Gutter damage- Wheel bearings? CV joints? Diff?

[philz]

Well cut a long story short, the back end went out, tried to fix it straight, but hit my REAR LEFT wheels face on the gutter at around 30-40km/h.

Luckily there is no "major" damage, just a guttered wheel, wheel out of whack, and steering wheel off centered.

Went to Alignment shop-
Rear left:
toe out: -42mm, he pulled it back to -15mm, which is the max he can pull it back.

From visual inspections, nothing seems to be cracked or bent.

So he thought it might be a bent hub.

The car drives straight, doesnt pull to the side, there doesnt seem to be any bad vibrations at higher speeds.

However, there is the grinding/scraping metal to metal sound, which is speed affected, but the funny thing is that it doesn't happen straight away when I drive, it only happens sometimes.

I've also jacked up the car and wobbled the wheel to check if it's a wheel bearing, but it doesn't seem to have any play.

Problems:
- Sound coming from rear left, scraping sound speed affected
- Why can't "alignment dude" pull back the toe in.

[blue_na]

I would go to Pedders and get a 28 point check for $14... pretty cheap and they may pick up on something you may have missed.

[stevesports]

lol!!! exact same thing happened to me. Left rear wheel as well.

i fixed it by

1. replacing my alloy wheel (it was bent)
2. replaced hub
3. replaced a control arm bolt
4. wheel alignment

and all is well.

[blue_na]

lol!!! exact same thing happened to me. Left rear wheel as well.

i fixed it by

1. replacing my alloy wheel (it was bent)
2. replaced hub
3. replaced a control arm bolt
4. wheel alignment

and all is well.

Mine was the rear right wheel... does that say something about the NB8B rims or just the people who have them?

[philz]

Thanks Stevesports.

Mine is an NB8A, the wheel still held up though.
Yes I did some researching prior to this thread, and I was looking at your thread.
But wasn't sure what the outcome was.

Just a few questions, where did you get the hub? CBC bearing [http://www.conbear.com]?


Also I was thinking of getting a pedders 28 point, but I've heard some places didn't do much help at all, and missed the entire problem all together, and they always recommend getting new shocks.
But for $14 doesn't hurt to try.

[blue_na]

Mine wasn't quite as bad, I only had to replace the wheel and get an alignment.

They didn't recomend new shocks for me, all they said needed replacing was the rear stab bar bushes (not gutter related) and a wheel alignment. (I got the check after replacing the wheel)

Even if they do miss something, for $14 its still not bad for another set of eyes that could find the problem.

[stevesports]

it appears that the NB8B wheel is quite soft then. In any case, mine was sourced second hand. i'm unsure where it is sourced because my mechanic did it all for me.

it costed approx $280 iirc.

[grump]

I had a Pedders check and if you read the result you would have thought i had taken the car there on a tilt tray. They said i needed a new steering rack and ball joints as well as a big list of other things. I had had the steering rack and ball joints checked the day before and they were perfect, so I didn't really get any help from their check. just left me p....sed off.

[CJ5]

Problems:
- Sound coming from rear left, scraping sound speed affected
- Why can't "alignment dude" pull back the toe in.

had the same sort of thing - alignment was wayyy out, but even after fixing it, there was the noise and it would only get noticeable at abt 40kmh

turned out to be the wheel bearing - replaced it (and the CV joint got munted too) and all good now.

[philz]

Hmm, I'm 90% sure it's wheel bearing, but not sure if I should also replace the hub as well.

But would replacing the wheel bearing also fix the toe?

I just don't understand why he can't dial in anymore toe...

But it also might be a fcked bolt from the LCA.

So I might have to go to Pedders, even though it might be shonky.

[philz]

Just another question:

Is the front hub assembly the same as the rear hub?

Because I know that you can get a Front hub + bearing, whereas they only sell the rear wheel bearing only.

[Caffeine]

Just another question:

Is the front hub assembly the same as the rear hub?

Because I know that you can get a Front hub + bearing, whereas they only sell the rear wheel bearing only.

Nope, the front and rear hubs are different, and have different sized nuts holding them on too. (34mm vs 32 I think)

The front wheel bearing is available as a hub assembly only, cost me about $130 each when I did mine (mine had the ABS encoder on them though, it may be cheaper without).

The rear is the bearing by itself and is a bit more difficult to replace. Cost was about $50 in parts If I remember correctly.

The rear wheel bearing is actually the same as the front wheel bearing on one of the models of the 323

[blue_na]

Yeah, rear wheel bearing is the same as the front on 323/Laser. $65 on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-LASER-KF-KH ... .m20.l1116

[Caffeine]

Yeah, rear wheel bearing is the same as the front on 323/Laser. $65 on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-LASER-KF-KH ... .m20.l1116

Head to CBC bearings, brand new in box for $50ish

[philz]

Well got a better diagnoses,

Bent upper and lower control arms.
Wheel bearing mcfucked.
And a bent bolt, i forget what it's called, it's long.


Mmmm costly..