NA6 Rear Brace

[davamb]

As mentioned in another thread, thought I'd put it here where it belongs so I don't offend anybody.

Designed my own version of the RB rear brace and had it made by the sheetmetal guy that does all our manufacturing at work.
It looks like this fitted:



I did want it in Zinc seal rather than hot gal so I could paint it black, but that was the only #14 gauge he had kicking around the shop on the day. The fit was just about perfect, I had to adjust 2 holes with a file, but this information can be fed back and the programming file adjusted for the next one. And now that the programming is done and paid for, I can get more run off for pretty low cost. It's all punch-and-nibble rather than laser-cut, but it ends up being cheaper per-unit if lacking in pizazz.

Finally got out for a drive last night. Noticeably tighter rear end. Nice.

[garettb16]

looks pretty good.. billet would be good too

[Fatty]

that's really cool. you should make up a front brace as well, like the cusco ? one.

[garettb16]

id prob be interested in one of those.. im just up the road from you too

[Steampunk]

I will put my hand up for one depending on price.
But is zinc strong enough? what would you make it out of if you were to make a batch?
Also.... apparently there are slight differences with NA8 mounting positions, would you be able to design one for NA8s?

[davamb]

No 1Red5, it's not made out of Zinc, it's #14 gauge mild steel, it's just zinc coated. The steel you can see on mine is galvanised, but Zinc seal is a much better coating with a good 'tooth' for paint to grip to.
I will find out the cost to run a couple more off and will have a look at what's required for the NA8, but I thought they already had the mod that joins the two sides of the suspension together??

[Steampunk]

AH! sorry mate, I was half asleep when I read your post. Steel it is.
I think I know what you mean about the \"mod that joins the two ends together\", but anything that helps reduce body roll I am always interested.

[Juffa]

Looks good. I have a RB one fitted. The RB brace has a small removable piece to allow you to fit the brace without touching the exhaust. Do have to separate the exhaust to fit this one?

J

[davamb]

The RB brace has a small removable piece to allow you to fit the brace without touching the exhaust. Do have to separate the exhaust to fit this one?

Hi Juffa, no, no removable piece I'm afraid, had to disconnect the 'zorst at the back of the cat (and finding a broken stud along the way - see thread in engines and transmission section). Only took about 30 minutes to fit though, but this was with the rear of the car up on ramps.

Here's a link to my 'inspiration' but no joiner piece shown.

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset.asp ... mber=54009

I'll have a chat with my sheetmetal guy on pricing. I'd want them black powdercoated for around $75 for 5-off, a bit better if I can find 10 customers. Anyone interested? (I'll put this up on the For Sale section too.)

[Juffa]

Ah, on second thoughts I think mine might not be a RB one, but possibly Brainstorm. I bought it second hand from a fellow forum member (Sab).

On mine the small horizontal piece that sits under the exhause is removable, so you can fit and remove the brace without touching the exhaust. I have a 2.5 inch exhaust which does not clash with the brace. I'm pretty sure mine is aluminium. I painted it black, not big on the bling factor.

For those thinking about it, these do make a big difference. I actually cut off the factory brace to install it.

J

[rain902]

Plan B - also saves weight

[Matty]

Ah, on second thoughts I think mine might not be a RB one, but possibly Brainstorm. I bought it second hand from a fellow forum member (Sab).

The one Sab had was a pattern of the Cannon brace off Nessy...

[corners]

Plan B - also saves weight

I dont understand how this helps?

I wouldnt think the subframe would have give?

[rain902]

Plan B - also saves weight

it saves weight by virtue of the fact that there is over a metre of zorst pipe & a dirty great muffler missing...

[lowmiata]

And now that the programming is done and paid for, I can get more run off for pretty low cost. It's all punch-and-nibble rather than laser-cut, but it ends up being cheaper per-unit if lacking in pizazz.

Dont rule out laser cutting I get alot of stuff laser cut and Its cheaper for me to out source laser cutting than use the in house strippit punch!+ you get a nicer finish that needs less labour to complete.

its also much cheaper less labour (depending ou how you program it)
what sort of program was written for it?