1. I need to keep my sales kit secure in the boot of my 04 SE. So it would be good if I could make it so the tombstone lever no longer opens the boot just in case, despite the clever Cobra alarm, someone manages to get in the car and knows about that lever.
2. The sales kit fits in a bag only slightly smaller than an MX5 boot and is so big and so heavy that, while carrying it, I'll never be able to get the key in the boot lock without becoming a) much stronger and b) having rubber double-jonted limbs or c) putting the whole bag down on the floor, which is a PITA and, in Melbourne conditions, would often mean I instantly have a dirty wet bag (ooh errr missus!). So it would be really good if I could just press the boot unblock button on the remote to both unlock and fully open the boot.
Suggestions on how to make both the above happen will be gratefully received.
Also, does anyone know of a manufacturer of fitted luggage for our boots, either in one piece or two pieces?
SE boot security
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- davekmoore
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SE boot security
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
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SE boot security
Do you mean lever, or a button. I know the NA has a lever in the centre console for the boot and fuel door, does the SE have the same? Could the lever/button be moved to a more secure place? I know of a way to disable the lever/cable in the NA, but that probably disables the remote button as well.
http://www.miata.net/garage/techtrunk.html
Once again in the NA there are some tension springs that run the width of the boot. These help to 'pop' the boot lid up. If the SE has the same type I believe it is possible to adjust the tension which may allow the boot lid to open more fully when you push the remote button.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.ph ... trunk+lift
http://www.gomiata.com/mimx5trlikit.html
With regards to luggage
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info. ... cts_id/590
http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProd ... exID=76664
There is also a company in NZ that makes a bag that sits on the rear shelve behind the seats, not sure of they make anything for the boot.
J
http://www.miata.net/garage/techtrunk.html
Once again in the NA there are some tension springs that run the width of the boot. These help to 'pop' the boot lid up. If the SE has the same type I believe it is possible to adjust the tension which may allow the boot lid to open more fully when you push the remote button.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.ph ... trunk+lift
http://www.gomiata.com/mimx5trlikit.html
With regards to luggage
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info. ... cts_id/590
http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProd ... exID=76664
There is also a company in NZ that makes a bag that sits on the rear shelve behind the seats, not sure of they make anything for the boot.
J
Former owner of Mailbu Stacey, Smurfette and Tweety.
- miatanut
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SE boot security
Re - point 1. From memory, if I turned the key in the boot lock at the rear of the car to the left??? a quarter of a turn on my '01 NB8B, then this would disengage the lever inside the cabin as well as the boot release on the remote. I can only assume the SE works the same way. Hope this helps.
- Benny
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SE boot security
I think by turning the boot key to the left will not only disable the interior lever, but may also stop the remote from opening the boot as it is a "dead lock".
Perhaps the best and easiest thing you could do is simply disconnect the interior lever from the lock by unattaching the cable that goes from the interior lever to the boot lock, either from the lever side, or from the boot lock itself.
That way the interior lever won't work, but your remote will still be operational.
Perhaps the best and easiest thing you could do is simply disconnect the interior lever from the lock by unattaching the cable that goes from the interior lever to the boot lock, either from the lever side, or from the boot lock itself.
That way the interior lever won't work, but your remote will still be operational.
ALWAYS RUNNING, SP with Bilstein Coil Overs and Doof Doof sound. Member of the Fat Bastards Racing Team
- Okibi
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SE boot security
I have removed the cable from the lever in the center console
I have a remote release connected to my boot (using the 3rd button on the factory NB8A alarm)
It "pops" open thanks to a spring loaded switch the alarm uses to test if someone opens the boot while the alarm is still active. You could get the stronger factory boot with spoiler spring (or adjust the current one) so that the boot fully opens.
I have made a plate that covers the rear area of the car behind the license plate (including the key hole).
If the battery ever goes flat (so can't use remote) I have to take the time to remove this panel to get the key inn the lock ... which could be a PITA but it would only happen once in a blue moon and it makes it harder for some low life to walk up and jam a screw driver into the boot lock.
