Just checked the timing..... ummm..... HELP??!!

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Steampunk
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Postby Steampunk » Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:59 am

O-ring is on the CAS itself.
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cshaks
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Re:

Postby cshaks » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:12 am

1red5 wrote:O-ring is on the CAS itself.

So that would mean I have to remove the cover entirely to replace it?

Chris
SOLD: '95 NA8 White with custom tan leather. BD bar, King Springs, 15" NB alloys.
Now driving a Mazda6 luxury sports.

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fattima
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Postby fattima » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:47 am


Fatty
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Postby Fatty » Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:47 am

i don't think you absolutley need to change the o-ring . only need to do it if it starts leeking. (as it apparently does after being in ths same spot for years, and then getting moved t change timing)

we changed my timing a few months ago and i've been keeping an eye on the o-ring, no leaking, yet.

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cshaks
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Re:

Postby cshaks » Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:11 pm

Fattima, thanks mate, that was exactly what I needed... I must have missed them when I searched. Hopefully I get a chance to do the o-ring before I get to AVO, if not I will do it there....


Fatty wrote:i don't think you absolutley need to change the o-ring . only need to do it if it starts leeking. (as it apparently does after being in ths same spot for years, and then getting moved t change timing)

we changed my timing a few months ago and i've been keeping an eye on the o-ring, no leaking, yet.


I definitely have a leak there, (even though I hadn't screwed with the timing when I noticed it) I keep the engine bay pretty clean and have noticed a leak coming from that area. I will do it even if it is just to rule that issue out....
Plus I will be interested to see what the dyno chart shows from AVO.....
Cheers
Chris
SOLD: '95 NA8 White with custom tan leather. BD bar, King Springs, 15" NB alloys.
Now driving a Mazda6 luxury sports.

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Steampunk
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Postby Steampunk » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:31 pm

Yes, you will have to remove the cam cover to to remove the CAS. No biggie.
Might as well replace your cam cover gasket while you are at it, or if you are going to re-use it, use some gasket sealant when refitting.
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JBT
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Postby JBT » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:21 pm

Changed it on my NA8 without touching the cam cover :? .

If you have an oil leak there around the CAS, beware that it could have been dripping onto the heater hose directly below it. Oil+rubber hose = bad. You may need a new hose. If so, make sure you carefully cut the old one off the heater pipe at the firewall.
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cshaks
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Re:

Postby cshaks » Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:12 am

JBT wrote:Changed it on my NA8 without touching the cam cover :? .

If you have an oil leak there around the CAS, beware that it could have been dripping onto the heater hose directly below it. Oil+rubber hose = bad. You may need a new hose. If so, make sure you carefully cut the old one off the heater pipe at the firewall.

I am hoping not to have to touch the cam cover, the guides that Fattima linked me to show that it can be done without removal.

I take it that the heater hose has a flimsy mount at the firewall or something? Is there potential here for drastic failure and much cursing and gnashing of teeth???
:shock: :shock:
SOLD: '95 NA8 White with custom tan leather. BD bar, King Springs, 15" NB alloys.
Now driving a Mazda6 luxury sports.

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JBT
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Postby JBT » Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:53 am

The firewall heater pipes are very thin and very easily bent/twisted. The hoses seem to \"weld\" themselves to those copper pipes.
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cshaks
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Diagnosis

Postby cshaks » Tue Jun 24, 2008 4:23 pm

I spent this morning at AVO, and we have finally figured out the timing problem.
It looks like the harmonic balancer is slipping and out of alignment varying up to 10 degrees.
Its also causing a noticeable vibration in the engine.
I've ordered a new one and will get it installed by the guys later in the week so that we can finally time it properly.
It looks as though the timing was set for 18 deg, but the balancer was showing 28ish (sometimes). It also explains why it did not like it when I took it back to 10 degrees, as it would have been closer to zero.

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Chris
SOLD: '95 NA8 White with custom tan leather. BD bar, King Springs, 15" NB alloys.
Now driving a Mazda6 luxury sports.

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JBT
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Postby JBT » Tue Jun 24, 2008 4:28 pm

:?
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cshaks
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Re:

Postby cshaks » Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:01 pm

JBT wrote::?


thats what I thought..... I didn't expect THAT to be the problem!
SOLD: '95 NA8 White with custom tan leather. BD bar, King Springs, 15" NB alloys.
Now driving a Mazda6 luxury sports.

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Steampunk
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Postby Steampunk » Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:10 pm

when you say harmonic balancer, do they mean the crank pulley itself?
Do you have an early NA6? If so, are you aware of the short-nose crank issue?

can a harmonic balancer \"slip\"? :roll:
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JBT
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Postby JBT » Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:19 pm

cshaks has an NA8. Maybe I should have been :shock: . This is not good....
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cshaks
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Re:

Postby cshaks » Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:25 pm

1red5 wrote:when you say harmonic balancer, do they mean the crank pulley itself?
Do you have an early NA6? If so, are you aware of the short-nose crank issue?

can a harmonic balancer "slip"? :roll:


1red5,
Yes I do mean the crank pulley (sorry), I could see the vibration on it too.
My 5 is a '95 NA8 which should rule out the short-nose issue.
As you have probably realized by now I am not much of a mechanic... I tinker and help out some mates who have vastly more knowledge than I.
The guys down at AVO seem to be pretty honest whith what they do, and they have done a LOT of work on a project that I have been helping out with for a few years now, so I am kinda trusting them on this one.
As far as how a crank pulley could slip? I am not too sure, I suppose if it has been loose at some stage you could get some play in it? I have only had this car since January so I am not entirely sure of its past service history....
Chris
SOLD: '95 NA8 White with custom tan leather. BD bar, King Springs, 15" NB alloys.
Now driving a Mazda6 luxury sports.


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