Reccomended Brake Pads?

[TieNN89]

You aren't very clear about how the brake fade happened. Were you "riding" the brakes down a long descent?

nope

but i did have to brake a lot a few corners before my brake fade

[JBT]

Aaah, this

Well after todays cruise i got brake fade on the way down

confused me then.

I'd still be inclined to get the fluid changed unless you're absolutely certain it was completely flushed and not just checked/topped up prior to you buying the car. I've seen guys at track days with \"kick @rse\" brakes lose the lot because their contaminated/time expired fluid boiled.

[TieNN89]

Aaah, this

Well after todays cruise i got brake fade on the way down

confused me then.

I'd still be inclined to get the fluid changed unless you're absolutely certain it was completely flushed and not just checked/topped up prior to you buying the car. I've seen guys at track days with "kick @rse" brakes lose the lot because their contaminated/time expired fluid boiled.

well it was a flat road down hill here and there but where i got the brake fade it was down hill

I'm just gona assume my brakes were hot

the brake cylinder is clean as but I'll replace it anyway

i've never changed brakes or fluid before

but I'll have to try to

any instructions available?

so so if i change the fluid when i go to install the brake pads a few weeks dow nthe track will i have to fiddle with the fluid in anyway?

i got speedbleeders to be installed too


So Dot 5.1 fluids should be good yeah
Anyone got a brand they'd like to recommend

[wun911]

Hey Azntein

Break fluid and pads can be done independent of each other. (But probably not bad so you can see the effect of fluid alone)

I would put the speed bleeders on then do the fluid change thus makin it a one man job and it will save you a lot of time. Also makes the job fool proof as in you cant suck air back into the line.

I was suprised when I changed my fluid how firm the pedal felt. Its not just contaminated fluid you want to get rid of its also the AIR bubbles traped inside your break line. Contaminated fluids will lower the boiling temp thats probably why you experienced fade. AIR is an enemy because its compressed more easily than fluid thus any air will give you a soft pedal feeling.

Same benifits go for the clutch it wil provide a more springy firm feeling. Some say a change of fluid in the clutch improves shifting (and I tend to agree). If you have left over fluid just do the clutch as well its the same process.

There is 'aparently' an order as to which calipar is bleed first, and which calipar is bleed last it has something to do with the length of each break line. Its not critical as I have never had a problem with random order.

Tools you will need are:
8mm spanner (speed bleeder was designed for impreal but the 8mm is a snug fit)
A new bottle of brake fluid
The hose that fits snug over the speed bleeder nipple
Empty coke bottle etc to dispose of old fluid
Just incase you spill any keep a rag handy (lay the rags around the master when you top it up with fluid just incase you spill any)

My nube tips and experience:

Use the closed end of the spanner the OEM bleeder is made of a soft metal and can be striped easily. I was in Boag's speed bleeder GB because I stripped a bleeder

The bleeder only needs to be loose by about half a turn, and it will be ready to bleed.

When finished the bleeder does not need to be done up super tight. (I have heard of people that tighten it so bad the bleeder snaped and was stuck in the calipar). Im lucky im a week nube

About every 8-10 pumps on the pedal check the master and top it up with more fluid, if it runs empty you will suck air into the line and you will have to start all over again.

[JBT]

Wun911 has given you good info. There are also
heaps of search results here and here that should help you. Otherwise, ABS will do it for about $60 including fluid.

[green_comet]

There is 'aparently' an order as to which calipar is bleed first, and which calipar is bleed last it has something to do with the length of each break line. Its not critical as I have never had a problem with random order.

If your car has ABS then you can bleed in whatever order you like, as the brakes run on separate circuits.

But if you have an NA without ABS then the order is to start farthest from the brake master cylinder, and work your way closer. This way you make sure all the old fluid is completely flushed from your system, and is not being mixed in with the new fluid.

[TieNN89]

Thanks for all the help

All i need is my car now then i can do this brake fluid thing

Another question on the brake fluids if I compare the DOT 4 against the DOT 5.1
I know the DOT 5.1 has a higher boiling temp but are they both just as effective while the fluid is cold?

Also I'm planning on getting new slotted rotors
I'm looking at the DBA Street Series

I'm also planning on new pads as well
I've spoken to a few places and they reckon I should go with the Bendix General CT since the car will be street dríven most of the time

I was also told that the Ultimates needs to be heated up so if I'm taking off early in the morning the pads won't get a good grip since its not warm
Is this true?

[TieNN89]

ok i got some brake fluid Castrol Super Dot 4 from Supercheap

I bought 500mL I'm assuming that would be enough for clutch and brake

apparently they don't stock 5.1

anyway is the dot 4 ok for clutch as well?

Is it the same procedure for the clutch too suck all the old fluid out then poor the new stuff in then bleed the system

[green_comet]

I was also told that the Ultimates needs to be heated up so if I'm taking off early in the morning the pads won't get a good grip since its not warm
Is this true?

They are fine, I have never had a problem with my Ultimates. They are like any pad, they brake better when warmed up. It only takes about 5min of normal driving and they will be fine. Even when they are cold I find mine brake good.

I think you will probably need more than 500ml of brake fluid to do your brake system, and clutch, and yes the dot 4 fluid will be fine for clutch. You bleed the clutch the same as you would your brakes.

[TieNN89]

oh ok I'll go get some there was only two bottles left hopefully the other one is still there when i go tomorrow
they're only $8 a bottle

they don't chew thru rotors do they?

also should i run ultimate on the front and rear or will ultimate front and general ct on the rear be fine since most of the braking is done on the front

[CT]

If your car has ABS then you can bleed in whatever order you like, as the brakes run on separate circuits.

Not quite correct - the rears are on one circuit in the NB series with ABS, the factory manual does still recommend following the furtherst to closest order in the above pic, you need to do the drivers front before the passenger front.

[wun911]

Hrmz maybe no more randomness for me.

8 bucks aint goin to kill ya tien but you will wish that they produced a 600ml bottles of fluid for like 10 bucks

I was goin to sugest you shop at repco etc they have the 5.1 for around $36 IIRC. Use that for the breaks (500ml is enough for breaks). Then use the DOT 4 for the clutch (clutch never gets so hot it boils). Just remember what you used for future reference .

[TieNN89]

yeah i replaced the fluid and installed those speedbeeders or when i got the car back

anyway contacted a company regarding rotors and brake pads for pricing and they recommended me these QFM HPX which apparently is rated to 550 degrees the same as the Bendix Ultimates and apparently very kind of the rotors and virtually dust free and are heaps cheaper than Ultimate

for the MX5s it has to be custom made so would take 2 - 3 weeks and are made on the Gold Coast

So has anyone tried these QFM HPX pads?

I might give them a go

[TieNN89]

http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/fo ... &id=451755