I possibly know what your problem.
After my car went for its last service to replace the clutch pedal it never felt right. The take-up point was different but I thought it was just a matter of getting used to it. A week or so later the first 50mm of travel was very soft so I thought that it must need bleeding, so I did that and still it was no better.
Finally after I almost couldn’t engage the clutch because the pedal was so low, I decided that it must be the install job done by the dealer so I went searching to see what they done wrong and this is what I found
Coming through the fire wall from the clutch master cylinder is a rod that connects to the clutch pedal arm. This rod is threaded so you can adjust the take-up point to your desired height and then set in place by a locking nut that tightens against the pedal arm. In my case the dealer service apprentice hadn’t tighten the locking nut down tight enough and it came loose. I know how this happened because it is a bitch to get to and tighten. So the rod had worked its way in towards the master cylinder, meaning every time I pushed the clutch in there was less and less actual throw of the piston in the master cylinder.
At this point you need to become a contortionist and twist at funny angles to see how to nip up the lock nut.
Initially I fixed mine so the there was little downward pedal movement before it became firm. Bad move as I needed to lift my foot too far to get take-up. So another 15 minutes of fiddling to get the firm pressure down about 25mm or so and get the lock nut tightened up. There is a split washer on the pin that holds the rod to the clutch pedal arm and it may be easier to pop that off and tighten the lock nut up with the two parts separated.
So there you have it. Reach in and if you can turn the rod by hand the lock nut is loose and that’s your problem.
) , and after 15 minutes of complaining, the best they could offer was a tow truck to a dealership tomorrow morning.
