Goodwin BBK which one?

[16bit]

Ok I have pretty much decided I want the Goodwin BBK. However I am not sure which one to get. I am tossing up between the front 6pot kit for additional bling and the fact its a better caliper (flow forged, stainless pistons, bigger pad area etc) and getting the 4pot front and rear kit. both are about the same cost with the 6pot kit being cheaper to ship by just over 100us. My current rear brakes are more or less stock with QFM A1RM pads and slotted rotors. Logically I should get the 4pot front and rear kit as it will have less unsprung weight and be more ballanced on paper. what do you all think? I am after responses on the kit not telling me its overkill. Thanks

[16bit]

also a note that I will be getting the version 4 either way.

[16bit]

Ok I have been asking purely about the goodwin willwood based kits. I am now considering an apracing kit however I have a few concerns. The first is clearance but I will be able to check that tonight with templates.

Ok the ap kit uses the stock bracket which is quite heavy and the goodwin uses billet alloy

The ap caliper has alloy pistons where the wilwood has stainless steel which i understand is not as good at reduing heat transfer within the caliper.

thats about it as they are a very similar cost atm.

[16bit]

i can confirm that the ap racing kit does not fit but the goodwin one scrapes in by a couple of mm.

[d-mag]

No response? I'll have a go.

If it were me, I'd get the front and rear. I can't tell you why. I just would.

6 piston seems like a bit of overkill IMO (then again, I don't know much )

[16bit]

yeah i think I will just get the front kit for now as I have now got the cams and things to do as well. I can always get the rear kit later on.

[d-mag]

Glad I could help.

[CT]

AP Racing calipers far exceed the quality, braking ability and anything else you wish to mention when compared to Wilwood caliper from my experience. The other combination I would consider are Brembo or Alcon. Wilwood are designed primarily for dirt track applications and have a tendency to bend and flex in a tarmac situation. On a road car, upgrading a caliper will do stuff all. the most important thing to consider is the size of the rotor and the increased lever arm a larger rotor will provide. This of course also adds to the increased thermal capacity of the braking system as a whole as does a larger pad. If your car has factory ABS, you don't need to touch the rears as the proportioning will be controlled with the ABS unit and different spec pads.

An NA race car with stock rotors/calipers and hawk blue pads can do 1:25s on the QR circuit all day...if only for the street....big brakes are a decent waste of money. If for the track, then do it right with bigger rotors and quality 4 pot calipers with the correct piston sizes to ensure the master cylinder works properly and the pedal ratio is maintained. Knowing which compound pads are available for a particular caliper is also pretty handy before making decisions. Common calipers have plenty of choice.

[little decks]

hey mate,

i have to say that my dad recently colaborated several high quality components to pretty much give you the brakes you need for a track application. when racing on the goodwin willwood package i recall his frustration on losing to a porsche 993 rscs purely from being outbraked. he decided the willwoods for all intensive purposes were crap. he now runs a slotted 4-pot ap racing caliper on the fronts and custom hats and dog bones with 296mm (for 16" wheels) or 315mm (for 17" wheels) dba vented rotors. in this package dad put longer wheel studs aswell to allow for the front wheel spacing that the new hats provide. he spent alot of time researching the volume of the calipers so that the ones used have a very similar capacity to standard meaning the pedal travel will not be affected. the hats and dog bones are machined from billet aluminium and anodized in any requested colour.
the kit also comes with adr approved braided lines.

with the rears i think it was decided that the nb1800 rears were ideal to compliment the high quality front rakes, with simply using good quality pads.

i hope that was helpful.

[16bit]

AP Racing calipers far exceed the quality, braking ability and anything else you wish to mention when compared to Wilwood caliper from my experience. The other combination I would consider are Brembo or Alcon. Wilwood are designed primarily for dirt track applications and have a tendency to bend and flex in a tarmac situation. On a road car, upgrading a caliper will do stuff all. the most important thing to consider is the size of the rotor and the increased lever arm a larger rotor will provide. This of course also adds to the increased thermal capacity of the braking system as a whole as does a larger pad. If your car has factory ABS, you don't need to touch the rears as the proportioning will be controlled with the ABS unit and different spec pads.

An NA race car with stock rotors/calipers and hawk blue pads can do 1:25s on the QR circuit all day...if only for the street....big brakes are a decent waste of money. If for the track, then do it right with bigger rotors and quality 4 pot calipers with the correct piston sizes to ensure the master cylinder works properly and the pedal ratio is maintained. Knowing which compound pads are available for a particular caliper is also pretty handy before making decisions. Common calipers have plenty of choice.

thanks mate. just a question are you comparing the forged wilwoods or the billet willwoods? I have tried the template for the apracing calipers and they simply do not fit. I would need to use a 10mm spacer. trust me i would prefer the apracing units if they would fit. what about hi spec from the uk - are they any good?

[16bit]

also the ap racing kit has a smaller disk.

[16bit]

ok I have a cunning plan. I am finding out if I can just get the goodwin kit minus the calipers - this is because everything else about the kit seems to be spot on with the dba 5000's, brakets etc. Then I was thinking of interchanging those calipers with these ones.

http://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/calipers/R ... nalite.htm

They are a direct replacement and seem to be up to the task of track work. They are a race caliper and seem to be a good compromise somewhere between the wilwood and apracing unit. I have also asked hispec if they can supply there road kit with this race caliper and a 2 piece disk. thanks for putting the brakes on this decision CT (pun intended) - good advice as usual.

[Okibi]

Pixola has 4pot APs that JUST fit inside the stock 15" NB wheels. Pretty sure it's using the standard studs (custom hats)

If you're going big front brakes I'd also consider upgrading the rear brakes (even if it's just moving them further out with bigger discs) and adjustable brake bias. The rear brakes on the MX are pretty meh.

I don't know if this is what the track guys do but it will make help with your handbrake turns.

I know Warwick's old SR20DET MX-5 is now running a hydrologic handbrake.

[16bit]

yeah i would like to do the rear brakes with a bigger disk at least. I am now considering a tarox kit. Its 6pot but has about the same piston area as most or all of the 4 pot kits. it also has the biggest disk to fit under 15's and has the biggest pad. So it would seem that on paper it has the most potential. However I am going to continue to research for more options.

[CT]

If your car has ABS, you don't need to touch the rear, just use better pads and rotors as the max it ever does is ~20%. If you do not have ABS, you may need to upgrade to the NB8B rears and play with rear pads but possibly add an adjustable rear bias valve and remove the factory bias valve to get it right.