Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
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- sliq
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
i think you should focus deadening the doors first.. the rest can come later..
i bought my dynamat door kit for $93 from Ryda
i bought my dynamat door kit for $93 from Ryda
i can't brain today.. i have the dumb..
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
I would highly recommend a headunit that accepts USB. I got a decent pioneer unit and I can just put songs onto the USB stick and play them. No mucking around with cd's, no scratched cd's and no jumping of cd's due to stiff suspension Plus, 1 x USB = 16gig, or more so 320kbps is no problem.
One thing that was mentioned to me recently by another forum member was using roof cladding instead of dynamat. Aluminium foil with a tar backing. Very much cheaper than dynamat and still does the job of damping vibrations but probably not as effectively. Intresting thought, but I haven't tryed it myself.
One thing that was mentioned to me recently by another forum member was using roof cladding instead of dynamat. Aluminium foil with a tar backing. Very much cheaper than dynamat and still does the job of damping vibrations but probably not as effectively. Intresting thought, but I haven't tryed it myself.
Not RED
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
Speedyblue wrote:One thing that was mentioned to me recently by another forum member was using roof cladding instead of dynamat. Aluminium foil with a tar backing. Very much cheaper than dynamat and still does the job of damping vibrations but probably not as effectively. Intresting thought, but I haven't tryed it myself.
Waste of money. Not much weight in that stuff compared to Dynamat, and you'd have to buy quite a few rolls of it to do both inside door skins on each door. A Dynamat Extreme door kit will do both 5 doors and give the desired result, guaranteed! At ~$100 a pack it's low cost, and does a great job. I don't understand why anyone would waste their time and money trying to re-invent the wheel with this stuff.
Pain is temporary, quitting lasts forever.
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
yep - getting both a USB plug and a ipod plug - thinking of utilising that little space on the right of th steering wheel need where you tweak the display brightness (don't know what else i can use that space for).
definitely deadening the doors properly... doing inside and outside of doors and what not... again, it would be interesting to hear your rig before and after deadening though Sliq.
definitely deadening the doors properly... doing inside and outside of doors and what not... again, it would be interesting to hear your rig before and after deadening though Sliq.
- sliq
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
nmx516, do you only dynamat where the existing plastic sheeting goes?
or also on the inside of the outer layer of the door?
cheers
sliq
or also on the inside of the outer layer of the door?
cheers
sliq
i can't brain today.. i have the dumb..
- Garry
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
Sliq,
You do the inside surface of the outside skin of the door and also where the plastic sheeting goes. (though I've only done the door skin on my car). After it's done you will notice that the door shuts with a nice thud rather that the typical twang from Jap cars designed last century.
Marty also has a product that's installed directly behind the speaker. It has dynamat type product on one side and accoustic foam on the other side. The dynamat side sticks to the door skin leaving the accoustic foam side facing the speaker. This did wonders in my car to tighten up the base.
You do the inside surface of the outside skin of the door and also where the plastic sheeting goes. (though I've only done the door skin on my car). After it's done you will notice that the door shuts with a nice thud rather that the typical twang from Jap cars designed last century.
Marty also has a product that's installed directly behind the speaker. It has dynamat type product on one side and accoustic foam on the other side. The dynamat side sticks to the door skin leaving the accoustic foam side facing the speaker. This did wonders in my car to tighten up the base.
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
I think Garry's talking about DynaXorb: http://www.dynamat.com/store/store-car.asp
so... the most important question is - anyone got any ingenius idea of how to hide the head-unit with something that doesn't make it look so obvious that i'm hiding something?...
so... the most important question is - anyone got any ingenius idea of how to hide the head-unit with something that doesn't make it look so obvious that i'm hiding something?...
- sliq
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
BadBong wrote:I think Garry's talking about DynaXorb: http://www.dynamat.com/store/store-car.asp
so... the most important question is - anyone got any ingenius idea of how to hide the head-unit with something that doesn't make it look so obvious that i'm hiding something?...
just get one with a replaceable face.
can't tell you where i hide the face though
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- sliq
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
i can't brain today.. i have the dumb..
