Bonnet Scoop - Air Vents for Cooling

[MX5CHIC]

Yes sure - my pleasure

[Alex]

Now that I'm back to stock I'm again looking at other intakes
I really like the one that SuperMazdaKart posted and found a few more pics of it as well.
For a good list of various alternative intakes go through the thead here

If you can't be bothered reading through it here are my favorites.
All of them seem to take air from above the radiator which hasn't yet been heated but I'm not sure if they are true "ram" air types but certainly get air cooler than the engine bay.

Engine.jpg

DSC_0008.jpg

05-13-08_1739.jpg

edit: also found the Jackson Racing one online, it's $298 US too bad it's only listed for NA's

[NMX516]

While not an easy operation, I have a CAI of sorts in my other car which you might be able replicate to some extent... Long story short, it consists of a K&N pod filter mounted below and behind the radiator. I have ducting made up to direct air up into the filter from underneath the car. A heat shield is then mounted between the bottom edge of the radiator, and bends upwards into the engine bay to go over the top of the filter so as to keep radiator heat away from the filter.

Downsides? Steer well clear of deep puddles, and the duct is off the car at the moment due to cracking it on a parking bollard

As for my NB8A, I have one of these installed, along with some ACL heat shield on the exhaust manifold... Seems to work well, noticeably improved throttle response, and sounds great at WOT

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... 001NB.html

[NMX516]

Ok, have been doing some more thinking on this, and here's a suggestion from left field!...

Cut a section out of the plastic "sump guard" to take the bottom half of the air filter box mounted on a forward facing angle. Cut the lower section of the base of the air box off to allow large quantities of cold air to pass through the filter. Using the std air box allows the panel filter to be retained and also makes integration of the air temp sensor and afm a bit easier. Ducting could/should also be made to direct air up into the air box - think upside down WRX bonnet scoop perhaps! . The wider the scoop is, the lower profile it could be, but will then have to channel back to the width of the filter box.... I would make up something out of sheet metal which tapers up to the rear edge of the air filter, and protrudes down maybe 30mm or so. The air running up against the bottom of the sump guard would then be forced up into the air filter. If far enough forward, ground clearance shouldn't be greatly affected as I think that the sump guard is mounted higher at the front, yes? Custom piping from afm to throttle body would of course be necessary, as would mounting brackets.... I haven't gone and looked under the bonnet to see how this might work, but thought it might be an idea worth sharing

Also, this would of course be much more discreet than any bonnet or front guard or bumper mods.

[Okibi]

my first ever CAI was a funnel that sat just under the lip of the car and piped air up into the stock airbox via some aircon ducting. Get lots of radiant heat off the road during the day.

[NMX516]

Hmm, good point Okibi...

[grump]

to all those people that showed interest in an air scoop between the bonnet and screen, I will be making a prototype up over xmas, the installation will require cutting a section out of the plastic shroud at the bottom of the screen, to some of us that won't be a problem ,for others cutting anything is a no no. I fully understand . there is no other way to get space for the scoop to fit into. The price will be cheap. i.e. less than $100 with a carbon finish. the mounts will be moulded into the scoop and will pick up existing screw holes that hold the plastic shroud at the bottom of the screen. this will be a very professional item and not a dodgy mod. so watch this space, I'll post some pics as soon as I get started.

[GS]

Ok, have been doing some more thinking on this, and here's a suggestion from left field!...

Cut a section out of the plastic "sump guard" to take the bottom half of the air filter box mounted on a forward facing angle. Cut the lower section of the base of the air box off to allow large quantities of cold air to pass through the filter. Using the std air box allows the panel filter to be retained and also makes integration of the air temp sensor and afm a bit easier. Ducting could/should also be made to direct air up into the air box - think upside down WRX bonnet scoop perhaps! . The wider the scoop is, the lower profile it could be, but will then have to channel back to the width of the filter box.... I would make up something out of sheet metal which tapers up to the rear edge of the air filter, and protrudes down maybe 30mm or so. The air running up against the bottom of the sump guard would then be forced up into the air filter. If far enough forward, ground clearance shouldn't be greatly affected as I think that the sump guard is mounted higher at the front, yes? Custom piping from afm to throttle body would of course be necessary, as would mounting brackets.... I haven't gone and looked under the bonnet to see how this might work, but thought it might be an idea worth sharing

Also, this would of course be much more discreet than any bonnet or front guard or bumper mods.

BEGI make a scoop thats similar to what you're suggesting. Whilst the intention of their scoop is different (bypass an intercooler and scoop air directly to the radiator), the execution sounds similar.

http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=5_19&products_id=67

[4sfed5]

whoops double post

[4sfed5]

have a look at the full length cold air box i made when i went turbo. Testing with a k type thermo couple showed a significant decrease in intake temps with it fitted. made from a plastic sheet that is sandwiched by aluminium. (made by mitsubishi plastics) its very light and has good thermal rejection. i also fitted some boot rubber to the top edge to seal up against the bonnet

http://miata.cardomain.com/ride/264041/6

[Jeo]

have a look at the full length cold air box i made when i went turbo.

I was going to ask where it drew air from but then I noticed the headlight. Looks nice, basically what I had in mind for when I eventually get around to mine.

[matt9111]

G'day people!

A little while ago I posted on the forums that I did a dyno run and read 61.3rwkw.

My setup was just the standard NB8B intake piping minus the airbox, and in place of the airbox was a K&N pod filter.

After that I decided that there was more power to get out of it, so I removed the intake piping and put a 90 degree 3inch silicone hose directly onto the intake and then onto the AFM, then onto the K&N Pod, so the pod sits almost directly behind the driver side headlight, I thought I felt an increase in power. So today I went and got my car dynoed, and it got 66.7rkwk, nothing else has been changed and the temperature was about the same. So i'm quite pleased with how much difference a simple modification of the intake made.

The lowest increase in power was from low rpm, and it was still 3rwkw, i'll have to look at the dyno sheet again (its in the car) but im pretty sure he said I got a 10nm increase in torque aswell.

Not sure if anyone interested but im very pleased

Matty

[SuperMazdaKart]

your 02 1.8L NB only did 66.7rwkw???

[Blue94t]

Matt9111,
Don't worry about the actual no.s from the dyno, the % increase is the only thing worth concerning yourself with.
My old BP turbo had dyno sheets with figures ranging from 100rwkw - 180rwkw all on the same tune and boost, just on different dynos.
Dyno figures mean nothing unless you want to win dyno comps. How it drives is the important thing
Jake

[MX5CHIC]

I'm still working on designs and materials for my new intake system but the main issue is to provide a smooth path for the airflow where any bends and restrictions are reduced to an absolute minimum, the simple 90 Degree Bend does this beautifully.
One thing that is very noticeable with my NB8A is the Spark Plugs, comparing the standard intake system against the "standard" K&N System - the original system ran quite rich with the plugs looking almost black, and now the plugs are very nearly white in colour.
I have always used 98 Octane Premium Fuel with both systems, so I would be assuming that the standard intake does cause the engine to run quite rich due to the many restrictions in it's design as both systems draw their intake air from under the bonnet (Approx 60 Deg C ) ...... interesting - now my next move is to get cooler air to the filter which will (should?) run the engine slightly richer thus increasing power output (extra power + more responsive = good) ..... back to work