Broady's Montego "I can't believe it's not green" Blue NA8

[Guran]

The new seat looks great. I have no problem with my seatbelt buckle stalk on my NA6. It's long enough to stick out past the seat and gives access to the button. If you can find one it should do the trick for you.

[broady]

Awesome, Mania sell them brand new for ~ $80, so I should be able to get one with some vintage at a good price

Oh, where does the seatbelt thing mount on the NA6? is it the same place on the transmission tunnel? From the pictures of just the stalk that looks to be the case.

[Guran]

Here's the seat belt clasp showing between the seat and the tunnel


Here it is folded back showing the full length of the stalk. It's bolted into a mounting point on the transmission tunnel.


And this is the seat belt buckle ... just make sure yours is the same design so that it'll fit into the NA6 clasp

[broady]

Perfect! Same as mine. Although I've been buckling through the side holes, which straps me in really well, it looks like you don't do that. Might have to see what Mania can do.

[Guran]

Oh yeah, if anyone is kind enough to watch my video (if you go to youtube you can watch it in high def) and tell me where I can go faster I'd much appreciate it!

Finally got around to watching your videos. In addition to Mark's sage advice, there are a a few things I noticed that might help you, based on my 7 visits to Wakefield Park over the last year.

Turn 9 - You're backing off for this corner. Give it a try with your foot flat to the floor. If you start from the far left and drop a tyre onto the edge of the concrete just before turning, it'll help pivot the car towards the apex and then you should be able to hold full throttle all the way to the left ripple strip on exit. It's not necessary to start that wide, but I found it helps get used to the speed through this turn.

Turn 10 - You're braking very early. If you start braking at the 100m marker or just afterwards, and ease the pedal up to a firm shove (try not to lock up, but learning how to recognise that point might take one or two lock-ups), you will stop in time for the turn-in.

Turn 2 - Try taking this one in third gear rather than 2nd. Your car looks like it's unsettled by that shift down to 2nd and you're quickly running out of revs on the drive out. I'd also suggest you try turning in a little sooner and carry more speed through the corner by drifting all the way to the outside shoulder on exit.

Turn 3 - No braking required here, just a slight lift off the throttle before turning in. If you start with your tyres on the concrete just off the edge of the track, and turn in just where the concrete runs out. Aim to be in the middle of the track or two thirds over to the left at the exit.

Turn 4 - I find I need a quick dab on the brakes for this one, and aim to let the car drift right out to the top of the hill.

Turn 5 - Either a lift or a brake dab here and you could carry more speed through this turn. If you figure out how to do it, please let me know!

Turn 6 - Flat biscuit through here, no need for you to feather the throttle. I prefer to apex this one much earlier than the cone too. You can let the car drift out after the apex. and still be flat through the turn 7 kink.

Turn 8 - This one takes a lot of practice to get right, and I'm still a long way from understanding how best to tackle it. Just try to get on the throttle as soon as possible and let the car drift a bit if it wants to, aiming for the little side-road that goes off to the right. But don't drop a tyre onto the dirt - see my bloopers reel for an example of what happens!

One last suggestion is to practice your heal & toe on down changes. I could be wrong, but it sounds like you're just throwing it into gear and popping the clutch, resulting in compression lock and unsettles the car.

Hope this helps.

[broady]

Wow, that's a huge help Guran, and confirms my suspicions that I was braking on some corners where I don't need to (3 and 9). Wasn't sure about 6 at all since it's off camber.

I was heel/toeing but I think in a few instances (like for turn 10 and turn 2) from 4-2 I wasn't matching the revs quite properly.

Aaargh, makes me want to go back soon. Maybe I will go to a SOTS day (even though it's untimed). I don't really think timing will help me much at this stage, I still need to learn the circuit and drive with more confidence

[rxmx]

Hey buddey, nice vids. I can't wait to get out there once my car is on the road... Did you end up repairing the GV lip?

[broady]

Did you end up repairing the GV lip?

Nup, not yet. Still sussing out what I should do. Some people say weld it, some people say glue it. Glue I'm not sure would be strong enough. I don't know how to weld plastic, and I'm especially not exactly sure how the particular plastic in this lip would be affected.

As I said in Regie's thread (viewtopic.php?f=54&t=39871) I'm inclined to cut away some recesses, brace it up with some brackets and bolts and then bog it up, sand + paint.. fair bit of effort though.

[rxmx]

Ahh ok, why dont you just take it to a bike place, they do alot of plasting welding on fairings and stuff. Would be alot easier and might not cost much at all...

[NMX516]

My seat belt buckle setup is much the same as Guran's, however I removed the hard plastic cover so that the seat belt which is hidden under it can move freely allowing for the buckle to be fed through the side hole in the Sparco... That cover just pulls off - grab the buckle in one hand, and pull the plastic sleeve away from the buckle and that will break the two small pieces of thread holding it on

[lo0se3r]

oh man, have a drive on your car makes me wanting a bucket seat
It feels so comfortable.
too low, however.

Whats next?

[broady]

[broady]

[sliq]

are those parts you're looking at buying or parts you've bought? sound clips ASAP.

[sliq]

if you find a plastic welder, let me know about it mate, i'm keen to have my lip fixed too