car interior overheating...
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- Gazbo
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The two main causes are the sealing strip over the firewall and the heater hot/cold flap not closing properly.
I've done the heater flap fix, that was pretty simple and cut the heat by about half. Here's the original text.
http://www.miata.net/garage/heater_cable.html
All I actually did was pull the black cable out of its holder (in the red circle), withdraw it 5 or 6 mm and then push it back into its holder. Then I unclipped the second lever (in the orange circle) by releasing the latch on the white clip it sits in and moved it up 2 or 3 rungs and re-fastened it there. If you do that then you don't need a spring. Takes 5-10 minutes.
Now I'm waiting for Mazda to get in a new sealing strip. It's $40.
I've done the heater flap fix, that was pretty simple and cut the heat by about half. Here's the original text.
http://www.miata.net/garage/heater_cable.html
All I actually did was pull the black cable out of its holder (in the red circle), withdraw it 5 or 6 mm and then push it back into its holder. Then I unclipped the second lever (in the orange circle) by releasing the latch on the white clip it sits in and moved it up 2 or 3 rungs and re-fastened it there. If you do that then you don't need a spring. Takes 5-10 minutes.
Now I'm waiting for Mazda to get in a new sealing strip. It's $40.
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- marcusus
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Re:
manga_blue wrote:Now I'm waiting for Mazda to get in a new sealing strip. It's $40.
I still don't think a new sealing strip will work. The strip itself is hollow, which means the air inside the strip heats up as the strip heats up. What you need is an insulative material inside the strip to actually stop heat transfer through the strip itself.
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Re:
marcusus wrote:manga_blue wrote:Now I'm waiting for Mazda to get in a new sealing strip. It's $40.
I still don't think a new sealing strip will work. The strip itself is hollow, which means the air inside the strip heats up as the strip heats up. What you need is an insulative material inside the strip to actually stop heat transfer through the strip itself.
Yeah but mine's so flattened that I can't get the foam into it. Already tried that one - farted round for ages with bits of foam core and fishing line. The bit I did get in soon got crushed by the flattened rubber and perished by the heat anyway.
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- marcusus
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Re:
manga_blue wrote:Yeah but mine's so flattened that I can't get the foam into it. Already tried that one - farted round for ages with bits of foam core and fishing line. The bit I did get in soon got crushed by the flattened rubber and perished by the heat anyway.
Fair enough. At least you gave it a crack. Let us know how the new seal from Mazda goes. If it still allows a lot of heat in, perhaps whilst it's not compressed is a good time to try and rethread some insulation.
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I removed the heat shielding on the stock exhaust due to it coming apart and rattling. I notice the transmission tunnel heats up. usually in traffic it's noticeable.
how many on this thread have modified their exhaust system?
i do also hear a noise coming from behind the glove box when i close a door. probably loose flap as well.
how many on this thread have modified their exhaust system?
i do also hear a noise coming from behind the glove box when i close a door. probably loose flap as well.
- corners
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Re:
devolutio wrote:I removed the heat shielding on the stock exhaust due to it coming apart and rattling. I notice the transmission tunnel heats up. usually in traffic it's noticeable.
how many on this thread have modified their exhaust system?
i do also hear a noise coming from behind the glove box when i close a door. probably loose flap as well.
i have a modified exhaust
- metris
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hey guys, i ttried the trick with adjusting the flap and it is definately better but still not really good...
So it could be a combination of the two problems... I'm going to try stuffing the seal with rubber or foam on the weekend... see how i go.
Thanks for the suggestions!
So it could be a combination of the two problems... I'm going to try stuffing the seal with rubber or foam on the weekend... see how i go.
Thanks for the suggestions!
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- Techno
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Re: car interior overheating...
OK ..... I was waiting for someone to come up with the correct answer...... so here it is.
PUT THE HEATER ONTO RECYCLE MODE.
PUT THE HEATER ONTO RECYCLE MODE.
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Re: car interior overheating...
Techno wrote:OK ..... I was waiting for someone to come up with the correct answer...... so here it is.
PUT THE HEATER ONTO RECYCLE MODE.
Mine is always like that unless the air con is on.
- Garry
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PUT THE HEATER ONTO RECYCLE MODE.
And that helps how? From my experience it gets the stale hot air heated by the exhaust and transmission from the passengers side footwell/under dash area and blows it in your face.
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- Techno
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Re:
Garry wrote:PUT THE HEATER ONTO RECYCLE MODE.
And that helps how? From my experience it gets the stale hot air heated by the exhaust and transmission from the passengers side footwell/under dash area and blows it in your face.
Hi Garry,
When my fan is turned off and the dial is set to cool I still get warnair coming through the vents. When it is on recycle the air flow stops.
It works for me ...
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Re:
Techno wrote:When my fan is turned off and the dial is set to cool I still get warnair coming through the vents. When it is on recycle the air flow stops.
It works for me ...
That's because the 'non-recycle' setting draws air in from the cavity at the base of the windscreen where the wiper arms are. If it's a hot day, or the rubber seal between engine bay and above mentioned cavity area is worn, you will get warm air coming in. Setting to the recycle mode stops that air coming in.
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