SE Throttle Inlet

[Fuzzlet]

Question for the folks in SE's who have upgraded their throttle inlet pipe. Which brand did you go for and why?

[blackster]

I used the BEGi one as its identical to the OEM set up ie BOV and boost line holes. Mind you it took BEGi 3 go's over 5 months to get the holes and diameters right.

The FM pipe runs the BOV hole on the opposite side so its a little more difficult to run the recirculation hose. The FM TB pipe doesnt have a boost source hole, they believe in running the boost pre IC as opposed to post IC like the OEM set up.

[Brett_MX5]

Just hijacking for a sec

How much difference does it make using a solid pipe instead of the rubber balloon?

[Fuzzlet]

I would of thought running the boost after the IC would of been better....When my clubman was turbo we used to run the boost off the manifold


As for the rubber problem - it has been known to swell under standard boost, so as soon as u start putting a bit more in, it can lead to problems

[Brett_MX5]

As for the rubber problem - it has been known to swell under standard boost, so as soon as u start putting a bit more in, it can lead to problems

Yeah it puffs up quite a bit under boost - mines only getting up to 12 at the moment but thats about as far as I want to go without getting bigger injectors

[Fuzzlet]

Currently I want to change mine just for the blind. Its got the SPM exhaust and AEM intake, so a bit more polished pipe would look good. Its quite tempting to chip it to get rid of the whole 'rocket up its ass' at 5k rpm, but after the sh*t I went through with modifying my clubman I really dont want to haha

[PASHN8]

Fuzzlet, this 'rocket up its ass at 5k RPM', what exactly do you mean by that?

[MINX]

I have just fitted the AEM CAI.
Definitely all happens at 5k!
Particularly noticable in Third. She really screams up to the hard cut from about 5k.
Its like a 'second' boost, power comes in about 3k then comes in again, fiercly at about 5k.

I was surprised by the induction noise with the new intake. Under gentle load around town, say up a hill in 3rd or 4th at 60-70kph the induction noise is quite loud. I can now also hear the BOV on back off, popping back, echoeing through the filter.
I had never heard the BOV on my car before this.
I hated it at first, now have gotten used to it, and love it, especially when you driving it enthusiastically and wanting it to sound like a Turbo Sports Car.

PS Still have original rubber inlet, and piggy backing and dyno tuning seems to be the next step to take advantage of all this air going in and comning out

[PASHN8]

Ah ok, now I understand what you mean.

I have exactly the same symptoms and it is has been driving me nuts! 5K onwards it just picks up and really starts moving, but I want it to be like that smoothly from much earlier in the rev range.
What needs to be done to eliminate this? It almost feels to me like lag, but it can't be being that the turbo is so small?

[Fuzzlet]

Yea as by MINX, I get boost from around 3k, but from 5k it really takes off

What needs to be done to eliminate this? It almost feels to me like lag, but it can't be being that the turbo is so small?

Ive heard its because the ECU is tuned for the small amounts of air it gets on the standard intake, when it starts to deal with the increased airflow (due to the new intake), the ECU goes into open loop mode. Apparently its a *relatively* simple exercise to get around it - simply get a piggyback and a decent tune...

[PASHN8]

Fuzzlet, i've since read on MSM owners that the FM 02 Mod, and the newly discovered 2.7 Volt Zener diode mode will fix 90% of this!

I'm going to order the new 2-wire FM 02 modifier and get hold of one of these Zener diodes and give it a go, apparently it works really well according to the US guys.

Plenty of info on the FM 02 Mod both on their site, or on the forums.

Zener diode mode info here:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index ... 706.0.html

Sounds like a pretty cheap ($140'ish) pair of mods bang for buck compared to the $1400 odd for a piggyback and tune!

[blackster]

Fuzzlet, i've since read on MSM owners that the FM 02 Mod, and the newly discovered 2.7 Volt Zener diode mode will fix 90% of this!

I'm going to order the new 2-wire FM 02 modifier and get hold of one of these Zener diodes and give it a go, apparently it works really well according to the US guys.

Plenty of info on the FM 02 Mod both on their site, or on the forums.

Zener diode mode info here:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index ... 706.0.html

Sounds like a pretty cheap ($140'ish) pair of mods bang for buck compared to the $1400 odd for a piggyback and tune!

Before you rush and do something you might regret, stuffing around with the TPS signal under open loop in WOT creates a lean condition. If most of you guys are now running mods that roughly produce 10 psi, you are around/above 11.5.1 under boost.

I suggest you hook up an OBDII meter watching the 02 signal and monitor exactly what the car is doing in between closed and open loop. If memory serves me correct a "stoich mixture" occurs between closed to open at around 4500-5000rpm causing hesitation whilst the ECU plays catch up to throw in extra fuel.

FM 02 mod operates under vacuum, which is not ideal at cruize. There are other 02 mods on the market that activate under positive manifold pressure, which is better for fuel economy and infuences part throttle and WOT hesitation.

Using both FM and another brand of 02 mod, I can say that the FM 02 mod removes about 65% of hesitation whilst the others remove 90% whilst under any condition.

If the FM O2 mod gets rid of 70% of the hesitation then this gets rid of 20% more

Why bother with the FM 02 and TPS mod, when there is one mod out there that gets rid of the same hesitation amount as both. Secondly run the risk of going lean, when you have no way of adding additional fuel.

FWTW, no piggyback that simply adds pulse width to the injector signal will get rid of hesitation issue. Nor will an FM 02 mod with its accompanied DYI TPS patch. The piggyback is helpful for trimming fuel, adding ignition and going above boost cut to the SE's less then optimal mapping.

Its one sepo's claim that his TPS mod may help with hesitation, it doesnt mean its the best fix or a safe one for that matter.

If you want to get rid of hesitation all together you need a standalone ECU.

[MINX]

I was thinking this might be the answer!
I have spoken to them and it takes a day to fit and dyno tune.
AND $1490 Smackers!
Is it worth it?

ChipTorque’s XEDE Processor is a state of the art programmable engine management interceptor computer that is designed to work in tandem with the vehicle’s factory ECU. It is easily wired into the factory loom and is supplied with a performance program to suit your vehicle’s modifications. The XEDE programming software, XMAP is free to download for further fine tuning and customisation of your XEDE Processor by any Dyno Programmer. The XEDE generates changes in fuel and ignition by commanding the factory ECU’s load and crank reference input signals to deliver increased power and torque, optimal throttle response, improved fuel economy and smoother acceleration. By wiring in a switch you can toggle between two separate programs (eg high / low boost) even while driving. ChipTorque’s XEDE also has the ability to generate data logs.

Power Gains Product Price Fitting Total
(kW’s at the wheels) Time Price
(hr)
Standard XEDE Processor
HP0 5 – 6 kW XEDE Processor $990.00 2 $240 $1,230.00
HP1 7 – 10 kW Custom Dyno Programming $200.00 1.5 $300 $300.00
HP2 10 – 15 kW Total Price Fitted & Dyno Tuned $1,490.00

[Fuzzlet]

$1500 can buy u most piggy back ECUs and a decent tune...they'll also net u more than an extra 15kw. I wonder whether that extra 15kw is on a standard car or modified in another way?...

[MINX]

So question:
If I get the exede fitted and dynoed, what happens next time the car needs a service?
Can Mazda still do it as per normal, or will it need retuning by ChipTorque, or similar, each time?