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Engines, Transmissions & Final Drive questions and answers

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GP
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Postby GP » Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:01 pm

That's certainly worth trying, Will have to check mine. :D
Graham

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irwin83r
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Postby irwin83r » Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:47 pm

wouldnt having your intake piping running straight above your headers make the pipe work hot? that being said wouldnt that heat the air some what hot...

NMX516
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Postby NMX516 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:44 pm

Just kinda thinking out loud here - has anyone tried running some pipework down to a pod mounted infront of the radiator?? :?
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SuperMazdaKart
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Postby SuperMazdaKart » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:56 pm

one of these would be ideal i think

Image
Image
Image

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TieNN89
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Re:

Postby TieNN89 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:47 pm

SuperMazdaKart wrote:one of these would be ideal i think

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it won't really be cold anymore its sitting ontop of the radiator

its simliar to this
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info. ... cts_id/514
500 pounds :shock:

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marcusus
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Re:

Postby marcusus » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:57 pm

wun911 wrote:Do you think I will still get noticable performance gains with just a heat shield and a large K&N pod filter???

I kinda wanted one of these

http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProd ... exID=64132

has anyone got one what did they think???

My CAI is similar to that. It doesn't sit at an angle though, and basically sits right behind the passenger headlight. Custom built by SuziTech in Thornleigh. Cost about $550, with everything basically custom made up, including a box that covers the pod so it's legal. K&N filter as well.

As for performance gains, it made 2rwkw more than a stock version of my car, with my car having about another 30,000km on the clock (dunno if that'd make a difference). The dyno run was at Mania, so although the numbers are very probably higher than what they are, it still gives a good comparative number to go off.

manga_blue wrote:There's a rubber sealing strip between the engine bay and the air box. This is meant to stop the air that's flowing through the radiator and over the engine from getting into that airbox. On my 12 year car it's squashed flat and does almost nothing. I'm ordering a new one. If it works then I'm hoping to have cool air there at higher pressure.

I'd say it's not worth getting a new one. If you had hot air coming through before, a new one probably won't fix it. My NB8A had this problem, so I went down to clark rubber, bought a strip of foam and shoved it down the hatch of the sealing strip. Removed the problem for about 90% of the time. The only reason it gets hot in the cabin now is if I'm sitting in traffic.

NMX516
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Postby NMX516 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:00 pm

Ok, just answered my own question :) The radiator is surrounded by metal, so no access to the front of it...
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sweep77
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Postby sweep77 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:09 pm

it amazes me that just some piping and a filter can cost $500 for maybe a few kw.

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irwin83r
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Postby irwin83r » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:45 pm

the way i have my intake running kinda dose what we are all after but bev had one that was a little more ideal..

on the NB you basically go behind the drivers side headlight down into the front bar, the filter can either be right down in the front bar leaving a fairly long intake length and getting air from either the front mouth or the fog light hole... or your own hole :D or you can have a short intake by having a elbow then the afm then the filter all behind the headlight (tight... but it fits)

when i was doing mine, i found there wasnt much room down behind the head light, to get down to the front bar and anything you put through there would have to be quiet squished.. but its been done and aparently is ideal...
my alternative to get cold air from the front of the car to my short air intake was to follow the turbo peoples lead and run a pipe down from my air box (at back of head light) straight down from below the throttle body then around through the plastic in the front mouth/wheel arch into the front mouth... you kinda have to see it to know what i mean..

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marcusus
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Re:

Postby marcusus » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:16 pm

sweep77 wrote:it amazes me that just some piping and a filter can cost $500 for maybe a few kw.

Yeah, but it was all legit at least. There's a fair bit of custom fabricated stuff in mine too that wasn't churned out at a factory. You can definitely do it cheaper yourself, but I also couldn't be bothered in this situation :P

As for irwin's idea of sitting it behind the driver's light, I think it's a great idea if you're going for power at the high end. It does the whole ram intake theory if you do it that way, but of course it then depends on your application of the CAI.

If it's a track car, definitely stick it there. If it's gonna be more for everyday putting around, and thus with more need for low end, I'd say get something with a bit of length. Refer to here for more information on pipe length. Incidentally, this is one of the articles that contributed to me going with a piped system, rather than doing the ram option like irwin.

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Hellmun
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Postby Hellmun » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:55 pm

Actually isn't that article stating the opposite, the short-ram air intake is only good for the absolutely bottom end and then loses out to the 110cm length tube from midrange up.

I also have a 110degree elbow and K&N rampod behind my driveside headlight. I may consider doing a proper intake....

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Alex
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Postby Alex » Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:18 am

marcusus
post up some pictures of yours
Image
Red NB8A - BD rollbar - Hardtop

wun911
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Postby wun911 » Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:17 pm

I like the mx5parts.uk CAI but 500 pounds thats just crazy.

The randal by flyin miata is nice but I dont want to drill holes...
every ounce counts

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irwin83r
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Re:

Postby irwin83r » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:09 pm

marcusus wrote:
sweep77 wrote:it amazes me that just some piping and a filter can cost $500 for maybe a few kw.

Yeah, but it was all legit at least. There's a fair bit of custom fabricated stuff in mine too that wasn't churned out at a factory. You can definitely do it cheaper yourself, but I also couldn't be bothered in this situation :P

As for irwin's idea of sitting it behind the driver's light, I think it's a great idea if you're going for power at the high end. It does the whole ram intake theory if you do it that way, but of course it then depends on your application of the CAI.

If it's a track car, definitely stick it there. If it's gonna be more for everyday putting around, and thus with more need for low end, I'd say get something with a bit of length. Refer to here for more information on pipe length. Incidentally, this is one of the articles that contributed to me going with a piped system, rather than doing the ram option like irwin.


wish i had my own dyno.. be nice to be able to play with things like that have when developing things..
if i ever get an ECU and get it tuned i'm so going to take a bag full of different intake pipes :P

another interesting bit on that same web site http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_1023/article.html?popularArticle

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marcusus
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Re:

Postby marcusus » Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:02 pm

Hellmun wrote:Actually isn't that article stating the opposite, the short-ram air intake is only good for the absolutely bottom end and then loses out to the 110cm length tube from midrange up.

Autospeed wrote:the short funnel is better at the bottom end but the 36cm duct gives a little advantage over the rest of the rev range.

How about that. I coulda swore it was the other way around. Then again, I imagine a lot of things, and this very well could've been one of them :P
I could've sworn that it was a better idea for high speed applications, because when you get to those speeds, the air just gets "rammed" into the intake, rather than having to go through the piping...

SM wrote:marcusus
post up some pictures of yours

Bit late to take pictures now :P
Will try and remember to do it tomorrow. Especially since I'm staying in tonight. Means I won't be waking up with a raging hangover tomorrow morning :P


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