Heya everyone,
My car is so close to being started for the first time since rebuild but I am not getting any spark. At first I wasn't getting any fuel so I checked the main relay and it was shot so since replacing it now the fuel pump is activating fine but im not getting any spark. I am getting 12v at the cas and there is also a pulse from the cas when you kick the car over. The injectors have 12v and so does the Ignitor. After reading up on some of Juffa's old posts I'm thinking of replacing the ignitor next, but before I do that can anyone reccomend anything else to check? It does spark once upon turning the reds on and then nothing when you kick the car over... Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Not getting any spark...
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- Fast Driver
- Posts: 338
- Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 11:43 pm
- Vehicle: NA6 - Turbo
- Location: Sydney
Not getting any spark...
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EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
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- Speed Racer
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Not getting any spark...
coilpacks were a bit of a weak point on the early na6s at least, & there have been a couple of ECU problems on na8s of late. some problem coilpacks were evident from arcing inside one or more of the HT lead posts, & some problem ECUs from a burntout component.
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- Location: Moruya, NSW
Not getting any spark...
Earth straps OK? Not sure about the NA6 but on the NA8 there's one from the block near the dipstick to the firewall and another set connecting below the front of the inlet manifold. That front set has been implicated in random spark and fuel problems.
’95 NA8
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- Fast Driver
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Not getting any spark...
Thanks for the replies,
93_Clubman, I will keep this in mind, I am just hoping to eliminate any other possible causes before I get into having to replace ecm or coils. Just to confirm its an NA6 with NA8 conversion. And prev. owner somehow piggy backed a Motec M4 to a standard NA6 ecm. I have both the M4 and NA6 ecm under the kick panel, worked fine with the supercharged setup. Does anyone know if there is a way to check the ignitor without replacing it?
manga_blue, I have an NA8 conversion in my NA6, I have the earth strap connected at the block next to dipstick but do not have anything near or under the front of the inlet manifold. I have a few smaller earth lines bolted onto the rear of the NA8 inlet manifold with a 10mm bolt, am i missing a earth strap?
93_Clubman, I will keep this in mind, I am just hoping to eliminate any other possible causes before I get into having to replace ecm or coils. Just to confirm its an NA6 with NA8 conversion. And prev. owner somehow piggy backed a Motec M4 to a standard NA6 ecm. I have both the M4 and NA6 ecm under the kick panel, worked fine with the supercharged setup. Does anyone know if there is a way to check the ignitor without replacing it?
manga_blue, I have an NA8 conversion in my NA6, I have the earth strap connected at the block next to dipstick but do not have anything near or under the front of the inlet manifold. I have a few smaller earth lines bolted onto the rear of the NA8 inlet manifold with a 10mm bolt, am i missing a earth strap?
http://www.facebook.com/purefabcustom
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
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- Speed Racer
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Not getting any spark...
rxmx wrote:Does anyone know if there is a way to check the ignitor without replacing it?
I'm not sure if there is, but from the look of Juffa's ignitor fault finding at the page below it would seem that there isn't:
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=17269&p=204068
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Not getting any spark...
rxmx wrote:I have a few smaller earth lines bolted onto the rear of the NA8 inlet manifold with a 10mm bolt, am i missing a earth strap?
I've got this set on the front as well. 3 small black wires (1 pair and one single). That's the throttle body on top left.
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’95 NA8
- SuperMazdaKart
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Not getting any spark...
Hey manga_blue, thanks for the pic. I cannot recall seeing those wires on the front near the inlet mani, even before I went turbo. I will check it again thoroughly when I get the car back this week, just having the rest of the exhaust fabbed up.
SuperMazdaKart, yah I will see if anyone is willing to help out. On that note if anyone can help sort this out, I am happy to pay someone. I don't really wanna be towing the car all over the place and I'm eager to get the thing running. So If anyone can help please message or PM me.
Thanks again for teh replies,
SuperMazdaKart, yah I will see if anyone is willing to help out. On that note if anyone can help sort this out, I am happy to pay someone. I don't really wanna be towing the car all over the place and I'm eager to get the thing running. So If anyone can help please message or PM me.
Thanks again for teh replies,
http://www.facebook.com/purefabcustom
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
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- Fast Driver
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- Vehicle: NA6 - Turbo
- Location: Sydney
Re: Not getting any spark...
Quick Update:
After checking all the earth straps, I eneded up changing the Ignitor and problem solved . I was getting spark and all was good but then wasnt getting fuel although the fuel pump was turning on fine. We checked the voltage on the injectors all seemed fine and we were getting a pulse upon cranking the engine but still wasnt starting. Took the plugs out and they were clean as with no sign of fuel. Checked for fuel pressure and pressure was plenty. There was plenty of pressure pre oem fpr but nothing coming from the return line to the afpr so i swapped them over and she started straight away . What a feeling, its been a long 7-8 months,
now my question is, I have an illustration of how it was prior to changing the lines over and how it is now. Can you guys please advise on which is the most appropriate way of having the lines setup? Does this mean that the oem fpr is faulty as it wasnt allowing any fuel through to the rail? Can anyone shed any light on this please.
