Small hole in AIR INTAKE! could this be my hesitation prob?

[Dweezle]

I have had a ongoing hesitation problem when i plant my foot. Changed plugs, leads etc. it felt better, engine smooth etc but still that hesitation.
Then when i just changed my radiator to a COOLING PRO i noticed that the small spring clip holding that weird little hose from the thermostat housing has actually been rubbing against the large INTAKE pipe and now made a hole.
Could this be the source of my problems? Could i just run a piece of like GAFF tape over the hole and move the clip around? Or is this way to GHETTO

[RG.net]

cant hurt to try the gaff tape, i'm guessing its the stock piping? just give it a go with the gaff tape and if you feel it makes any improvements then tape it up nicely and source another pipe.

[Hellmun]

Is the hole before or after the Airflow meter? I've not really had an AFM on my car long but I know Irwin8er had stumbles and the car dying whenever his afm came loose at the track which could be similar.

Gaffa tape won't live that long under the vacuum I wouldn't think, depends on what the pipe is made out of how easy it is to repair. I'd probaly just use 2 hose clamps and a cut-off of rubber if I needed the car quickly.

[RG.net]

oh yes, forgot to ask, how big is the hole?

[Dweezle]

The hole is only a small slit, like imagine you pushed a large-ish flat blade screwdriver through the pipe behind the radiator.

[JBT]

If it's between the AFM and the intake you need to plug/tape it up. The ECU is working of the flow through the AFM and isn't conting on any extra from a hole. Your mixture will be lean and the car won't run right.

[NMX516]

Yep, that'll do it...

[Dweezle]

i fixed the HOLE, but it didnt really fix anything.. i still have a lil hestitation prob yet to be solved. kinda frustrating. especially when cold.

[bensale]

Does it have a short nose crank?

Before I had mine fixed I had some hesitation problems when cold, the car seemed fine once it warmed up... Once I had it fixed the hesitation problem went away. I would highly recomend that you look into this as if the problem is diagnosed early enough you can fix it rather than needing a new engine. Sorry to alarm you but it is possible that this is the problem.

Otherwise also chech the tension of the throttle cable, the car becomes much more responsive when you have that properly tensioned.

[Dweezle]

hmmmm i have wondered about that... eeeeek
It doesnt seem to have any play, but really WHAT DO I KNOW.. haha.
Is there a way i can find out? Should i take it somewhere? I am in GOSFORD NSW.
What do they do to fix it? is it just that liquid metal stuff? like make a new keyway?
How much did it cost you?
wow who thought i could have so many questions

[bensale]

Mine developed some play, although that seemed to happen quite suddenly which really perplexed me. I got some great advice through this thread viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32405&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=SNC&start=15 I had a noticeable wobble in my pully and was advised that I perhaps had a bent crank. However thanks to the forum I was able find out that it infact wasn't bent.

To find out for sure whether or not the keyway is damaged you have to do the equivelant a timing belt change in labour, it's a lot of work. I would be interested to here from Cheyne on this to see if his pully had any play, he recently had the same problem which resulted in an engine change. However like me there was no noticable loss of engine power which goes against the conventional information. I would also be interested to know if he had any cold hesitation.

Mine was fixed via the locktite liquid metal method, 4000kms later its still good and I am confident of it holding. I guess it could be possible to make a new keyway however I'm not sure if its been down. To just replace the crank results in a full engine rebuild, not cheap...

Luckily I needed a timing belt change anyway. I shopped around a lot, the cheapest price I found for someone to do the job was $800. I ended up spending a bit more to take it to the place I felt would do the best job and also got a lot of other parts done at the same time such as waterpump, tensioners etc, about $1000. If you have the means do the job yourself do it. In retrospect I should have found a way to make it happen. I priced up the parts locally and was looking at $400 worth of parts if I did it myself, however I have since found that you can buy a lot of the parts cheaper overseas.

If you dont have a wobble then I would maybe not worry quite yet. However, get a good light and take a really good look at it to see if there is any movement. If you are due for a timing belt change sometime in the near future perhaps move it forward a little.

I'm from Melbourne so I'm not great with NSW geography. But Gosford is North of Sydney right. Probebly a bit to far from places like Mania so I cant help with a shop, sorry...

[CheyneX5]

Mine developed some play, although that seemed to happen quite suddenly which really perplexed me. I got some great advice through this thread http://mx5cartalk.com/phpBB-3.0.2/viewt ... C&start=15 I had a noticeable wobble in my pully and was advised that I perhaps had a bent crank. However thanks to the forum I was able find out that it infact wasn't bent.

To find out for sure whether or not the keyway is damaged you have to do the equivelant a timing belt change in labour, it's a lot of work. I would be interested to here from Cheyne on this to see if his pully had any play, he recently had the same problem which resulted in an engine change. However like me there was no noticable loss of engine power which goes against the conventional information. I would also be interested to know if he had any cold hesitation.

Mine was fixed via the locktite liquid metal method, 4000kms later its still good and I am confident of it holding. I guess it could be possible to make a new keyway however I'm not sure if its been down. To just replace the crank results in a full engine rebuild, not cheap...

my engine did hesitate a bit in the cold, especially in low speeds and first gear, at speeds around 50 in 4th gear and pressing foot down a little it almost felt that i had a slipping clutch but it was the pully wobbling to my suprise, it was ever so slight but it was definatly doing it.

if you can afford it grab a long nose engine, my one is doing G-R-E-A-T, tad more power and more torque too.

i hope this helps and good to see yours is still going strong ben

[bensale]

Hey Sasso, sorry to hear you still have the same problem.

Yours sounds different to the one i had. My issue occured when I tried to accelerate when the engine was cold. It mainly occured when I engaged 2nd gear, the car would go nowhere (it felt like the handbrake was left on) and then a surge of acceleration. It sometimes occured in any other gear, probebly between 2-3000 rpm. On some mornings I would have the problem in 1st, 2nd and 3rd... It also occured very occasionally when the car was warm, but some temp in the engine took away 99.9% of the problem.

The problem went away completely after having the keyway repaired. I dont have your hesitation problem at all. Is the throttle cable tense? That fixed some issues for me.

[Dweezle]

yeh.. i dont think i have your prob SASSO. sounds more like Bensales.. Really noticible on a cold start... then once warmed up not as bad. but if i jab the throttle still there in low gears.
I really think i need the LOCTITE PROCEDURE done.. MANIA won't do it, and i would like to get a long nose engine, but i dont really have that cash right now.
So i might have to read up on it all and try to fix it myself.

I have also noticed at idle the car seems to vibrate more than i noticed before. like its running rough, but its idle speed seems spot on.

[bensale]

Not good to hear mate... Have you had a closer look to see if there is a wobble? To try to fix is a big job, make sure you have all the right tools and work space before you attempt it. If you want to get a new engine there is also the option of just running yours as is, it shouldn't fail for quite some time.

With the idle...Do you find that the idle dips as you pull up to traffic lights? Basically the car will shake a bit and then get smooth. If so its your manual idle speed. Basically the ECU takes a few seconds to take over the idle speed, if the manual idle is set too low.