Brake Pedal going to the floor...
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- Fuzzlet
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
Well interestingly, the car had a very soft brake pedal before putting in the speed bleeders. Fluid was maybe 2 months old when at the track. I'll take it to a decent brake workshop and get them to take a look at it
Current: Red 04 SE (Slightly modified) - 133rwkw@7psi - Winner of the Mania Dyno Day 2008
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
time for SS lines...
I used teflon tape for one of my speed bleeders (I hope this is ok)
I used teflon tape for one of my speed bleeders (I hope this is ok)
every ounce counts
- TieNN89
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
CT wrote:Ignition opens the valves in the ABS unit to let any trapped air escape into the lines so it can be bled.
what about on a car without ABS?
- HIC-45S
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
AZNTieN wrote:CT wrote:Ignition opens the valves in the ABS unit to let any trapped air escape into the lines so it can be bled.
what about on a car without ABS?
I'm pretty sure you need the engine running for any brake fluid flush as the vacuum from the engine helps force the fluid into your lines (and air out should it be there)
Pete, I know what you need to do!
Step 1: Go halves with me in a full set of R33 GT-R Brembos.
Step 2: Help me swap my brakes with said Brembos
Step 3: I'll help you install my Sumitomo brakes onto your MX-5 (don't worry, you can grind away the part that says "Nissan" )
Step 4: ???
Step 5: Profit!
Sure it might not be possible to bolt them to your car with out overboard modification and sure you might have EXTREME front bias in a relatively neutral car and sure you will need to get at least 16" wheels to clear the calipers, but it will be the most unique brake set up on a Mazda EVAR!
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"We produced with Spartan air"
"We produced with Spartan air"
- GS
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
HIC-45S wrote:AZNTieN wrote:CT wrote:Ignition opens the valves in the ABS unit to let any trapped air escape into the lines so it can be bled.
what about on a car without ABS?
I'm pretty sure you need the engine running for any brake fluid flush as the vacuum from the engine helps force the fluid into your lines (and air out should it be there)
Pete, I know what you need to do!
Step 1: Go halves with me in a full set of R33 GT-R Brembos.
Step 2: Help me swap my brakes with said Brembos
Step 3: I'll help you install my Sumitomo brakes onto your MX-5 (don't worry, you can grind away the part that says "Nissan" )
Step 4: ???
Step 5: Profit!
Sure it might not be possible to bolt them to your car with out overboard modification and sure you might have EXTREME front bias in a relatively neutral car and sure you will need to get at least 16" wheels to clear the calipers, but it will be the most unique brake set up on a Mazda EVAR!
Actually, i have a feeling thats been done already. I believe some of the race guys have done the Skyline brake conversion. I havent heard of anyone installing them on a MX5 road car though (probably because of the legalities/engineering involved i guess).
1989 NA6
- CT
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
AZNTieN wrote:CT wrote:Ignition opens the valves in the ABS unit to let any trapped air escape into the lines so it can be bled.
what about on a car without ABS?
No abs valves, no need.
As for race cars, most of us use AP 4 piston racing calipers, with big rotors - mine are 296mm x 26mm with custom made alloy hats. I use Hawk DTC70 pads (some use Hawk Blues) on the front and Porterfield R4 pads on the rear with ABS and stock calipers. The skyline conversion is not as good as it might sound.
2006 Z06 Corvette - 650hp of wow!
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
Does pumping the brake pedal restore feel?
All of the above suggestions...
but don't forget to also check (ie if bleeding the brakes doesn't do it!):
- slider pins running dry and sticking (ie lubricate with hi temp. lubricant)
- possibility of pads backing off fractionally - you then need to additionally 'close the gap' before the pads contact the rotor which thus gives a low pedal feel
All of the above suggestions...
but don't forget to also check (ie if bleeding the brakes doesn't do it!):
- slider pins running dry and sticking (ie lubricate with hi temp. lubricant)
- possibility of pads backing off fractionally - you then need to additionally 'close the gap' before the pads contact the rotor which thus gives a low pedal feel
2006 True Red 6 Speed - stock currently... (Still!???)
- Fuzzlet
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Brake Pedal going to the floor...
Pumping the brake pedal does restore feel, however I think I've found the source of the problem. The pads only have around 3mm of meat left on them. They've only done 9k kms and 3 track days...
Current: Red 04 SE (Slightly modified) - 133rwkw@7psi - Winner of the Mania Dyno Day 2008
Previous: Titanium 04 SE (Standard)
White 94 NA (Severely Modified) - 180rwkw - Runner up at the Mania Dyno Day 2007
Previous: Titanium 04 SE (Standard)
White 94 NA (Severely Modified) - 180rwkw - Runner up at the Mania Dyno Day 2007
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Re: Brake Pedal going to the floor...
What is the brake pedal supposed to feel like? I seem to be getting about maybe 1/4 or 1/5th of pedal travel before encountering resistance. Could this be air in the brake lines? I have bled the system with about 1L of fluid, which is twice as much as what everyone has suggested, so I hope I don't have to use any more?!?!
What about adjusting the brake pedal; is that something that people do?
What about adjusting the brake pedal; is that something that people do?
- Steampunk
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Re: Brake Pedal going to the floor...
mitch_f1 wrote:I have bled the system with about 1L of fluid, which is twice as much as what everyone has suggested, so I hope I don't have to use any more?!?!
A leak somewhere? Is this a slow degradation over time or fairly sudden? If it's right after a motorsport event, it can be boiled fluid.
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Re: Brake Pedal going to the floor...
I did the brakes (new front pads, braided lines, and fluid with a complete system flush), and went for a drive and it was like that. It was also pretty much the same before doing said activities.
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