Removing and attaching the CAS from the B6 engine.

[jerrah]

Whilst doing some troubleshooting with DIYAUTOTUNE regarding my DIYPNP I took my CAS out to check for a 5v signal.

Unfortunately I didn't mark the original location of the ears on the CAS, is there an easy way of getting the thing to line up again or have I just got to spend a few hours skinning my knuckles?

If I do need to replace my CAS - how do you get it out from behind the engine? I don't seem to have the clearance between the firewall and the back of the engine?

[Steampunk]

Remove the cam cover.
You should be able to reach in with your fingers and have a feel of where the notches on the cam are oriented.
Not a bad idea to replace the o-ring and cam cover gasket while you are at it.

[jerrah]

I reached in the back of the engine with my finger - took a guess, rotated the "ears" 180 degrees and it slotted in first go.

Did you end up having to replace your CAS 1red5?

[Steampunk]

I did replace my CAS but not because I had a problem with it. Like you, I was trying to diagnose a problem where the MS would stutter severely and just shut off.
Matt at DIY told me that it may be my CAS, so I replaced mine with an optical-pickup B6 one.
Turned out it wasn't a CAS issue.

[jerrah]

I borrowed an NA6 and a NA8 CAS.

Both seemed to work the same as my current CAS not really solving my problems with the Megasquirt.

[trader]

Just finished putting in a fresh timing belt. As the gasket kit had a CAM seal I decided to do that too. Couldn't get the CAS away from the back of the engine but was able to slide the new one on. Couldn't line up the slot so came looking here. Used your "finger" method 1red5 but before I located it I found that by looking along the cam you could easily see the slot. Mind you I was on TDC .