Wun started installing a clutch

[Fatty]

man, all those braces look very heavy! you should just leave them off the car... and give them to me!

are you going to need a hand at any stage? i could probably come over on saturday, i'm busy tomorrow tho.

[Stu]

Wun - word of caution...

DO NOT USE BRICKS OR PAVERS ..... Just DO NOT ....

They can crack and shatter under suprisingly little weight ....

Wood is your friend ....

You have been very safe up to this point, please keep it that way !

Wood Blocks, not brick / cement, please
J

Good advice

[wun911]

Funny your prefer wood, I've had a stump split while holding up a car. I have considered the safety don't worry I'm not under the car at anypoint when im jacking from the diff just need to turn the wheel a bit. (I cant push the car fwd its the end of the ramp cant push the car back the giant ramps will want to tilt down and the car will roll off the ramp) Im still a bit uneasy about it Im just thinking at the moment. Im not sure but I will solve this issue tomrow and take pics.

Yes the bracing heavy don't worry no job performed by wun has ever been completed without the use of an angle the grinder.

Sorry no diff mouts enough work to do as it is, it's quite a workout should have lost some weight I'm sure I can easily beat FFG at badminton now.

Fatty you have a PM.

Just wanted to confirm the weight of some stuff:



It really is a 9 pound flywheel (when I picked it up I thought it weighed more)

[wun911]

Happy easter everyone I woke up early to do some work.

I have pulled the drive shaft out this morning, I couldn't jack the car from the diff to rotate the wheels. Instead I used a 14 mm wrench (in the pic) and put it though the hole in the PPF to undo the last drive shaft bolt. I put all the nuts back for safe keeping.


I'm a week little asian boy and I dont want to be crushed by a gear box as I pull it out. I have used a long piece of wood as shown in the pic below it goes across both sides of the ramps and it will suport my gear box as I pull it out (I have tested it by standing on it). The other end of the gear box is held by the rope going though to where the gear leaver used to be.



The most difficult bolt to remove today in my opnion is this 12 mm nut (the wrench is on it in the pic) it holds a bracket that holds wires to the bell housing and I think it also holds part of the starter motor, there is very little room to swing the wrench on one side is clutch line and on the other side is break lines, and there is very little leverage for weak asian kids.



Gear box should be out by lunch time hopefully

[sliq]

keep it up wun

[kazjim]

Ok Wun, its started ....

Mine is up on the Ramps / Stands and the gearbox is draining ...

Looks like I've got a pretty clear advantage - no bracing at all !

after lunch I'll drop the exhaust and the driveshaft and start into the gearbox bolts ...

Hardest part looks to be the re-installation of the box - always hard .. might have to rope Mrs KazJim into it ....
Neighbor is away, dad's away ... the 8 year old isnt much help ....

Cheers
J

(PS She says she will do it without the surgical gloves or pine-o clean !! - she really thinks you should get dirty!)

[wun911]

Its lunch time and the the gearbox is out of the car I didn't have the muscle to pull it out I got on my back and used my feet to kick it out...

The piece of wood has helped me a lot! I couldn't carry the weight of the gear box its just too heavy for weak asian kids.




After lunch I will take the flywheel out and install my new lightweight 9 pound flywheel in. I will also clean out the bell housing all the clutch dust is added weight.

Actually in hindsight what I should have done here is put another piece of wood to suport the back of the gear box, undo the rope I would also use this same pice of wood to give suport to the PPF so its not pulling on any of the wires. Then move the gear box away from the engine on the bits of wood just far away enough so I can install the flywheel... This way I dont have to lift the gear box up again and I would slide the wood back towards the engine and push the bell housing back into place (The week asian has to think harder).

[fastfreddygassit]

Kudos to you Wun! You are doing very well..I am officially impressed

[wun911]

Ok I had lunch and I have removed the flywheel from the car pic below.


I have a major concern, the area circled in red is kinda greasy / oily, is the seal that is behind the flywheel on its way out? Should I replace it OR is this normal can may I proceed with installing my new flywheel or should I wait till wednesday and get the part?


This is the old clutch cover plate and the frictional material, it looks a little glazed and burnt out, but there is plenty of frictional material left ie its not down the the rivits like fattys old clutch.


To lock the flywheel in place I could not use a pipe wedged from the ground to the flywheel because the car is too high off the ground. Instead I installed a bell housing bolt and wedged a screwdriver between it and the bolt the bolt is a 17mm and the screwdriver never touches the thread. The tip of the screwdriver is circled in yellow and the bolt is circled in green.

[kazjim]

I'm not far behind you Wun -quick question ..

How are you supporting your engine ?

Are they well enough balanced that i you dont need a third support ? (ie two engine mounts)
My old V8s and things used to tip back at this point ... the MX doesnt seem to .....

J

[wun911]

when we did fattys we didnt support the engin...

we prefer if the engin tips back a bit helps us get the box back in so sometimes people push down on the back of the engin to do this...

it seems to be secure not falling on me that is....

im still not sure about the little bit of oil behind the flywheel....

[Wuey]

Wun, it's hard to tell from the pic whether your rear crank seal is on the way out. It could be due to the worn sealant between the the oil pan and the rear crank seal cover. I gather that that cover can be a real bitch to reinstall once you have it out. You might also want to confirm whether the oil has leaked from a worn CAS seal up on top of the engine. I thought you were going to replace the rear crank seal since you're going to handle this big task.

kazjim, once you have the gearbox unhitched, the engine will not balance on itself as it will pitch towards the front of the car. You can use a large block of wood placed on a trolley jack like this or get another pair of hands to push the rear of the engine downward while you try to couple the gearbox with the engine.

Edit: to push the rear rather than the front of the engine

[Fatty]

is that the rear main seal leaking?

i bought a new seal kit for mine but we didn't end up using it as mine wasn't leaking.

i think you might need to visit your local mazda dealer , iirc it costs about $50. however i would wait for some experienced forum members to confirm my diagnosis.

the other option is to grab mine, but i doubt whether the 1.6 and 1.8 seals are compatible?

[Fatty]

is that the rear main seal leaking?

i bought a new seal kit for mine but we didn't end up using it as mine wasn't leaking.

i think you might need to visit your local mazda dealer , iirc it costs about $50. however i would wait for some experienced forum members to confirm my diagnosis.

the other option is to grab mine, but i doubt whether the 1.6 and 1.8 seals are compatible?

*edit - didn't see wuey's post prior to posting

[Wuey]

That seal cost me about $40 with club member discount a few years back at Mulgrave Mazda. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at Fatty's seal. Unless you have a large cut-off pvc pipe to drive in the seal with even force, it's a real bitch to reinstall but it can be done with a bit of ingenuity.