building up the engine for more boost

[Steampunk]

I think what Sean meant is that as long as YOU are happy with the grunt, then dyno runs are almost academic.
Stick with the same dyno and regardless of the figure, if you see an improvement every time you modify it and tune it, then it's going in the right direction.

Your 168kW@wheels is, in my opinion, pretty awesome considering lowish-"high" boost and your fuel and igntion maps still need some tweaking.

The dyno that you have used sounds like it gives reliable, repeatable, and realistic figures. If you go down to Sydney and use a commonly used dyno, you'll more likely get more than 200kW (as Sean is alluding to), but does that mean your car has magically gained 32kW? No.

Remember also that this is a DIY job that we did over a long weekend too
To be honest, I am pleasantly surprised things have not gone POP

I think there are only two things you really need to do for the time being;
1) unlock your Haltech
2) take her to the track

[Novice1]

I think what Sean meant is that as long as YOU are happy with the grunt, then dyno runs are almost academic.
Stick with the same dyno and regardless of the figure, if you see an improvement every time you modify it and tune it, then it's going in the right direction.

Your 168kW@wheels is, in my opinion, pretty awesome considering lowish-"high" boost and your fuel and igntion maps still need some tweaking.

The dyno that you have used sounds like it gives reliable, repeatable, and realistic figures. If you go down to Sydney and use a commonly used dyno, you'll more likely get more than 200kW (as Sean is alluding to), but does that mean your car has magically gained 32kW? No.

Remember also that this is a DIY job that we did over a long weekend too
To be honest, I am pleasantly surprised things have not gone POP

I think there are only two things you really need to do for the time being;
1) unlock your Haltech
2) take her to the track

I, am planning on getting the haltech unlocked next week. Tossup between whether Danny at virginia will do same or mechanic near to me does same. Aftermarket temperature gauge going in also as well as adjustment for seatbelt to go through holes on sparco sprint. Car as had new espelir springs put in also making it much more enyoyable to drive on qld's not so smooth roads.
Last dyno 172kw atw but car not as smooth in its delivery as earlier tune of 168kw atw.All tuning I have had done. noone has been able to get the car to restart when warm consistently first time. ??? the cams.
Re the car not going pop I am surprised too. however 99.9 percent of the time its running on low boost and I NEVER ever gun it on low or high boost in first gear.I very rarely see the shift light come on at 6000rpm in any gear thus I must be changing before same. The only time I ever remember anyone gunning it on high boost in first gear was Crapweasel driving and we both nearly wet ourselves.
Until I am happy that car as no overheating problems it won't see the track.
Next tune I will possibly turn down the high boost to 10psi as I very rareely use high boost anyway
Cheers Novice1

[mx52nv]

MX52NV where art thou?

Hi Andrew, I am right here!
For some reason though, I entirely missed this thread.

Anyway, I agree with most of what CT has said about the build up. I am doing mine as we speak, the way I have always wanted to - on a second engine to minimise 'down time'.

Without giving away all my secrets - the key aspects to making "usable" power is the choice of turbo & manifold, compression ratio, fuel system, exhaust and tuning (engine management). I would 'over-engineer' everything if budget allows.

200rwkw on a Dyno Dynamics Dynometer in ShootOut mode is attainable for B6 engines and BP motors are now regularly reaching 250rwkw without much hassle (speaking from experience). Hence 200rwkw on your NB8 BP should be safely attainable with forged pistons and rods, bigger injectors and retune. The labour and machining will bear a larger cost than the parts involved though.

As most people have alluded, the drivetrain starts becoming the weak link in the chain. For instance, in BOYRCR's build, the engine and twin plate clutch are pretty "Gucci" stuff. Thus he has killed a number of 5 speed gearboxes both from torque and his shall we say "not so gentle" driving. As CT said, the SE gearbox is good but a normal 6 speed will do if you can not find the rare SE gearbox. Did not someone try to swap the SE gearset from Mazda into a stock 6 speed sometime ago? Anyone know if this succeeded?

Furthermore, the crown and pinion to the diff is also a weak link and most times will 'give up the ghost' before the actual diff or diff housing explodes. Apparently, the Mazda E series vans have a stronger crown and pinion and different ratios so you could pick up a cheap modificaton there. However, this is unsubstantiated (to me) at the time of typing.

You mention a problem with starting when the car is warm. I am assuming that the coils packs and leads have been swapped with a friend's NB8 to eliminate the obvious? Did you leave the car with the tuner with sufficient amount of time and specific instructions to eliminate this particular problem? Failing the above, get a NA8 starter and retune?

Anyway, I feel I have digressed a little from the original question but nonetheless I hope I have contributed somewhat to this thread.

Les

[Steampunk]

Jinkeez Les... better late than never as the saying goes eh?
Good to hear that SE parts are fairly robust.

[Novice1]

Haltech tune unlocked. Car retuned by Western Suburbs sinnamon park. Its brilliant to drive now with so much more torque and no jerkiness in delivery. Love it, love it, love it.
Cheers Novice1

[93_Clubman]

Good to hear Ron - Finally unlocked it's POWER!

[Novice1]

[quote="93_Clubman"]Good to hear Ron - Finally unlocked it's POWER![/quote

At 3000 revs 275 Newton Metres. At 5380 revs 383 Newton metres. Its delicious.

Cheers Novice1

[wazman]

Dose the BP 1.8 not have double valve springs standard ??

I am about to rebuild my motor as well and the engine machinist recommended up grading the valve spring as i wish to raise the rev limit.....I'm also looking for the 200rwkw mark..... rocking 153 at my last tune.... silvia's with 260 are pulling away from me mid corner and leaving a wall of tyre smoke.....

Which brand of valve springs is best suited to turbo setups....... i only intend on running adjustable cam gears with standard cams.

Also can someone direct me to the engine manual .....or a link to download it from ?

any help appreciated.

[wazman]

Thanks for the links ! The flyin miata kit is nice but a little budget blowout ....

My pistons & rods havn't turned up from the states yet so i have to wait until after xmas to play motors

Ill keep my build thread updated as i go....

[rxmx]

you can get eibach valve springs that drop in with the factory retainers for about half the price.
Cant comment on how good they are havnt used them, just thought id mention them as they are a cheaper alternative.