Just discovered where my water was going

snshami · Postby **snshami** » Fri Mar 18, 2011 12:03 am

Mr Morlock wrote:I thought snashami worked in the auto industry- don't the engineers know these things. All these questions are just absolute basic stuff. Some of us just owned bombs when young and had to do repair things and picked up some info on the journey- I think very hard these days as to whether it is worth the hassle of diy and technology has moved on. Anyone thinking about DIY has to buy a repair manual and do some reading and knowledge will never come overnight.

OEM is generally the safest route for parts but maybe a reputable maker does a aftermarket unit. OEM units are designed for the car and they work and everything will bolt up correctly etc. The MX5 factory is not far from Doreen and they are a source of info and pricing etc.

If a radiator gives a prob them take it to a repairer and ask questions of the experts and get quotes etc. For many just paying to get something done is best esp if you do not have the tools the facilities or basic knowledge. Even changing a radiator can end up with a system which is not refilled correctly and then overheats which can be disastrous- but a manual like Haynes should give pointers.

Mr Morlock, we don't have to converse in 3rd person. You can address me directly

Yes I do work in the auto industry actually for an OEM manufacturer in Product Development. As you can imagine the field of automobiles is extremely broad. Just because you can design and develop something doesn't mean you can necessarily repair something. Also different cars are different. I once changed a radiator on a Mercedes but you can literally have a part under a Mercedes while an MX-5 is far lower. For instance I can't squeeze my head under most parts of the MX-5 even while it is sideways. On the Mercedes I could. I don't have ramps or stands so access becomes an issue, hence my question. You can then hopefully understand where the rest of my questions are coming from without me having to provide an in-depth analysis of each.

Basically I was doing a cost benefit analysis of getting the work done by someone else vs doing it myself and using the money saved to buy some more equipment that I don't presently have.

I am also a cautious person so I like arming myself with more information rather than less.

rossint · Postby **rossint** » Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:26 am

I got the top tank replaced on my Forester last Wednesday, I was going to take the radiator out myself but at the end of the day it was easier to pay the money and get the radiator shop to do the whole thing. I'm busy at the moment and it's less downtime for my wife who uses the car the most.
I replaced the radiator on my MX5 myself, it's a pretty easy job but you really need to get the car up on stands to drain the radiator and get the bottom hose off.

taminga16 · Postby **taminga16** » Fri Mar 18, 2011 10:45 am

Hami,
Check out Wazman's Garage thread, I seem to recall that he replaced a radiator and his descriptions were very clear.
Look also at an aftermarket performance unit, more bang for you buck.
Greg.

Edit. Check the MX5 Centre (Melb) website they have all and you can make an informed judgement.

DaveWA · Postby **DaveWA** » Fri Mar 18, 2011 3:39 pm

Easy job, just take your time if you are anxious

see the attached article from Miata.net for a step by step

http://www.miata.net/garage/radiator/index.html

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Fri Mar 18, 2011 7:06 pm

taminga16 wrote:Edit. Check the MX5 Centre (Melb) website they have all and you can make an informed judgement.

even just give James a call at the shop and ask what he thinks, he should be able to help you.

snshami · Postby **snshami** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 12:36 pm

I ended up taking just getting the top tank replaced along with a proper clean and a new O ring from the local ADRAD place. The top tank is a locally made part.

He pressure tested the radiator before and after. The before pressure test split the top tank completely.

What I learned from this is that if your top tank is greenish/brownish in colour then do not make any long trips away from home without getting your top tank replaced.

taminga16 · Postby **taminga16** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:21 pm

snshami wrote:I ended up taking just getting the top tank replaced along with a proper clean and a new O ring from the local ADRAD place. The top tank is a locally made part.

He pressure tested the radiator before and after. The before pressure test split the top tank completely.

What I learned from this is that if your top tank is greenish/brownish in colour then do not make any long trips away from home without getting your top tank replaced.

Hi hami,
What was the cost of the above works? I feel sure that people would like to weigh the price of your fix against a replacement radiator.
Greg.

snshami · Postby **snshami** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:16 pm

The price difference was $100.00

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 8:11 pm

price diff - gear knob and a slab of light

snshami · Postby **snshami** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:28 pm

Mr Morlock wrote:price diff - gear knob and a slab of light

Some people don't have that to throw away

pcmx5 · Postby **pcmx5** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:42 pm

So lets get this straight.The difference between supply and fitting a new radiator and fitting a new top to a 15 year old radiator is $100!!!

Not being smart but is that what you are saying?

Peter.

snshami · Postby **snshami** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:14 pm

pcmx5 wrote:So lets get this straight.The difference between supply and fitting a new radiator and fitting a new top to a 15 year old radiator is $100!!!

Not being smart but is that what you are saying?

Peter.

I drive my car at the most 5000km a year. I had the rest of the radiator fully checked by a professional with 25 years experience in the business. I am certain I will not need to change my "15 year old radiator" unless I want to.

The "want to" might come sooner rather than later. I am planning to start sprints next year and will be fitting a higher flow aluminium radiator before I do. Till then the $100 feels nice in my pocket.

There is actually a reason why top tanks fail and lower tanks do not.

The top tank temperature is significantly higher and secondly undergoes more temperature variations than the lower tank does. It therefore has a lower life expectancy. I have had heaps of older cars, many with plastic end tanks and the lower tank never ever failed.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:11 pm

we do read posts and the last bit of advice about radiatiors came from the bloke who said "I had never thought about getting the existing radiator repaired. Apparently a new top tank would cost $140 while a new one would cost $240. The 140 would only involve changing the top tank not the bottom one. According to the person I spoke to the lower tanks are never a problem."

My conclusion is that anything learned was very recent.

GP · Postby GP » Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:12 pm

So a new GENUINE MAZDA radiator for the mx5 costs $240? :shock:

Sounds hard to believe.

snshami · Postby **snshami** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:28 pm

Mr Morlock wrote:we do read posts and the last bit of advice about radiatiors came from the bloke who said "I had never thought about getting the existing radiator repaired. Apparently a new top tank would cost $140 while a new one would cost $240. The 140 would only involve changing the top tank not the bottom one. According to the person I spoke to the lower tanks are never a problem."

My conclusion is that anything learned was very recent.

Yes the information specific to MX-5s are very recent but it helped reinforce my overall longer term experience with other cars.