TCR wrote:Good to see another DL1 user in Oz.
Just hooked up my Dash 3 last week and am set to give it a run at Morgan Park this weekend. There's two of us sharing the car this weekend as part of the 1Hr race, so it'll be good to have some data from another driver for comparison.
I see you on the racetech forum - thats a great resource! If and when you get your TPS connected, feel free to share with me the details of how you did it.
Come to think of it, PM me your email addy and I will scan and send you a coupla pics from the Competition Datalogger Book - it doesnt tell you how to put it in, just some photos of it. The book is priceless for allowing you to use the data - as it says - capturing it is the easy part, interpreting it is the hard part.
Funnily enough its british and while purposefully generic its largely written around the DL device No doubt expensive if bought in australia, but i bought it from amazon US and it was fantastic. This is the same book that you see for sale on the racetech website.
Dont forget to have 2 different CF cards - one for each of you, that way you can keep your data separated and it will correspond well together - each of you will have RUN_(date_time)_1 for your first session etc rather than having 1 CF card so your mates first session will be #1 and yours will be #2 - can get confusing quickly. Write your names on them or at least number them and make sure that the timezone is set correctly so you have an idea of when each run was - otherwise you will be racing at midnight in 2071 according to the GPS satellites
CF cards are cheap as and can be had at any dedicated photography store. Buy the slowest one you can to save money - the DL is outputting a tiny data file and speed only comes into it with cameras that try to transfer 2x 10 meg files for each frame they take, at 7 frames a second. A 2gig one will give you hours or even days of logging. Sandisk is my favourite brand - i use em in my SLR and video cameras as well as my DL and no I dont work for em ;)
Another fun trick I took to is setting up auto logging on above 10km/h and off below 10km/h. This means that when I spin and stall it, then turn the key to restart I dont corrupt my data file as it has already stopped and saved it. Ask me how I know this is important
Also if you are going to use remote indication and control there is a fantastic momentary switch with integrated LED that is sold by RS Components. Its not a jaycar cheapie and has no sharp edges, looks like it was designed for the purpose. Looking at its specs it would not be uncomfortable in an F1 car. - Im so impressed wiht it that Im going to get a set of them for steering wheel control when I get my Dash2