Engines, Transmissions & Final Drive questions and answers
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de Bounce
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Postby de Bounce » Mon Oct 26, 2009 5:32 pm
Nope
Voice of experience from someone who is

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Uncle Arthur
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Postby Uncle Arthur » Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:42 pm
May sound stupid but start by removing the drivers seat, heck of a lot more room without it in the way

Yeah - actually from memory if you aren't a contortionist or a very good copy of one, it is an awkward job too.
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manga_blue
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Postby manga_blue » Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:48 am
StanTheMan wrote:right.....
interesting.
in what way would it be better ?
new master cylinder shipped to my door is like $120. I'd hate to think what Mazda Australia charge for one.
Why better? Master cylinder leaks are caused by seal component failure and/or pitting of the bore. When you replace the seals you should always inspect the bores for pitting. If there are pits then you can either throw it away or re-sleeve it. SS re-sleeving is usually cheaper and eliminates the possibilities of pitting in the future. If there are no pits a) you didn't look hard enough and b) it's worthwhile doing it anyway once you've got it out.
As I said, good local brake shops can give you a price for re-sleeving.
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StanTheMan
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Postby StanTheMan » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:53 am
manga_blue wrote:StanTheMan wrote:right.....
interesting.
in what way would it be better ?
new master cylinder shipped to my door is like $120. I'd hate to think what Mazda Australia charge for one.
Why better? Master cylinder leaks are caused by seal component failure and/or pitting of the bore. When you replace the seals you should always inspect the bores for pitting. If there are pits then you can either throw it away or re-sleeve it. SS re-sleeving is usually cheaper and eliminates the possibilities of pitting in the future. If there are no pits a) you didn't look hard enough and b) it's worthwhile doing it anyway once you've got it out.
As I said, good local brake shops can give you a price for re-sleeving.
thanks for that. I'll have to make some phonecalls.
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ampz
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Postby ampz » Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:57 pm
Bring it around, we'll have it done in an hour

Huh?
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StanTheMan
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Postby StanTheMan » Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:36 pm
so what do i do about the fluid under the carpet?
don't want the floor to rust out.
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wun911
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Postby wun911 » Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:40 pm
I had to re paint my firewall....
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ampz
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Postby ampz » Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:43 pm
StanTheMan wrote:so what do i do about the fluid under the carpet?
don't want the floor to rust out.
Take the carpet out until it's dry
Paint any bits of rust
Huh?
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bruce
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Postby bruce » Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:46 pm
Auto trans fluid is used for power steering and fwd diffs. Is clutch fluid unique, or is it brake fluid?
Pull up the carpets and dry the underlay (take the seat out and see if it will pull up). I would give the floor a wash with some water or detergent (pop out the rubber grommet in the floor to drain).
Last edited by
bruce on Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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daffyflyer
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Postby daffyflyer » Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:48 pm
Its brake fluid yeah
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StanTheMan
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Postby StanTheMan » Tue Oct 27, 2009 3:07 pm
yep brake fluid
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Okibi
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Postby Okibi » Wed Oct 28, 2009 1:01 am
ampz wrote:Take the carpet out until it's dry

...t
Keep the carpet out and paint the floor, it's getting closer to an NA racer anyway.

If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
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StanTheMan
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Postby StanTheMan » Tue Nov 17, 2009 9:53 pm
well I cleaned under the carpet. There was no visible rust. The underlay is completely farked I just took most of it out It was like mushed paper. Gave the carpet a bit of a wash too. I'll repeat the process tomorrow.
So I guess i'll just replace the underlay.
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hks_kansei
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Postby hks_kansei » Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:00 pm
wash the painted under carpet area like mad.
the brake fluid will just rip the paint off if left there.
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StanTheMan
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Postby StanTheMan » Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:05 pm
ok I'll get at it with detergent & a brush. Today was with a watering can & a cloth
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