Anyone Got a high spec NA6 N/A engine

[Si.G]

Thanks guys, this is exactly what I am after.

I am not searching for massive power, I would go for a turbo, or just get a different car if that was the plan, I just wanted to know that there is the potential I thought there should be in the 1.6 engine. 106kw is good power for the mods - I would be happy with that power, but it also indicates that you should be able to get more too with further mods

So I am pretty sure I am going to stay with the 1.6.

FYI - I took the cam cover off of my engine a couple of days ago and it looks very clean inside. But then again, I don't know if it is the original engine anyway. I guess I should check if it is a long or short nose crank, if it is short, I guess I should get a high kms long nose JDM engine to rebuild.

Si.

[whoa_dang_96]

I think you will find that Power Kw (DIN) on that dydno is not true rear wheel power - but sort of like derived torque on a Mainline Dyno where it is "corrected" by the software and since DIN is usually measured at the engine on an engine dyno i have my doubts it is rear wheel actual but more like "derived flywheel power"

from wikipaedia
DIN horsepower
DIN horsepower is the power measurement protocol in the German DIN standard 70020. It is sometimes abbreviated as PS, which stands for Pferdestärke, which is the German word for horsepower. DIN hp is measured at the engine's output shaft, and is usually expressed in metric (Pferdestärke) rather than mechanical horsepower.

I have seen a power run where the graph was on Power (DIN) 186kw, and that same afternoon the car was put on a Mainline Dyno and it only had 135ish rwKW (185ish rwhp), thinking there was a problem car was takenback to other dyno and tested the same 186 (DIN)Kw - changed the power unit from DIN power to kw power and the reart wheel output figures were more comparable.

STM - maybe too much crotch holding - either get a dyno run as raw power - or take it to a differnt dyno for a test and then post up how much it has.

The lessen here - Dont always assume that all dyno's read the same - there are variances between equipment and manufactures and dyon settings - you need to compare apples with apples

[tbro]

Si,
Don't know if you would call Scooter a high spec motor but here is a run down on what I've done on the engine refresh.

Clean and have block tunnel checked and deck height done to suit tunnel bore, surprising how far out my block was.
Crank deburred, shot peened and balanced, new rods as the cost to go the full hog with the std rods was only a bit cheaper.
Clean up all the burrs in the sump, splash tray etc, not for horse power but the quicker the oil returns to the pickup the better.
Generally the b6 motor is a pretty sturdy motor just needs a bit of a clean up that you would generally do.
Where you WILL make horsepower is the cylinder head, but at a cost, the more money the better the horse power.
ITB's won't make horsepower,but give you quicker throttle response through corners. Is it worth it? I sold mine as it would put me into 2B class. Better spending the money on the head.
Cams are a quick horsepower add on, but only if fitted properly and dialed in properly, PIA job to do but worth it.
Lightened NB6 flywheel machined down to 10.4 lbs is a good move, or if your class allows Toga race flywheel at 9 lbs is even better.

So as I've found out the more your willing to spend the better your engine.
I've posted up the rebuild in the Garage Section.
Terry

[owm]

Just re-built my 280k km 1.6L and am achieving 130rwhp at 6800RPM (conservative tune and focus on good FC )

Details of my setup are:
1. FM 11:1 high comp pistons
2. HKS 1.6 cams
3. Cometic head gasket
4. ACL race bearings
5. Hydra EMS
6. Removed AFM
7. Stock exhaust manifold
8. Larini cat-back exhaust
9. Toda flywheel
10.Coolant re-route (to ensure optimum cooling for the 4th cylinder)

I have read that the highest power level for a built 1.6L (blueprinting internals, knife-edge crank, balancing, port n polish et all) is around 150rwhp?

[broady]

I have read that the highest power level for a built 1.6L (blueprinting internals, knife-edge crank, balancing, port n polish et all) is around 150rwhp?

for a street motor probably something like that. otherwise for full race motors should be able to get way more than that.

[Si.G]

Just re-built my 280k km 1.6L and am achieving 130rwhp at 6800RPM (conservative tune and focus on good FC )

Details of my setup are:
1. FM 11:1 high comp pistons
2. HKS 1.6 cams
3. Cometic head gasket
4. ACL race bearings
5. Hydra EMS
6. Removed AFM
7. Stock exhaust manifold
8. Larini cat-back exhaust
9. Toda flywheel
10.Coolant re-route (to ensure optimum cooling for the 4th cylinder)

I have read that the highest power level for a built 1.6L (blueprinting internals, knife-edge crank, balancing, port n polish et all) is around 150rwhp?

Thanks for that info, that gives me the confidence to stay with the 1.6. I think I would build something of a similar spec. I will probably go with some wilder cams because it is not a street car, but it is good to know the real life power that is possible, rather than just been thrown the 'get a 1.8' argument (which I don't totally disagree with before I get any back lash, its all a matter or budget and preference )

Si.

[owm]

You are welcome!

If you are looking at wilder cams, many of the US MX-5 owners have good things to say about http://www.integralcams.com/.

I think the most important part of the setup will be a good standalone ECU that can maximize all the goodies thrown in

[Si.G]

You are welcome!

If you are looking at wilder cams, many of the US MX-5 owners have good things to say about http://www.integralcams.com/.

I think the most important part of the setup will be a good standalone ECU that can maximize all the goodies thrown in

I am running a MS PnP with innovate wide band. I have a KnockSenseMS to but I have not wired it up yet.

I have heard mixed views about the MS, but I am really happy with it and have had no issues with it. So I am all set. I will check out the integralcams.
Si.