http://www.hummingbirds.net/alignment.html Lanny's
http://www.aus-cartalk.com/tech/mbsuspension.htm manga_blue's
Have many used either settings? does the Lanny work well on Australian roads? I'll be going for one of these alignments next time round, just dunno which one first.
The car is of course the NA6 MarioKart. Has been lowered a little with WhiteLine springs, has KYB AGXs, 14\" StarCorp wheels & Bridgestone Turanza tyres in 185/60R14 size (usually 33psi but sometimes I use 32psi, tried the Mazda recommended 28psi & it just seems like too much drag on the engine).
So far I've been getting standard alignments at Bob Jane but think I'll goto TyrePower next, though just which one in Adelaide. Might have to look up a few threads, I think AdamNAclubman had a particular aligner he always goes to.
Does a ballasted/custom settings alignment usually cost more then a regular factory spec alignment??
The car won't be taken onto the track so just roads for me, & I don't want to lose too much tyre life either.
NA wheel alignments, Lanny's & or Manga_Blue's?
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Now now, no need to get nasty. I would have replied had I seen this thread earlier.
My current alignment was using Lanny's one but with less camber f&r; I asked for -1.5 rear, and -1.1 front as I don't push it as hard as Lanny says he does.
It was done in early July, and I've done one track day with it.
Some say the toe in is too much and completely unnecessary, and it would have an adverse affect on turn-in responsiveness, but I can't really imagine my car would turn in alot better than what it has.
Next time I'll use the exact same settings and just change the toe to \"0\" and find out.
Oh and my suspension is dead stock, except 26mm solid front sway bar, but I did the alignment before I got the sway bar in. (94 NA with 133,000km)
My current alignment was using Lanny's one but with less camber f&r; I asked for -1.5 rear, and -1.1 front as I don't push it as hard as Lanny says he does.
It was done in early July, and I've done one track day with it.
Some say the toe in is too much and completely unnecessary, and it would have an adverse affect on turn-in responsiveness, but I can't really imagine my car would turn in alot better than what it has.
Next time I'll use the exact same settings and just change the toe to \"0\" and find out.
Oh and my suspension is dead stock, except 26mm solid front sway bar, but I did the alignment before I got the sway bar in. (94 NA with 133,000km)
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Re:
1red5 wrote:Oh and my suspension is dead stock, except 26mm solid front sway bar, but I did the alignment before I got the sway bar in. (94 NA with 133,000km)
I reckon it would handle like a pig with a heavy front bar and those settings.
Try some more aggressive settings, you won't go back.
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I've had a few different alignment setups, and what I have got at the moment is very similar to mb's. I was running 2.5* neg all round for a while before that 1.5* all reound and now I have gone back to 2.0* all round. running this little bit less is still much better than the 1.5* and not noticably different to 2.5* but should have better tyre life. the other added benifit of a little less neg is that I have been able to get about 5.5* castor on it now which improves turn in. I had the front toed out about 6mm for a day when I changed my rack and before I got the last alignment and it is absolutely amazing the imrovement in turn in from 1.0mm toe in each side(2.0 total). I have now got the front toe at 0.0mm(straight) which works really well without the expense of huge tyre wear.
Hope that helps a bit, this is my current alignment summed up, which I am very happy with atm:
Front:
Camber- -2.0*
Castor- +5.5*
Toe- 0.0mm
Rear:
Camber- -2.0*
Toe- -1.0mm each side(toe in, 2.0mm total)
Cheers,
Tim
Hope that helps a bit, this is my current alignment summed up, which I am very happy with atm:
Front:
Camber- -2.0*
Castor- +5.5*
Toe- 0.0mm
Rear:
Camber- -2.0*
Toe- -1.0mm each side(toe in, 2.0mm total)
Cheers,
Tim
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