I have a remote release connected to my boot (using the 3rd button on the factory NB8A alarm)
It "pops" open thanks to a spring loaded switch the alarm uses to test if someone opens the boot while the alarm is still active. You could get the stronger factory boot with spoiler spring (or adjust the current one) so that the boot fully opens.
I have made a plate that covers the rear area of the car behind the license plate (including the key hole).
If the battery ever goes flat (so can't use remote) I have to take the time to remove this panel to get the key inn the lock ... which could be a PITA but it would only happen once in a blue moon and it makes it harder for some low life to walk up and jam a screw driver into the boot lock.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
- bruce
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SE boot security
Don't worry about the boot - they'll just take the whole bloody car !
- davekmoore
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SE boot security
Okibi wrote:I have removed the cable from the lever in the center console
I have a remote release connected to my boot (using the 3rd button on the factory NB8A alarm)
It "pops" open thanks to a spring loaded switch the alarm uses to test if someone opens the boot while the alarm is still active. You could get the stronger factory boot with spoiler spring (or adjust the current one) so that the boot fully opens.
I have made a plate that covers the rear area of the car behind the license plate (including the key hole).
If the battery ever goes flat (so can't use remote) I have to take the time to remove this panel to get the key inn the lock ... which could be a PITA but it would only happen once in a blue moon and it makes it harder for some low life to walk up and jam a screw driver into the boot lock.
Could you possibly share with me a template for this plate and maybe a pic so I don't have to reinvent the wheel? Have you had it painted to match the car? This also sounds like a good idea to tidy up all the indentations in that area and enable the use of a slimline plate.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
- Okibi
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SE boot security
Sorry no template but one is piss easy to make, remove your rear number plate and mark,cut,fold a bit of paper to fit that area. It will be quicker and easier than trying to print out a template anyway.
Mine is color matched to the car and it has a square cut out of it to hold the half sized number plate (that doesn't fit the OEM holes).
Mine is color matched to the car and it has a square cut out of it to hold the half sized number plate (that doesn't fit the OEM holes).
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
- davekmoore
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SE boot security
Bootiful!!
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
- davekmoore
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SE/NB with remote locking - boot etc security
Okibi you are a genius. See pics below of my copy of your idea.
Before ....
After ......
It works from a security aspect as there's a decent chance a sneak thief will just ignore BARMY because he can't see a boot lock or anything valuable in the cockpit so he just moves on to the next car which has a visible boot lock that he fancies attacking with his screwdriver - or maybe interesting parcels on the back seat etc.
It also looks waaaaaay better by getting rid of all those odd overlapping shapes, curves and shadows (I also cut off the two plastic nipples under the number plate. This enables the new metal sheet to sit flatter in the panel. Double sided tape coming soon to help the plate follow the slight curve of the panel a bit better.This will mean a change to the template size so v7.1 will fit better still. All very Sad, eh?).
This one was done in zinc steel as that's what was available at a price at the time. And it won't rust. It's heavy though and I'm sure aluminium would be a better way to go for lightness (thank you Colin Chapman). An ally one could also be held on either with DST and/or a couple of self tappers high up where the boot lid overlap would hide them. Then add a stick on rego plate (no visible fixings and no screw holes) for an even cleaner look (may not be legal in all or any states)?
The boot release cable is disconnected at the boot end.
The tombstone is always locked (for what that's worth - basically nada) and empty (which is probably worth the same).
The top is left down when parked as often as possible with no personal possessions visible in the car. If the roof has to be up the doors aren't locked so if Mr.Dodgy must have a sniff around he can do it without having to attack the (mohair) roof. I've gone with another psychophological plan recently as well, leaving a $2 coin very visible on the deck under the roll bar. Parked 20+ times. Still got the $2. Interesting. And Sad, I know .....
Nothing's ever left in the glovebox, even if it's locked (have you found out yet how easy it is just to walk off with the whole glovebox, without breaking stride?
Anything of any actual value is in the boot, which now at least seems as if it can only be opened with the remote, although there are other ways which forumites will be able to work out but that I'm not going to discuss on a public forum.