Old setup - was like this for a long time with the supercharger setup.
Current -
Thanks again,
After checking all the earth straps, I eneded up changing the Ignitor and problem solved . I was getting spark and all was good but then wasnt getting fuel although the fuel pump was turning on fine. We checked the voltage on the injectors all seemed fine and we were getting a pulse upon cranking the engine but still wasnt starting. Took the plugs out and they were clean as with no sign of fuel. Checked for fuel pressure and pressure was plenty. There was plenty of pressure pre oem fpr but nothing coming from the return line to the afpr so i swapped them over and she started straight away . What a feeling, its been a long 7-8 months,
now my question is, I have an illustration of how it was prior to changing the lines over and how it is now. Can you guys please advise on which is the most appropriate way of having the lines setup? Does this mean that the oem fpr is faulty as it wasnt allowing any fuel through to the rail? Can anyone shed any light on this please.
Old setup - was like this for a long time with the supercharger setup.
Current -
Thanks again,
http://www.facebook.com/purefabcustom
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Not getting any spark...
Jackson Racing Supercharger Installation Instructions (999-100.pdf revised 05/02)
QUOTE
4.6 Install the Air/Fuel Regulator by first
removing the cylindrical black plastic evaporative
canister on the right side of the engine
compartment from its vertical mounting brace.
This is performed by simply sliding the canister
upward to remove it. There is a small hole
in the brace through which will pass a 6 mm
bolt with a 10mm head to fasten the mounting
clamp of the Air/Fuel Regulator. Mount the
AFR to the brace after connecting the fuel
lines. Locate the flexible fuel line attached to
the REAR (towards the windshield) of the
metal fuel rail that connects the Fuel injectors.
Follow this fuel line to the rigid pipe just below
the Evap. canister; this pipe will be marked
with either a white spot or stripe. Disconnect
the flexible fuel line from the rigid pipe and
connect it to the offset brass barb on the bottom
of the A/F regulator. Connect a new piece
of fuel line to the remaining center brass barb
and to the rigid pipe with the white mark, this
can be achieved by making a large gentle
curve between the two connections. Insure
there are no kinks to obstruct fuel flow in any
of these lines. Install the vacuum signal hose
to the cruise control nipple located just behind
the dummy throttle body. If your car has cruise
control, use a plastic vacuum “Tee” fitting to
tap into this line. Attach the other end of the
vacuum signal hose to the nipple on the top
portion of the AFR. After making all connections
and mounting the AFR Reinstall the
Evap. Canister by sliding it back on it’s mounting
brace.
UNQUOTE
See diagram in attached doc:
QUOTE
4.6 Install the Air/Fuel Regulator by first
removing the cylindrical black plastic evaporative
canister on the right side of the engine
compartment from its vertical mounting brace.
This is performed by simply sliding the canister
upward to remove it. There is a small hole
in the brace through which will pass a 6 mm
bolt with a 10mm head to fasten the mounting
clamp of the Air/Fuel Regulator. Mount the
AFR to the brace after connecting the fuel
lines. Locate the flexible fuel line attached to
the REAR (towards the windshield) of the
metal fuel rail that connects the Fuel injectors.
Follow this fuel line to the rigid pipe just below
the Evap. canister; this pipe will be marked
with either a white spot or stripe. Disconnect
the flexible fuel line from the rigid pipe and
connect it to the offset brass barb on the bottom
of the A/F regulator. Connect a new piece
of fuel line to the remaining center brass barb
and to the rigid pipe with the white mark, this
can be achieved by making a large gentle
curve between the two connections. Insure
there are no kinks to obstruct fuel flow in any
of these lines. Install the vacuum signal hose
to the cruise control nipple located just behind
the dummy throttle body. If your car has cruise
control, use a plastic vacuum “Tee” fitting to
tap into this line. Attach the other end of the
vacuum signal hose to the nipple on the top
portion of the AFR. After making all connections
and mounting the AFR Reinstall the
Evap. Canister by sliding it back on it’s mounting
brace.
UNQUOTE
See diagram in attached doc:
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- Fast Driver
- Posts: 338
- Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 11:43 pm
- Vehicle: NA6 - Turbo
- Location: Sydney
Re: Not getting any spark...
Thanks for that, thats exactly what iv'e done.
http://www.facebook.com/purefabcustom
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
EFR6758 run-in tune 259hp atw on 10psi pump 98 dyno dynamics
E85 tune - 445hp @ wheels 17psi
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