Replace passenger guard and door skin

zephyrus17 · Postby **zephyrus17** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:05 am

So I backed my car into a gate upright and so there's a giant scratch on the passenger door and the front fender. This local paint shop/panel beater told me it'll cost $1300 if I paid cash. They'd have to source both components and the fender itself is $340. Then repaint it because it's not white, then attach it on, etc. How easy is it to do by myself? I'll upload some pictures of the damage after work.

Steampunk · Postby **Steampunk** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:13 am

Not 100% sure if the door has a panel, but I don't think so. I'd think its cheaper to find a whole door to replace.
The front quarter panel can be removed/replaced quite easily.

mazdatenfive · Postby **mazdatenfive** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:29 am

Emailed

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:50 pm

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:36 pm

Get quotes from alternative sources. Painting looks easy but it is not especially if you have no experience and equipment.At least if it is white it is not a metallic colour and I do not think a clear coat is required- but you still have to get the right colour. If you do not require a perfect job then there is more wriggle factor and you might even try spray cans for painting

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:11 pm

zephyrus17 wrote:So I backed my car into a gate upright and so there's a giant scratch on the passenger door and the front fender. This local paint shop/panel beater told me it'll cost $1300 if I paid cash. They'd have to source both components and the fender itself is $340. Then repaint it because it's not white, then attach it on, etc. How easy is it to do by myself? I'll upload some pictures of the damage after work.

As a guide, painting is about $300 per panel.

zephyrus17 · Postby **zephyrus17** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 8:55 am

Well, I checked with a paint/panel place nearby and they quoted me $1450 w/ gst

$350 to get the guard (had to source it from second hand), $300 to paint the guard (since it's not white), $180 to remove the bumper, $200 to remove the guard and put the new one on, then $340 to remove door, etc etc.. That's almost 25% of what the car is worth.

I was bidding for a guard on ebay, but lost the bid while I was driving. I arrived at the office 2 minutes after it ended. Lost by $1. Urgh

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:08 pm

Ok you are doing well- checking around. You are probably better with a new guard as anything 2nd hand can requiring finishing and that costs money- often higher cost than starting with a new panel. Looks like the first quote is about right- try a few more. By the sound of it you have no comp insurance. Unfortunately panel work / painting is and always has been expensive. We all make little mistakes like backing into things we do not see.

zephyrus17 · Postby **zephyrus17** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:01 pm

I found a guy in Perth selling a brand new guard, but not painted for $100. I rang up some wreckers, and doors can be obtained for $200. Another seller has a new unpainted door shell for $300. I wouldn't mind getting these, since they're new, but would it be safe/*ok* to drive around for a while with a panel that has nothing but primer on it? I'm thinking of painting it myself ala Dodgy Haro with his "$50 paint job" idea

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:32 pm

sorry to hear about scratch if you wanna give it a go, "go for it" thought keep in mind its not for the faint hearted coming from an amatuer sprayer......

also as for leaving primer on from what i know its porous so not the best to leave for over 24 hours.

cheers

zephyrus17 · Postby **zephyrus17** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:10 pm

What is the Mazda primer made from? I've been looking at the Rustoleum paint and was wondering if it's compatible. This of course means that the moment I get the guard/door, I'd have to paint it.

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:47 pm

if you seriously want to paint you need to decide on which paint catalyst OR non catalyst IE 2pack or acrylic.

If you dont have access to a spray booth using 2pack is very dangerous to your health as there are no filters i know of that can filter the iso cyanates.

all in all google it up!

:):)

zephyrus17 · Postby **zephyrus17** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:02 pm

I have googled. And I'm definitely going to roll some enamel. Since Rustoleum cans (non-spray) aren't sold here, I think I'll go for the Tremclad or something similar than can paint onto metal. But this is into the future. First priority is to get the panels/door. I've tried to find guides to remove the door, but couldn't see any. Are there any special tools needed?

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:19 pm

If the car is white I would say it is a baked enamel probably without clear coat.DIY you cannot do a baked enamel but that is no impediment- you are not painting the whole car.

Painting diy - lots of info on how to eg library Haynes manuals articles etc. You go to an auto paint suppler and ask for a suitable primer ( probably a grey primer) and a top coat in your colour- they will probably give you an acrylic paint but whatever is supplied in a can for automotive purposes will be quick drying. Auto paint suppliers can provide all materials. They will tell you finishing technique ie gloss fine straight from the can or capable of being polished or finish with clear coat etc. Adel will definitely have good sources afterall it had so much car industry. There is no problem in priming - that is what primers are designed to do- ie provide a key for colour coats- grey primers have been used for decades- no need for fancy products. Painting well is all about preparation. You need prepsol clean rags etc ( they will tell you ) And I am no great painter!!

If you want to know what is the white paint system for OE someone like the MX5 factory in Melb will tell you. You are doing well - prepare by doing some reading and talk to the paint suppliers- my local guys are so helpful and yours probably will be as well.

aviper4u · Postby **aviper4u** » Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:04 am

you shouldnt need any special tools to remove a door though if you are going to do a few respray you will need to remove the rubber seals ec and that can be finicky...

1990 mx5 not sure what they used from the factory though for a repair i would be using acrylic and as is a flat colour you can skip the clear coat and just buff.

as for cans i dont have much experience though the interent is your friend.....