Jeremy's track alignment.

jerrah · Postby **jerrah** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:14 pm

This is by no means a validation of my alignment figures.

Aligner said I was previously f -2.5 r -3.7 (unsure of other values)

New front camber -2.0, caster 4, toe 0. Rear -2.1 toe 0. Apparently -2.1 was the minimum rear camber that could be achieved.

Car felt rock solid stable at Lakeside yesterday, less flighty and easy to catch when it started to let go. Could get on the power with confidence out of the corners. At the end of the day I felt like the handling exceeded my bravery and I could have gone faster in the bends. Tyre wear seemed even and my RE001's seemed to be working quite well.

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:45 pm

Zero toe at the rear :shock:

I always thought a bit of toe in at the rear was preferable, I run 0.5mm toe in each side. I'm surprised it's stable with that, although spring, shock and sway bar set up couple alter how it all works and really an alignment should compliment the set up you have with them.

Otherwise sounds about the same as mine except my castor is around 5.5 and I run -2.1f and -2.3r.

Guran · Postby **Guran** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:53 pm

I've been running with zero toe front and rear for the last few years. No problems at all.

I also have about one degree more camber on the rear than the front.

I suspect the concerns raised previously with zero toe on the rear apply to NCs rather than NAs / NBs.

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:23 pm

Interesting, I've always been led to believe that having a little toe in at the rear (although not too much) is good for high speed stability on the faster corners. It comes down to the individual car i guess, mine is quite stiff at the rear due to shocks and sways I'm running.

jerrah · Postby **jerrah** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:32 pm

My car has Koni Yellow's, King springs, Racing beat hollow front and solid rear swaybars.

With the previous setup it would understeer off throttle and oversteer on power, now it just tracks where I point it with a very slight oversteer on the throttle.

I had a bit of a shake at 170km/h but I think one of my wheel weights has come off.

Guran · Postby **Guran** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:35 pm

High speed stability? No problems here with sustained 165km/hr through Eastern Creek turn 1. :lol:

That's with stock suspension so there's plenty of compliance and roll.

timk · Postby **timk** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 2:49 pm

My alignment is pretty much the same as your Jeremy (slightly less negative camber but zero toe and same caster), and it felt very solid!

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:19 pm

Again interesting. I might give zero toe at the rear a go next wheel alignment and see how it feels...
Although I don't struggle with understeer, you wouldn't really want the back end any less planted than it is (the car is a little loose at a speedo indicated 180 through turn one at Phillip Island) and the setup I run is backed up by some decent lap times.

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:10 pm

Rear toe in works because when your cornering hard for example; to the right. The left hand front and rear wheels have far more grip than the right hand wheels. As a result with the left hand rear wheel pointing a little to the right, the car doesnt pivot around the back as much, kind of like 4 wheel steering.

0.5mm of toe in wont ever be felt. I used to run 8mm rear toe out until I couldnt afford the tyres. It made it super fun at motorkhanas.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:24 pm

The spec miata guys all run 0.0 F/R.

And yeah, until 200rwhp nas and Bs are faster with zero toe due to frictional losses.

Dann

Charlie Brown · Postby **Charlie Brown** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 11:35 pm

Guran wrote:I've been running with zero toe front and rear for the last few years. No problems at all. I also have about one degree more camber on the rear than the front.

I suspect the concerns raised previously with zero toe on the rear apply to NCs rather than NAs / NBs.

Without giving too much away, I'm running zero rear toe at the moment. I set it up this way for Phillip Island in December to reduce drag down the long straights. I also adjusted the rear bar to compensate for the stability change.

But and that should read a big BUT, you must have confidence in your ability to deal with a rear end that wants to skip and move around a lot under brakes and through high speed corners. You can get caught out if you're not careful, so unless you have plenty of track experience I'd suggest that you stick with a little toe in, no matter what model you drive.