I Painted My Na6 Daisy Wheels *PICS PAGE 2&3*

CheyneX5 · Postby **CheyneX5** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 11:01 pm

as far as i can see my wheels dont look like they have paint on them atm, do they usually?

CheyneX5 · Postby **CheyneX5** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 12:09 pm

well i got the paint and primer today, i am going to do the big job on the weekend at a mates house.

decided that the colour is going to be gloss black, 2 tone was going to be too much of a head ache and gunmetal paint was no where to be found.

here it all is.

one more thing though, the stock na6 daisy wheels were not factory painted where they?

kitkat · Postby **kitkat** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:15 pm

For future reference... if anyone decides to go white, fridge paint works a treat. No etch / primer etc etc reuired, just sand / clean the surface and start spraying. I've used it on both the wheels and TB roll bar. :mrgreen:

GP14 · Postby **GP14** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 2:02 pm

Epoxy works great too. No primer, just sand, clean and spray a few coats. Comes in black and white and is glossy.

wun911 · Postby **wun911** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 2:17 pm

will it be done by thursday so you can show us the end results?

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 5:10 pm

I do not get the instant result thinking. Anyone who has done a bit of painting or even tackled a car will know that painting is 90% preparation. You use an etch prime or grey primer essentially to improve the keying of the top coat and in the latter instance to hide very minor blemishes- it is not hard to do and a well prepared and finished job is likely to be more durable and certainly look better.I assume that the VHT etch is a fast thin adhesion promotor. Minor blemishes are often magnified when painted- you think it is feathered well and you did not realise that the coarse paper leaves scratches- so then you need stop putty and another primer application and so it goes. Cheap paints are cheap for a good reason- they are made to a price. The job is already made much easier by such a range of products in easy to use pressure packs. The VHT seems to be an excellent. Incidentally for those that do not know grey primers can absorb water quite easily so you top coat fairly quickly and you do not paint on wet or cold days if you can avoid it. Cheyne looks all set to get a good result.

fastfreddygassit · Postby **fastfreddygassit** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:01 pm

Mr Morlock wrote:I do not get the instant result thinking. Anyone who has done a bit of painting or even tackled a car will know that painting is 90% preparation. You use an etch prime or grey primer essentially to improve the keying of the top coat and in the latter instance to hide very minor blemishes- it is not hard to do and a well prepared and finished job is likely to be more durable and certainly look better.

I understand your confusion but in this case it is only wheels that are being painted.
The NA6 wheel has a smooth surface on the rim lip and the front edge of the spokes but the rest (read majority) of the wheel has a rough, sand cast finish. So the finish is going to be compromised anyway. A long as it looks glossy/shiny then that is all that matters :mrgreen:

An etch primer is generally needed for wheels to get a better bond to the alloy. Standard (grey/white/matt black etc) primer will flake off too easily and will be more prone to chipping.
I agree with your comments regarding painting is at least 90% preparation but in this case I concur with the other forumites with just using export black paint.
Good luck Cheyne, I am sure it will look awesome

fastfreddygassit · Postby **fastfreddygassit** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:41 pm

ps. don't forget to take the wheel weights off! Just use a white marker on the tyre to indicate position....

Adam_NAclubman · Postby **Adam_NAclubman** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:05 pm

Mr Morlock wrote:I do not get the instant result thinking. Anyone who has done a bit of painting or even tackled a car will know that painting is 90% preparation. You use an etch prime or grey primer essentially to improve the keying of the top coat and in the latter instance to hide very minor blemishes- it is not hard to do and a well prepared and finished job is likely to be more durable and certainly look better.I assume that the VHT etch is a fast thin adhesion promotor. Minor blemishes are often magnified when painted- you think it is feathered well and you did not realise that the coarse paper leaves scratches- so then you need stop putty and another primer application and so it goes. Cheap paints are cheap for a good reason- they are made to a price. The job is already made much easier by such a range of products in easy to use pressure packs. The VHT seems to be an excellent. Incidentally for those that do not know grey primers can absorb water quite easily so you top coat fairly quickly and you do not paint on wet or cold days if you can avoid it. Cheyne looks all set to get a good result.

We reccomend it because it works and is perfect for cheap old or stock wheels. Of course it's going to be easier to chip, and it may not have the finish of a properly prepped and powdercoated job, but would you really want to spend $300+ on getting a $50 set of stock daisy wheels painted when you could find some pretty nice wheels for only a little bit more?

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:29 pm

Looking forward to seeing the results, the look should really suit your car.

Ben,

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:37 pm

FFG is right that a cast wheel does effectively have an etched surface however a flash of etch primer certainly is not going to be a bad thing. I had a recent experience in painting some storage racks- cheap Chinese spray cans and also some brand name cans - the difference was very marked- substantially better covering power on the dearer product. In the car industry paint is tested in labs as is plating before approval. Poor quality paint dies very fast- loses gloss and adhesion as well. Plated bolts is another case - most of the bolt places sell you clear zinc which has very poor corrosion resistance whereas the OE use far superior spec plating.

CheyneX5 · Postby **CheyneX5** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:53 pm

wun: i will be doing the painting this weekend so they will be ready hopefully by sunday, i will post pics when they are done.

ffg: what are the wheel weights, i know this may be a silly question but i have know idea what they are and where to find them.

ben: cheers mate, i am hoping they suit but i am quite confident they will.

mr morlock: thank you for the valuable info, very useful but again i have to agree with the forumites.

i am really excited about doing this, dont know why but i am. just to double check shound i use any oil and grime remover and should i sand them too just to be sure?

bensale · Postby **bensale** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:37 pm

The wheel weights are small pieces of metal (about 25mm long and 10mm wide) which balance the wheel. I think they are on the facing edge of my na wheels, inside the rim on the nb wheels.