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
Can't detach the 7" screen mate...
Need something else to 'cover' it LOL
Need something else to 'cover' it LOL
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
sliq wrote:nmx516, do you only dynamat where the existing plastic sheeting goes?
or also on the inside of the outer layer of the door?
cheers
sliq
Yep, Dynamat on the outer skin and the inner skin (where the plastic sheeting goes). Clean all the surfaces first with prepsol (also known as wax and grease remover). I'm going to do my new 5 soon-ish so will take some pics of the whole process and do a bit of a write up on it....
It's also a good idea to cover the service holes with duct tape (not duck tape ) so that you're sealing the door cavity as much as is possible. If you ever have to gain access it's a simple matter of cutting the tape, and then putting some more back on when you're done. Don't run the deadening material over the service holes as it is just a waste of Dynamat or whatever you're using.
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- sliq
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
does that mean Jeo did a big booboo?
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=34641&p=449597&hilit=dynamat#p449597
by service holes, i think u were referring to the holes where you access the window belts & motor?
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=34641&p=449597&hilit=dynamat#p449597
by service holes, i think u were referring to the holes where you access the window belts & motor?
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- philz
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
Yes all the holes apart from the speaker hole.
What jeo has done is cover over the holes with dynamat, it's okay but when the time you need to fix your windows or something it will be a pain in the ass, well not really.
Alternatively just do what jeo has done, then cut out the dynamat in the service holes.
Reapply a piece of thin 3mm mdf template of the hole, cover the piece of mdf with the existing dynamat.
Hold together with duct tape.
So when it's time to fix the windows, all you need to do is cut the duct tape and the piece will fall out, rather than cut up the dynamat, with sticky residue on a hot summers day.
edit: Also sealing up the holes with mdf will make it more "solid", and act like a box, Dynamat on it's own will not do the job, because it needs something to stick on for it to reduce vibrations and resonance of the object it covers.
What jeo has done is cover over the holes with dynamat, it's okay but when the time you need to fix your windows or something it will be a pain in the ass, well not really.
Alternatively just do what jeo has done, then cut out the dynamat in the service holes.
Reapply a piece of thin 3mm mdf template of the hole, cover the piece of mdf with the existing dynamat.
Hold together with duct tape.
So when it's time to fix the windows, all you need to do is cut the duct tape and the piece will fall out, rather than cut up the dynamat, with sticky residue on a hot summers day.
edit: Also sealing up the holes with mdf will make it more "solid", and act like a box, Dynamat on it's own will not do the job, because it needs something to stick on for it to reduce vibrations and resonance of the object it covers.
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
Well covering the larger holes with Dynamat is just a waste of Dynamat, regardless of whether it can also be cut into when you need to use the access holes or not...
The "extreme door kit" is just enough to do both skins on each door without covering the service holes.
The "extreme door kit" is just enough to do both skins on each door without covering the service holes.
Pain is temporary, quitting lasts forever.
- Jeo
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Audio: Just got a quote... deal or no deal?
Covering up the holes is certainly a big part of it, but adding weight to the door skin as a whole is included too. Yes you can just cover the holes and you will hear an improvement but you will achieve more by doing the whole door. Being able to fix anything that does go wrong in the door becomes much harder, but in the multiple cars I've deadened, its only ever had to come off once to fix something.
I've seen plenty of people try the mdf cutout thing before and have only got mixed results back. Some say its the greatest thing ever, others say it does nothing. I've personally never tried it, so no first hand experience from me.
Not being able to 'hide' a 7" screen was the reason why I went for a fold out unit.
I've seen plenty of people try the mdf cutout thing before and have only got mixed results back. Some say its the greatest thing ever, others say it does nothing. I've personally never tried it, so no first hand experience from me.
Not being able to 'hide' a 7" screen was the reason why I went for a fold out unit.
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