who uses what engine oil

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Sat Dec 19, 2009 8:45 pm

I've used magnatec for a while, it removes all of the HLA noise at start up and seems to last quite well, it still feels fine when I change it at 5000-7500kms and is available at a good price.

However, I'm going to try some ELF (probably 5-40 fully synthetic) as I can get it at wholesale price and am interested to try a fully synthetic oil in the mx.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:50 pm

I've now used:

1. Castrol Edge 5W30, $35/fill, good oil at a good price, lasts around 3 months and 3 meetings
2. Castrol SYNTEC 5W40, $56/fill from Harold, similar to Edge
3. Royal Purple 5W30, $56/fill from Harold, also similar to Edge
4. Mobil 1 10W40, $70/fill from Repco, bloody awful oil, car was harsh, noisy, slow and prone to overheating, lasted less than 2 meetings
5. Amsoil 100% Synthetic Series AMO 10W40, $64/fill from Harold, Absolutely brilliant oil! Now done over 200 laps on the first fill, car is still smooth and quiet with no HLA and holds good pressure at idle, even straight after coming off the track.

At this point I'll put in a huge plug for Harold at http://www.performancelub.com/index.htm who imports all this exotic stuff and sells it cheaper than the engine rotgut you buy from SuperRepBarn.

cooper1896 · Postby **cooper1896** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:58 am

Have read a few of these oil threads, but no one has answered the question I was wondering.

I have a (relatively) high 200k na8, that only gets dríven enthusiastically (have another daily).

Based on my high millage, should I consider a different weighted oil? ie go up or down the spectrum?

Cheers
Andrew

JBT · Postby **JBT** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:44 am

What are you using now?

project.r.racing · Postby **project.r.racing** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:20 am

Any oil usage? Smoke? Rattles at start up? Etc?

cooper1896 · Postby **cooper1896** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:39 am

I have just purchased the car, so I have no idea what is currently in it.
Motor seems to running well. Not to tapetey. Haven't checked the oil.

I just wanted to change all fluids for peace of mind, to give me a solid good base line.

Guran · Postby **Guran** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:26 pm

cooper1896 wrote:Have read a few of these oil threads, but no one has answered the question I was wondering.

I have a (relatively) high 200k na8, that only gets dríven enthusiastically (have another daily).

Based on my high millage, should I consider a different weighted oil? ie go up or down the spectrum?

Cheers
Andrew

You won't need anything special. Considering the age of your car, it's better to go with a heavier grade as you'll have a lot of lifter noise with light oils and probably need to top it up regularly. I'm currently using full synthetic Nulon Street & Track 15W50 ($57 for 5L) and have been very happy with it (quiet lifters, good oil pressure, negligible oil usage). If you're not doing regular trackdays, and prepared to change the oil every 5000km, you might like to try a mineral oil 15W40 or 20W50 for around $25-$35 (Castrol, Nulon, Shell, Valvoline). Replace the filter too - I've had no problems with Ryco filters.

deanb90 · Postby **deanb90** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 3:23 pm

At the moment i have mobil 1 5W-30EP in. Seems fine although i can now hear the engine tappets tapping away.. possibly 5w-30 fully syn to thin although it was recommended by Mobil.

CHRISTolo · Postby **CHRISTolo** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 3:43 pm

Anyone have used Purolator Pureone filters? better than ryco or mazda OEM?

Quite pricey at $17.95 plus shipping to Syd $16.30 from fullnoise.net.au.

Basho · Postby **Basho** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:54 pm

CHRISTolo wrote:Anyone have used Purolator Pureone filters? better than ryco or mazda OEM?

Quite pricey at $17.95 plus shipping to Syd $16.30 from fullnoise.net.au.

I used Purolator wet filters (cartridge) in a Citroen C2 I bought in a moment of mental dystrophy . I can't recall anything good --or bad about them except , like everything else associated with and including the C2, the cost , I seem to remember , was ex-frakin-tortionate :evil:

And on topic--Nulon fully synthetic (which everyone knows it aint) 15x50 , after trying a couple of others I've settled on this , the car seems to like it and it's in the recomended viscosity range given the average ambient temp on the GC.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:59 pm

CHRISTolo wrote:Anyone have used Purolator Pureone filters? better than ryco or mazda OEM?

It always gets me this question.

For most people there's no real way to know if it's better or worse. The only way is to use each kind and after each use send the oil off to be examined properly and see which is better filtered.

Most people won't bother.

For me, I'm starting to use "drift" brand filters from Autobarn.

My reason:
They have a nut on the end so it's easier to take off for the next oil change.

project.r.racing · Postby **project.r.racing** » Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:21 am

cooper1896 wrote:I have just purchased the car, so I have no idea what is currently in it.
Motor seems to running well. Not to tapetey. Haven't checked the oil.

I just wanted to change all fluids for peace of mind, to give me a solid good base line.

Most synthetic 5W40s are close to the specs of mineral 10W30s of the 90s.

So start there, then go thicker if required.

Don't bother with cheap mineral oils. Synthetic oils are so cheap nowadays, you might as well put the good stuff in, and have longer periods between changes.

Penrite HPR5 5W40 is $43 for a 5L bottle. And you only need 4L per change. <Example>