DIYPNP build up
Moderators: timk, Stu, zombie, Andrew, -alex, miata
- jerrah
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 724
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:54 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
- jerrah
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 724
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:54 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
DIYPNP build up
I've got the firmware installed on the DIYPNP and I'm using a serial to USB adapter.
I picked up a DB15 plug from Jaycar earlier tonight so I can do the custom cabling.
I picked up a DB15 plug from Jaycar earlier tonight so I can do the custom cabling.
1991 MX5
- timk
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 1928
- Joined: Fri Dec 31, 2004 3:16 pm
- Vehicle: NC
- Steampunk
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 4670
- Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:16 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Southside of Breeze-bane
DIYPNP build up
jerrah wrote:I've got the firmware installed on the DIYPNP and I'm using a serial to USB adapter.
Not sure if this applies for MS or PNP or both, but I heard some people have had problems connecting serial to USB purely because the USB connector, for some reason, is not compatible.
If you have COM Port connection problems, this may be it.
- StanTheMan
- Forum legend
- Posts: 6824
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Balgowlah
DIYPNP build up
1red5 wrote:jerrah wrote:I've got the firmware installed on the DIYPNP and I'm using a serial to USB adapter.
Not sure if this applies for MS or PNP or both, but I heard some people have had problems connecting serial to USB purely because the USB connector, for some reason, is not compatible.
If you have COM Port connection problems, this may be it.
I had that issue with an Adaptronic. Not all Serial/USB converters work on Microsoft Vista. Ampz lent me his for a while. It works the treat.
Satans Ride called F33nix the resurrected NA6
- jerrah
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 724
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:54 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
DIYPNP build up
I've had no problems with the USB/Serial plug. I bought it from DIYAUTOtune.
Current hold up is working out how I'm going to drive my fuel pump. The 90-93 MX5 doesn't go through the ECU so I'll have to tap into the stock wiring somewhere.
I probably also should be installing the wideband and IAT sensors but I didn't want to start chopping and changing things on the car until I'm ready to be dedicated to the DIYPNP.
Current hold up is working out how I'm going to drive my fuel pump. The 90-93 MX5 doesn't go through the ECU so I'll have to tap into the stock wiring somewhere.
I probably also should be installing the wideband and IAT sensors but I didn't want to start chopping and changing things on the car until I'm ready to be dedicated to the DIYPNP.
1991 MX5
- jerrah
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 724
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:54 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
DIYPNP build up
I've got the car cranking. Fuel pump was done through jumpering two pins in the MAF plug and wiring FUEL PUMP to the ST SIGN circuit.
Not currently starting as Tunerstudio isn't detecting RPM for some reason.
Not currently starting as Tunerstudio isn't detecting RPM for some reason.
1991 MX5
- ampz
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 814
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 9:56 pm
- Vehicle: NA6 - Turbo
- Location: siiiidaneeey
- Contact:
DIYPNP build up
Double check your CKP and CMP (CAS) signals, they may have been reversed.
From the pinouts floating on the DIY board, mine ended up being reversed.
From the pics it looks like you're on your way to DIY goodness ;)
The only thing i would do different would be to breakout the extra pins through teh middle connectors on the ECU plug (the NA6 only uses the edge ones) to give it a more 'stock' look and feel.
Having said that, I have a MS1 and it's a little off standard build and the cops haven't asked me to pull up the carpet (even during emissions test).
From the pinouts floating on the DIY board, mine ended up being reversed.
From the pics it looks like you're on your way to DIY goodness ;)
The only thing i would do different would be to breakout the extra pins through teh middle connectors on the ECU plug (the NA6 only uses the edge ones) to give it a more 'stock' look and feel.
Having said that, I have a MS1 and it's a little off standard build and the cops haven't asked me to pull up the carpet (even during emissions test).
Huh?
- jerrah
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 724
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:54 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
DIYPNP build up
I'm still having trouble with CKP and CMP. I guess I can try them the other way around.
EDIT: Made no difference.
Works fine with the stock ECU. I'd really like to try a MSPNP on it...
EDIT: Made no difference.
Works fine with the stock ECU. I'd really like to try a MSPNP on it...
1991 MX5
- ampz
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 814
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 9:56 pm
- Vehicle: NA6 - Turbo
- Location: siiiidaneeey
- Contact:
DIYPNP build up
Wait a sec, NB6 engine?
What cas are you using?
Is it the same as the NB engines crank sensor and cam sensor on the front of the engine?
Or the same as the NA one at the back of the inlet cam?
I'm guessing it's at the back of the inlet cam, given you said it runs with the stock computer.
If so, the input signals are on 2E (White) for CKP (primary) and 2G for CMP (secondary) (Yellow/Blue).
Got a pic of the board showing the inputs? (I couldn't really see on the one you posted on mt.net)
What cas are you using?
Is it the same as the NB engines crank sensor and cam sensor on the front of the engine?
