Another clutch install thread.

[fastfreddygassit]

Ok. Clutch/flywheel replacement time again. This time for Green Comment

I decided to start yet another thread on this so that someone else can use it as a reference.
Previous threads are
FFG installs a Toda flywheel and new clutch
and
Wun installs a ACT flywheel and new clutch

Unfortunately I have now achieved a modicum of experience in doing clutch/flywheel replacements. I did my car twice (gearbox removal only and recently engine/gearbox removal) and fatty's once (so far).
Wun has helped with Fatty's install (just keep him away from brake fluid) and has completed his own install.
Ryan has helped on these installs as well.
The first time we did my car it took about 10 hours. This time the three of us are a lot more prepared...and motivated (But we won't have Ben's help-something about his wife is expecting their first child)
Looking back at the process I do believe if you are focussed and have the appropriate tools and help then you should have the gearbox out in sub 3 hours.
and about the same time for re-installation plus an hour for flywheel/clutch removal installation.
Big call I know but it should be achievable for us novices.

[fastfreddygassit]

So this is our plan of attack.
Each person will have a defined area to work in.
Please feel free to add comments/suggestions.

Gearbox removal.
1. Securely jack car up on stands/hoist/ramps.
2. Isolate battery
INSIDE CAR
3. Take knob from the gearstick lever
4. remove centre console
take out ashtray and open storage compartment lid, there are now 5 screws visble that need to be removed. 2 in storage compartment, 1 in ashtray recess and 2 adjacent to shift lever area. Undo wiring before removing centre console.
5. Remove any sound deadening around shift boot
6. Remove shift lever rubber boot bolts (4x10mm bolts)
7. Lift rubber boot and undo the 3x10mm bolts securing it to the gearbox turret
8. Remove shift lever assembly. WATCH OUT FOR DRIPPING OIL!
UNDERNEATH CAR
9. If fitted, remove engine undertray.
10. Remove front chassis brace bar (2x17mm bolts)
11. Drain gearbox fluid (approx 3 litres). Plug requires 24mm socket. Don’t forget to refit plug when drain complete cos you’ll invariably lose it!!
12. Remove rear subframe chassis/ladder brace (6x17mm bolts)
13. Remove ENTIRE exhaust system. Just makes it HEAPS easier! This will probably be a PITA job so make sure you have CRC’d all the nuts before hand. It helps to silicon spray the exhaust hanger rubbers so that everything will slip off easily.
14. Remove driveshaft (4x14mm nuts and bolts). You MUST mark the driveshaft flange position relative to the diff flange for ease of refitting as there may be balance issues. Either file a mark across the 2 components or use a whitemarker pen. Be aware that some oil will drip out when shaft removed from gearbox. Refit the 4x14mm nuts bolts into diff flange so you don’t lose them.
15.Undo and remove clutch slave cylinder from bellhousing (2x12mm bolts). This will be a PITA job. When removed either leave to hang or tie it back out of the way. From this point forth it would NOIT be a good idea to press the clutch pedal…obviously!!
16. Undo speedo drive cable. Large multigrips or pliers work well here.
17. Undo/disconnect the reverse switch and neutral switch wires (2 connectors each)
18. Loop some strong rope around rear of gearbox snout and loop through opening in floor. Wrap around a bar in such a way that gearbox is supported this way. The idea is to use a sling to support the weight of the gearbox.
19. Undo the PPF from the gearbox.
The support bracket is 1x17mm bolt and 2x14mm bolts
The PPF bolts are 2x17mm and they are long!!
Swing the PPF out of the way. The gearbox rear will drop but that why we did loop of rope in #18!!
20. Fun time: Undo the bellhousing/gearbox bolts! There are 11 of them. 1x14mm nut and bolt holding the starter motor. Then there are 2x14 bolts holding the top of the starter motor. These also hold brackets that secure the wiring and hydraulic pipe. Once these are free it would be a smashing idea to tie these brackets away from the bellhousing as they WILL get in the way when reinstalling gearbox!! There are now 7x17mm bolts and 1x17mm nut and bolt left to remove.
21. Remove gearbox!!. Watch out for oil spills from turret. Gearbox weighs around 50kg

The flywheel/clutch removal and installation comes next.

