Wazman's NB8a

Postby **Okibi** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:56 pm

Great photos and explanations, hope to see the engine build pics too.

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:37 am

URGH !!!! i just noticed that where the intake bolts onto the front of the T28 is also at a different rotation ! mutter mutter grumble grumble :evil:

T28 proving not to be a simple "bolt on" replacment for the t25........

On the bright side, I dropped the goodies off to the B'n'B engines this morning to get the ball rolling and they said should be done by wed ! YAY!

Also these suckers turned up this morning.......they were on sale on ebay from flo flex....$224 aus, i payed for em on the 29th dec and they arrived on the 10th jan.

gobsmax · Postby **gobsmax** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:59 am

Let us know how the Flo_Flex are. I saw them on special for $99 pounds + shipping about a month ago but held back because I didn't know much about them.

rxmx · Postby **rxmx** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:02 am

Hey wazman, nice build mate, looking forward to see it complete again.
What sort of specs are on the valve springs and do they just drop in?
Suli,

MX51MN · Postby **MX51MN** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:57 pm

far i just spent a good hour reading the whole 19 page. exciting stuff man, hope to see more of this beast.
im envious, wish i can drive turbo.
keep up the awesome work.

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 11:12 pm

So two weeks ago i got all my stuff back from the motor machinest (B'n'B engines on westal rd).......
I'm sorry to all those that were hoping for a nut by nut build..... I got it all home and my house mate decided that he would help and went at it like a bull at a gate and i did not take any where near as many photo's as i might have liked....

He had the pistons in even before i could get the camera out of the house.

Eagle rods and Cp pistons all went in with no probs, 20 thou oversize.

big end caps are numbered and have an arrow thingy moulded into the casting that needs to point to the front of the motor on each one.
I didn't use "ACL race bearing as the machinest said they are over kill and more likely to damage the crank as it is not billet.....so i used normal ones that he supplied. You can see there is a sump oil drip collector thingy that goes on before the sump, stick that down first then the sump goes on after and sump bolts hold it all down.

The Cp pistons have valve relief cut into them in case you choose to run aggressive cams. Block was chem cleaned, bored, decked and reemed.

Get the crank and pistons in and torqued down (thanks Okibi) then make sure it turns relatively easily. I used engine building grease on all the bearings and cams.....When you get your block chem cleaned you have to put in new welsh plugs (the gold round thingys in the side of the block) I used a socket slightly smaller than each plug and tapped them gently into place until they were just a bee's dick bellow the surface of the block.

On goes the oil pump and sump, sealed with plenty of grey stuff! (engine silicon)

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:05 am

Before i pulled the motor out i drained the coolant into a bucket and this is where i put the water pump while the engine was pulled down! The reason for this is because the seals dry out if its not a new pump then the old seals shrink during the engine down time while not submerged in coolant! and it sucks when you get it all back in the car and driving and then it starts leaking !
shiny stuff !

Arp head stud kit went in.....there was some confussion as to what torque setting to use as some guy was saying in one thread i read somewhere that he managed to crush the bolt seat by torquing it to the Arp spec's !

i chose to do them to 75 with the arp lube..... cant see any cracks :mrgreen:

The sticky metal head gasket goo needs to be sprayed onto the head gasket before putting the head on..... both sides and wait the required time then slap her together !

Arp are American i presume because they use the stupid imperial system.......I fecked around for an hour looking for a stupid imperial allen key to screw the ARP studs in!

The buckets and shim's go into their respective sides.
I had the machinest check the valve seats and guids to make sure they were not wore bad..... all ok and he installed the performance valve springs because i dont have a spring compressor. The spring are just a higher rate than the originals....... more building grease on top of the buckets to prevent wear on start up while the oil takes its time to pump through the motor.

I did forget what order all the stuff went back on the front of the motor but i worked it out in the end.
I also fitted the adjustable cam gears at this stage.....

New "GATES" timing belt installed as well.

The cam saddles are torqued down and cam cover can go on with new gaskets everywhere

not the cleanest engine building shop you've ever seen ! lol but in the end it all worked out sweet !

On go the plenum and turbo kit....

These are the SARD 550's that i had installed previously.....but never showed a pic, so here it is. I had a problem on start up ! the injectors were leaking !!!
Turns out that the injector seals also shrink when not kept in contact with petrol !!! time for new injector seals

Here you can see the difference in the rotation of the intake bolt holes......time to cut and weld again !

In she goes and hook everything back up!

built and installed in 3 days......with excessive sleep in's involved !

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:18 am

After a run in up and down Mt dandenong and around the city a bit I took my sled down to Trent at CHECKERED TUNING (spelling) for a tune.
a couple of hours later and i had 190 rwkw's !!! but he didnt want to do the Cam gear tune until after more of a run in with the new power and the cam gears require some hard high rev runs..... He wanted me to thrash it around a bit as is to make sure its all good then will chuck it back on the dyno and get that elusive 200 rwkw mark that i want.

Postby **Okibi** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:07 am

Nice work! Bet it feels great to drive, can't wait to see the dyno sheets.

Si.G · Postby **Si.G** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 11:05 pm

Good work - I think you asked on garage thread about solid lifter, but since you are further along then me, where did you end up getting the lifters and shims from? I assume you had to go through the pain of test fitting, measuring and then working out the shim thinkness for each valve?

Also where did you get you oil pump from - not seen any on the usual sites?

Si.

Postby **Okibi** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 11:25 pm

Some bling here Si
http://boundaryengineering.com/drupal/node/34

RawSouth · Postby **RawSouth** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:17 pm

How is this beasty going? Time for an update please!

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:21 pm

Hi all,
Been a while since i've posted.
The T28 i fitted had a little to much shaft play and started to sing at full noise (thrashing) so i ditched it and bought what i was too tight to buy the first time!
a Garret 2871r with the small rear housing....... yay 220 rwkw with no cams.
Every thing just bolted straight up as this is the "two bolt" intake type. A direct swap for nissan s14- s15

Pic bellow is the the T28.......note the Bent fin :cry:

Some bushes are in....

New nardi deep corn 330mm and triple dice shifter that i got in Japan......New hydro handbrake lever too...stainless (dosn't flex)

Some thing ive wanted since i bought the car...... Roadster sill plates ! yay !

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:28 pm

and.......... i had a little mishap at the drift demo at the TOPGEAR LIVE FESTIVAL :roll:

It was a tight little track and one mistake and you had no where to go.......except up a gutter :cry:

Luckily i only bent the rear lower control arm bolt (the long one in the knuckle end) ....just replaced that and away i went.....lucky i have 3 sets of wheels to :roll:

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:42 pm

I got a new rear bumper.....JDM one with roadster badge......also big ugly JDM number plate hole......meh

For those of you that dont check the NB wheel pic thread......

With the 16's i was running 4.3 degrees of camber on the rear....... which ment that i would drift through a brand new pair of tyres in 4 laps at winton ! mainly just wearing the edges off though..leaving 60% tread in the middle that i would never touch.......
So on got the much less agressive 15x8 +25 sportmax thingys......( i forget their name).
Tyres are now 195 50 15 neuton's on the rear (they smoke like crazy, every drifter loves em)

I have straightened up the camber on the rear as much as the standard camb bolts will allow...... but i want neg 1deg of camber so i'll be modifying the rear arms soon....

I can also replace my munched front guards now without fear of the wheels/tyres catching them and pulling em in again...

old alloy vs new stainless hydro lever....

I tried to find my dyno sheet to post it up but i seem to have misplaced it.... stay tuned , i'll find it ....