Ride Height For best Handling

Mr Starlet · Postby **Mr Starlet** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:23 pm

Interesting question Pumpn'Go, have a chat to Steve at Fulcrum Marooka, Fulcrum did a lot of testing early in the piece to help develop Tein suspensions for Australian roads, I think they're be more equipt to answer suspension Qs than most of us. From memory, I think 325/330 (F/R) was their recommended height for optimum handling for the NA. Definitely lower than stock but not riding on bump stop low....

see my sample photo below for 325/330 setup...

http://picasaweb.google.com/s363134/MX5 ... 3167537810

Matty · Postby **Matty** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:57 pm

Pumpn'Go wrote:So your saying that in your opinion that for a duel purpose car you would still recomend standard ride height .

Not quite, anyway "standard" depends on which model/year you refer to. the 325/330 advised above is pretty good.

Pumpn'Go · Postby **Pumpn'Go** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 6:29 pm

Thanks The picture looks a fair bit lower than mine , but I suppose it depends on tyre size.I will be running a set of Falken azenis 615\"s in 205-50-15.Does that sound like a similar size to what you run?
Maby I should start a new thread but here goes.
Does anyone re-mount the steering rack, or use tie rod spacers, for bump steer. Use adjustable arms for camber,or move pivot mounts for caster and toe on the rear etc?

Mr Starlet · Postby **Mr Starlet** » Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:27 pm

I might run larger rims and lower profile rubber but I keep the overall circumference as close to stock as possible...

go here to see how far you are from stock....
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

As an indication I run 215/40R16...this has a 3mm larger circumference compare to stock (185/60R14)...not much difference at all. Whereas yours is a good ~20mm larger...but again relatively small difference.

As for re-mount the steering rack, or use tie rod spacers, for bump steer. Use adjustable arms for camber,or move pivot mounts for caster and toe on the rear etc....personally I think the MX5 is pretty well design as is, I wouldn't bother with any of that...unless your a serious fulltime racer then maybe...

khlmx5 · Postby **khlmx5** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 4:25 pm

Hello, may i ask, for 325/330, what is that measurement and how is that measured? ie, is that the finger gap between tyres and fender or ?? do you have a clear picture of it to share please? the above links do not work anymore.

For stock height, it seems that the rear is lower than front. is that true? If this is true, is there any reason why most mod takes the front lower than rear if they are not leveled? and why would we do that?

Thanks

smy0003 · Postby **smy0003** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 4:58 pm

Plenty of good info in this thread, maybe not such a bad thing that it got resurrected.

It would be referring to the distance between the hub centre (centre of the wheel) and the top of the wheel arch, in mm of course.

M1474 · Postby **M1474** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 5:01 pm

That measurement is from centre of wheel to fender.

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 5:04 pm

Best place to measure is at the pinch welds, it makes for more consistent measuring.

khlmx5 · Postby **khlmx5** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 5:32 pm

thanks guys for quick reply. By the way, what is pinch welds?

does anyone know why na6 stock height is lower at the rear but modification often lower more at the front? what improvement would this make?

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 5:56 pm

Have a look here http://949racing.com/miata-race-alignment-info.aspx

khlmx5 · Postby **khlmx5** » Sat Aug 23, 2014 11:12 pm

Good info from that link. Thanks foor sharing.

Its quite techical for me to understamd all of it but will definitely ll look into it more

Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 7:09 am

Hopefully this will help as well. Ride height, amongst other things effects COG and weight transfer. If changing anything make sure you keep a notebook and record what the car feels like after the changes. Also only make 1 change at a time. Last track day I set the fronts 1.5 psi lower than the rear, car weighted 16 kg less, had different front shocks and put the sway bar on full soft. Result new PB however what change caused the PB?

http://www.mazdaontrack.co.uk/setting-up-suspension-and-handling-69-c.asp

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:19 am

Magpie wrote: Result new PB however what change caused the PB?

The moon was full.

khlmx5 · Postby **khlmx5** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:59 am

Can your sway bar adjust stiffness? Do you adjust by changing the thickness of the bar?

My car is actually completely stock atm. If i were to buy a set of spring and shock then there is little adjustability. Is coilover always to best recommendation in terms of overall usability ?
What is the upside of spring shock combo

smy0003 · Postby **smy0003** » Sun Aug 24, 2014 10:06 am

Have a read of some of the recent coilover threads from this forum:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=63439

Is a good one to start with.

Do a search on here, on miata.net and have a read of 949 and Flyin' miata's websites.
There's a lot to digest, but it's hard to make an informed purchase without all the knowledge available.