Or the same as the NA one at the back of the inlet cam?
I'm guessing it's at the back of the inlet cam, given you said it runs with the stock computer.
If so, the input signals are on 2E (White) for CKP (primary) and 2G for CMP (secondary) (Yellow/Blue).
Got a pic of the board showing the inputs? (I couldn't really see on the one you posted on mt.net)
Huh?
- Okibi
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 10898
- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NB SE
- Location: Perth, Western Australia
- Contact:
DIYPNP build up
Some people are starting to build the megasquirt to suit the NB including building a circuit to control the alternator.
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/index.php?section=22
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/index.php?section=22
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
- jerrah
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 724
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:54 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
DIYPNP build up
The NB6 engine has been modified by MX5plus to run with the stock NA6 sensor.
DIYPNP - MX5 Loom
OPTO IN- - 4E
VR2 IN – 4G
DIYPNP - MX5 Loom
OPTO IN- - 4E
VR2 IN – 4G
1991 MX5
- ampz
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 814
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 9:56 pm
- Vehicle: NA6 - Turbo
- Location: siiiidaneeey
- Contact:
DIYPNP build up
taken from here
CKP signal goes to OPT IN + (so this would be the 4E) and you put a jumper between OPTO- and GND - You will need a 470 ohm resistor in R3 position which will give it a 12v pullup. (this is for a going low signal input)
the CMP signal goes in to VR2 with a 5v pullup and this has me a little confused, I used a 470 ohm resistor off the 5v feed but there's no mention of it in the link. Unless it is one of the input conditioning resistors.
Having typed all that though... the pinout sheet on mt.net (post #78) contradicts itself and what diy are saying.
They say to connect CKP to OPTO+ but have the signal going to OPTO- with a pullup resistor in OPTO+ (Vref should be going in on one side and GND on the other)...
Now from memory I used the going low (OPTO+) side of things with MS1, have you tried that?
If you have access to the JimStim you will be able to verify this on a bench (or use a signal source, battery 5v logic switch) to see if the inputs are generating triggers on the MS.
I'll check a bit later when i have some more time
Edit: It seems i was wrong according to Ben in mt... as per post #20
he types:
The car runs. I am using the stock uS trigger inputs. Crank is wired to opto - and has a 470 ohm pullup on opto + to 12V. Cam has a 470 ohm pull up to 5V. No schmitt nonsense. No drama.
I'm not sure if the 99 inputs work in the same way as the cas but i seem to remember that they are definitelly similar, (that was read a couple of years ago though) if not the same.
Have you had any progress?
CKP signal goes to OPT IN + (so this would be the 4E) and you put a jumper between OPTO- and GND - You will need a 470 ohm resistor in R3 position which will give it a 12v pullup. (this is for a going low signal input)
the CMP signal goes in to VR2 with a 5v pullup and this has me a little confused, I used a 470 ohm resistor off the 5v feed but there's no mention of it in the link. Unless it is one of the input conditioning resistors.
Having typed all that though... the pinout sheet on mt.net (post #78) contradicts itself and what diy are saying.
They say to connect CKP to OPTO+ but have the signal going to OPTO- with a pullup resistor in OPTO+ (Vref should be going in on one side and GND on the other)...
Now from memory I used the going low (OPTO+) side of things with MS1, have you tried that?
If you have access to the JimStim you will be able to verify this on a bench (or use a signal source, battery 5v logic switch) to see if the inputs are generating triggers on the MS.
I'll check a bit later when i have some more time
Edit: It seems i was wrong according to Ben in mt... as per post #20
he types:
The car runs. I am using the stock uS trigger inputs. Crank is wired to opto - and has a 470 ohm pullup on opto + to 12V. Cam has a 470 ohm pull up to 5V. No schmitt nonsense. No drama.
I'm not sure if the 99 inputs work in the same way as the cas but i seem to remember that they are definitelly similar, (that was read a couple of years ago though) if not the same.
Have you had any progress?
Huh?
- jerrah
- Racing Driver
- Posts: 724
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:54 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Brisbane
DIYPNP build up
I got my DIYPNP running.
It was.... My TPS.
Stock TPS brings 5v to ground which destroyed my cam angle sensor signal.
Disconnected the TPS and can started straight up. I have to install my wideband before I go any further.
It was.... My TPS.
Stock TPS brings 5v to ground which destroyed my cam angle sensor signal.
Disconnected the TPS and can started straight up. I have to install my wideband before I go any further.
1991 MX5
- Okibi
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 10898
- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NB SE
- Location: Perth, Western Australia
- Contact:
DIYPNP build up
Congrats but don't keep your NA6 TPS, as far as I know they're more an on/off switch, there's a Bosch one from a BMW that will bolt on and give a gradual reading. I'm sure the experts will have more details.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
Return to “MX5 Audio, Electronics & Lighting”
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 225 guests