Hi all
After advise again. I've noticed my NA6 steering feels just a little odd.
If I centre the wheel I can kind off turn a few inches left and right with a slight clunk at the end of each direction.
If that makes any sense :p
Once I go past that point either left of right it's normal. Under normal driving I do not seem to notice it.
But it's quite noticeable stationary and swiveling the steering wheel left and right those few inches.
After a bit of a search I found that some people seem to adjust the large silver bolt at the bottom of the steering rack. Tighten in 1/4 of a turn.
Also the car is NON-POWer steering if that means anything?
Any advise, things to look at much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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Steering play/clunk NA6
Moderators: timk, Stu, zombie, Andrew, -alex, miata
- Dweezle
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:51 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Steering play/clunk NA6
ALL MUSCLE CARS ARE CRAP
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
- zossy1
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 1979
- Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:48 am
- Vehicle: NA8
- Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
- Contact:
Re: Steering play/clunk NA6
Hi Dee,
There are several moving parts in play in your steering. Those that can generally develop play are:
1. Universal joint between column and rack;
2. The rack itself; and
3. The tie rod ends.
Best way to diagnose is to jack up the front, pull off the plastic undertray and get a helper. Have helper move the wheel slightly while you crawl under the car and observe.
If the column moves but the end of the uni doesn't, then the uni is buggered. Replace.
If the uni moves the rack input shaft but the rack arms don't move, the rack is at fault. There is an adjustment procedure - this might help, or try searching m.net:
http://forum.specmiata.com/cgi-bin/ulti ... 003521;p=0
Otherwise a new rack may be in order.
If the rack ends move but the wheels do not, or you can wobble the wheels by hand without moving the tie rods appreciably, then the tie rod ends are stuffed.
Good luck!
There are several moving parts in play in your steering. Those that can generally develop play are:
1. Universal joint between column and rack;
2. The rack itself; and
3. The tie rod ends.
Best way to diagnose is to jack up the front, pull off the plastic undertray and get a helper. Have helper move the wheel slightly while you crawl under the car and observe.
If the column moves but the end of the uni doesn't, then the uni is buggered. Replace.
If the uni moves the rack input shaft but the rack arms don't move, the rack is at fault. There is an adjustment procedure - this might help, or try searching m.net:
http://forum.specmiata.com/cgi-bin/ulti ... 003521;p=0
Otherwise a new rack may be in order.
If the rack ends move but the wheels do not, or you can wobble the wheels by hand without moving the tie rods appreciably, then the tie rod ends are stuffed.
Good luck!
- Dweezle
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:51 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Steering play/clunk NA6
Mate.. I love you!! Haha
I will get in the garage tonight with my female helper..
Great explanation of things to check.
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I will get in the garage tonight with my female helper..
Great explanation of things to check.
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ALL MUSCLE CARS ARE CRAP
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
- Dweezle
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:51 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Re: Steering play/clunk NA6
ok.. so got the undertray off this morning and with a helper had a look at the steering shaft.
Please excuse my bad drawing but i think its my easiest way to explain it.
The main shaft from the steering wheel turns when i move the wheel slightly left and right, but something seems to be not working inside the bottom bit where the horizontal shafts come out.
Once i turn more than an inch say, it all fells good and normal. Just like there is a little bit of slack there?
guess i will prob have to go to a specialist
Been so happy with doing everything myself. Havent had to see a dodgy mechanic for 3 years now!!
Please excuse my bad drawing but i think its my easiest way to explain it.
The main shaft from the steering wheel turns when i move the wheel slightly left and right, but something seems to be not working inside the bottom bit where the horizontal shafts come out.
Once i turn more than an inch say, it all fells good and normal. Just like there is a little bit of slack there?
guess i will prob have to go to a specialist
Been so happy with doing everything myself. Havent had to see a dodgy mechanic for 3 years now!!
ALL MUSCLE CARS ARE CRAP
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
- zossy1
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 1979
- Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:48 am
- Vehicle: NA8
- Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
- Contact:
Re: Steering play/clunk NA6
Yep, that's the steering rack. You have some play in there.
Manual or power steering?
Try this:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php? ... ostcount=7
Otherwise, Boyracer is wrecking an NA8 right now that may have a decent rack - I'm sure he'll be good to you
Manual rack change is an easy job... Loose and remove uni (2 bolts), drop tie rods (2 split pins and nuts, and a few hard wraps with a hammer (NOT on the thread shaft of the tie rod, but on the casing of the holders), and then remove the 4 bolts holding the rack to the crossmember. For PS rack, you need to drop and change the hydraulic lines which complicates things a little more.
Manual or power steering?
Try this:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php? ... ostcount=7
Otherwise, Boyracer is wrecking an NA8 right now that may have a decent rack - I'm sure he'll be good to you
Manual rack change is an easy job... Loose and remove uni (2 bolts), drop tie rods (2 split pins and nuts, and a few hard wraps with a hammer (NOT on the thread shaft of the tie rod, but on the casing of the holders), and then remove the 4 bolts holding the rack to the crossmember. For PS rack, you need to drop and change the hydraulic lines which complicates things a little more.
- Dweezle
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:51 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Sydney
Re: Steering play/clunk NA6
OK.. prob solved!!
Took the car to a a Steering/wheel specialist in Alexandria, right near my work.
The guy there had a long look and decided it was the uni joint.
He then informed me you can not get parts for these cars anymore..
So I said thanks and left.
Called Mania about an hour later, explained it to them and Dave said he would check it out for me if I bring the car around.
Made it there this morning, to there snazzy new premises.
After approximately 45 seconds it was fixed haha.
Turns out one small bolt under the uni joint had loosened allowing some free play.
Fixed for a huge total of $0
THANKS GUYS!!
Took the car to a a Steering/wheel specialist in Alexandria, right near my work.
The guy there had a long look and decided it was the uni joint.
He then informed me you can not get parts for these cars anymore..
So I said thanks and left.
Called Mania about an hour later, explained it to them and Dave said he would check it out for me if I bring the car around.
Made it there this morning, to there snazzy new premises.
After approximately 45 seconds it was fixed haha.
Turns out one small bolt under the uni joint had loosened allowing some free play.
Fixed for a huge total of $0
THANKS GUYS!!
ALL MUSCLE CARS ARE CRAP
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
Jeremy Clarkson
except of course, the Almighty VIPER!!!!
-
- Forum Guru
- Posts: 4897
- Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:27 pm
- Vehicle: NA8
- Location: Moruya, NSW
Re: Steering play/clunk NA6
All problems should be so easy.
It does show the value of listening to your car and acting on anything suspect, especially anything to do with steering, brakes and front suspension. Early action can make the repair much cheaper and you're also much less liable to hit nasty big things at high speed.
It does show the value of listening to your car and acting on anything suspect, especially anything to do with steering, brakes and front suspension. Early action can make the repair much cheaper and you're also much less liable to hit nasty big things at high speed.
’95 NA8
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