[green_comet]

Sounds like a plan Mike. The flywheel and pressure plate have been balanced(they were out), and I have all the tools and everything ready to go.

I will see all you guys tomorrow morning at Wun's place.

Weather aint looking too good. 16 with a few showers. Ill have to try get my hands on a tarp or something.

[PUR157]

Mods can you sticky this?

So we don't lose it and get asked something similar within a week... or tomorrow...

[green_comet]

Ill take pictures of the whole process tomorrow, so we can make a good sticky thread. That way we will have the instructions, and corresponding pics to go with them.

[wun911]

Sounds good.

I'm all for working quickly the forcast is for 16 and showers tomorow.

[green_comet]

I have a 3x3 metre canopy im bringing with me, so we should be fine.

[wun911]

It turned out to be a nice day no rain, the clutch was installed with sucess!

















Please note for those installing a higher clamping force clutch; upon completing the job you may need to bleed the clutch line and adjust the rod on the clutch pedal. I assume this is because heavier clutches with more clamping force need just a tad more pressure to work.

[sliq]

good on ya. i wish i had the skill to install a clutch/flywheel

[fastfreddygassit]

To Ben (Meanmx), Ben (Bensale), Ryan (green comment ) and Wun (Mr man boobs) thanks heaps for your help.
It was a very good day.
We had the gearbox out of the car in 90 min (I think).
I was quite impressed with that time.
The big chunk of time was getting the manifold/extractor nuts off.
Undoing the gearbox/bellhousing nuts and bolts wasn't too bad as we had the magic impact gun(TM) and about 3 m of extension bars!!

We then hit a snag with the replacement of the rear main seal which then was immediately followed by a mad rush to an auto shop for a replacement.
It was at this stage we broke for lunch. mmmm KFC

After lunch, and the successful fitment of the rear main, we fitted the new flywheel and clutch.
(point to note here. I didn't replace the flywheel bolts but re-used them. It helps if you have an awl and a wire brush to clean ALL the old threadlocker/loctite off the threads. This is a PITA job and takes ages)

The gearbox was then refitted and it went in damn easy. Almost too easily I actually didn't breathe a sigh of relief until we could crank the motor by hand and see the tailshaft spin.

Everything else went really well and as they say in the classics installation is the reverse of disassembly - or something like that.

The car was ready to be started (ie. EVERYTHING fitted by 3pm or thereabouts, and we had started the job at 9.30am!!) and that is when the obligatory "oh sh!t" moment occurred.
The clutch wouldn't disengage (same thing happened with fatty's clutch install). Inspection under the car indicated that the push-out rod wasn't traveling far enough.
After a bit of time spent bleeding the clutch and adjusting the clutch mastercyl throw out it was all hunky dory.

I'm sure the other lads will add their comments but I am rapt the day went relatively smoothly and quickly.
You did a great job team! Well done!

[green_comet]

Woohoo.... I just got back home, being stuck in traffic for 40min with my newly installed gear never felt soo good. But yes everything is running spot on, and man does if rev now. I still have to get used to the heavier clutch, and light flywheel, it makes is very easy to stall off the line. But I made it home without stalling once, and in stop start traffic it was good practice.

I would like to send out a huge thankyou to Mike, Wun, Ben, and Bensale. Thanks very much guys, I would have never been able to do this alone.

Cheers guys
Ryan

[Steampunk]

Page bookmarked for future reference.

Well done fellas, we can do mine on my way to Natmeet next year

[green_comet]

Just a quick update, everything is running great. I had a bit of an issue with a very loud squeel while driving, that would go away when I pressed the clutch in a little. I though it was a bearing but it ended up being the point where the slave cylinder rod contacts the throwout lever. It must have got dirty or something where it contacts, and was squeeling like mad with the vibration. A quick spray with some lithium grease on the rod, and the contact point has fixed it.

[93_Clubman]

tks guys - great thread!

[Adam_NAclubman]

I want that frame the car is up on!!!!!!!!!

I've been doing my engine swap over the last few weekends, something like that would be so much more comfortable than having it on axle stands.

It should be two litres of oil in the box, not three though I think (well, 1.9 litres, 2 quarts)