To fit my sales kit in the boot I've had to junk the spare wheel, the side and front trim panels and the fuel pipes cover and am considering removing the bracketery for the spare wheel and its tools to make a bit more space. Since junking the spare only a month ago I've, annoyingly, had the first and second punctures of my whole motoring life (to give you an idea of how many years that is, I used, Once Upon a Time, to sell new MGBs). Unannoyingly, both were discovered after BARMY was parked up in our garage at night meaning I could put the pram wheel on to take the flatties to the tyre shop in the morning.
The next mod will be the hydraulic lifter which lifts the boot all the way up when the remote is pressed. This'll make it so much easier to reload my kit into the boot. And hey, it'll look cool(ish) too. Yeh, I know, Sad x 2 ...... or to the power of 7, or something.
After that, I'd like the Cobra to do everything it can do when activated, but without locking the doors, so Mr.D doesn't feel the need to knife the roof, but does get his ears blown off if he opens a door.. Can anyone help me with that plan?
Before ....
After ......
It works from a security aspect as there's a decent chance a sneak thief will just ignore BARMY because he can't see a boot lock or anything valuable in the cockpit so he just moves on to the next car which has a visible boot lock that he fancies attacking with his screwdriver - or maybe interesting parcels on the back seat etc.
It also looks waaaaaay better by getting rid of all those odd overlapping shapes, curves and shadows (I also cut off the two plastic nipples under the number plate. This enables the new metal sheet to sit flatter in the panel. Double sided tape coming soon to help the plate follow the slight curve of the panel a bit better.This will mean a change to the template size so v7.1 will fit better still. All very Sad, eh?).
This one was done in zinc steel as that's what was available at a price at the time. And it won't rust. It's heavy though and I'm sure aluminium would be a better way to go for lightness (thank you Colin Chapman). An ally one could also be held on either with DST and/or a couple of self tappers high up where the boot lid overlap would hide them. Then add a stick on rego plate (no visible fixings and no screw holes) for an even cleaner look (may not be legal in all or any states)?
The boot release cable is disconnected at the boot end.
The tombstone is always locked (for what that's worth - basically nada) and empty (which is probably worth the same).
The top is left down when parked as often as possible with no personal possessions visible in the car. If the roof has to be up the doors aren't locked so if Mr.Dodgy must have a sniff around he can do it without having to attack the (mohair) roof. I've gone with another psychophological plan recently as well, leaving a $2 coin very visible on the deck under the roll bar. Parked 20+ times. Still got the $2. Interesting. And Sad, I know .....
Nothing's ever left in the glovebox, even if it's locked (have you found out yet how easy it is just to walk off with the whole glovebox, without breaking stride?
Anything of any actual value is in the boot, which now at least seems as if it can only be opened with the remote, although there are other ways which forumites will be able to work out but that I'm not going to discuss on a public forum.
To fit my sales kit in the boot I've had to junk the spare wheel, the side and front trim panels and the fuel pipes cover and am considering removing the bracketery for the spare wheel and its tools to make a bit more space. Since junking the spare only a month ago I've, annoyingly, had the first and second punctures of my whole motoring life (to give you an idea of how many years that is, I used, Once Upon a Time, to sell new MGBs). Unannoyingly, both were discovered after BARMY was parked up in our garage at night meaning I could put the pram wheel on to take the flatties to the tyre shop in the morning.
The next mod will be the hydraulic lifter which lifts the boot all the way up when the remote is pressed. This'll make it so much easier to reload my kit into the boot. And hey, it'll look cool(ish) too. Yeh, I know, Sad x 2 ...... or to the power of 7, or something.
After that, I'd like the Cobra to do everything it can do when activated, but without locking the doors, so Mr.D doesn't feel the need to knife the roof, but does get his ears blown off if he opens a door.. Can anyone help me with that plan?
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UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)
- Okibi
- Speed Racer
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- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NB SE
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SE/NB with remote locking - boot etc security
davekmoore wrote:Okibi you are a genius. ...The next mod will be the hydraulic lifter which lifts the boot all the way up when the remote is pressed...
You can modify the current boot spring or get one designed for a heavy spoiler, that will make your boot pop all the way open.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
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