IRTB's

[irwin83r]

When you get the big power you tend to loose a bit of the skill that you get when you learn to really drive an underpowered car quickly...

i have heard a few people say this. but i dunno, i reckon i am learning a whole new set of skills with the turbo. i actually found it a lot easier to drive my car on a really twisty road before i put the turbo on. the turbo adds a whole new level of complexity to deal with.

i haven't had my car on a track yet tho so i defer to the experience of others who have gone from NA to turbo on the track cars. actually its a shame i didn't get it on a track before i put the turbo on, the comparison would have been interesting.

i think what boyracer is reffering to is basically you start to rely on the power you have rather than driving skill to get good lap times or pass people.. make a stuff up here or there breaking or turning "no matter ill make it up on the straight" turn your car into a point and shot hehe kinda survive the corners and make time when its straight.

[Fatty]

aaahh, yeah ok that makes sense. instead of pushing really hard thru the corners you can relax a bit and take it easier, and then just blast on the straights. i see what you are saying, thanks.

[Okibi]

T....and one of the only kits I know of that run off a piggyback computer

I'd rather get one without a piggyback ECU and get a proper ECU installed instead.

[adamjp]

I would think it depends on the quality of the piggyback.

Units like the eManage series and the UniChip are very good. Some are quite cheap and difficult to use.

To get IRTBs working well should not require a complete aftermarket ECU. If you retain the AFM (or MAF), intake air temp, IAC and stock TPS, the IRTBs are really just a multiple set of throttle plates instead of a single stock throttle plate. Conceivably, you could even pass emissions testing with this kind of setup.

You will almost certainly get some fuelling issues off idle and in the first 25% of throttle movement, but that is what the piggyback is there for.

To do this you would need to run the IRTBs off a plenum (atmospheric pressure, not vaccum), but this is how most factory IRTBs operate. The Toyota silvertop and blacktop (AE101 & AE111) engines had a plenum, the AE101 also had a AFM. The BMW IRTBs on an M3 have always worked very well through a plenum. The RB26 and SR20 in the GTR and GTiR Nissans also ran IRTBs off a small pressurised plenum.

And there is a Youtube video of a gent in England with the Fuji Racing IRTBs. They fitted in his car fine.

[green_comet]

Yeah i talked to Jimmy about the piggyback that comes with the kit..

He recons that alot of people have got it to run very well with the piggyback, with a smooth idle, and good power through out the rev range.

He also said that it will be ok to run it with the supplied piggyback, but he recommends that I use a good stand alone, or high quality piggy back like the e-manage ultimate.. which i was going to do anyway.

It will be fine for me to run the piggyback for the time being, and then either get a e-manage ultimate, or a NA8 pnp Megaquirt when they are made.

[Okibi]

You can get an adapter to use the Toyota quads on the MX-5 (pre NB).

[green_comet]

Yeah you can get a manifold to use the 4age 20v quads on a BP. I have heard that it costs quite alot of money to set up though, and most people on cluroadster say not to go that route. A few people on the forum have tried it, and not had very good results.

[adamjp]

There is also a manufacturer in South Africa that builds DCOE manifolds for the B6 and BP engines.

The three AE101 manifolds that I know of come from Japan and are approximately $1000 (plus postage) just for the manifold. One supplier has recently dropped their B6 manifold, sticking with the BP one only.

There is no reason why a set of AE101 IRTBs would not make a good basis for the IRTB set on a MX5. If you use the Toyota manifold, they already have IAC, injectors (high Imp), vacuum and fuel pressure regulation. This is what you pay $$$ for with the Jenvey or Fuji kits (and the fuji IAC solution looks a bit rudimentary).

[CT]

The easiest solution is not any of these fancy arsed expensive overseas kits, but to use EFI hardware in Melbourne. For $600, he will convert a stock manifold to a DCOE webber one which takes his $1000 kit of 2x45mm twin throttle bodies and linkages. You don't even need to touch the fueling system. All you then need, is a fuel only ECU - or a piggypack that runs on throttle position. I used a $30 AC delco TPS sensor spliced into the MX5 wiring for throttle signal and idle is maintained the old fashioned way - with a throttle stop. If you are that way inclined, I am sure an MX5 TPS could be made to work with the DCOEs with an adaptor lathe'd up. They work fine, even on a cold motor. You don't need to over complicate these things.

[slammer]

UPDATE

Still trying to get ecu to talk to TPS..............

[irwin83r]

UPDATE

Still trying to get ecu to talk to TPS..............

oh dear...

good luck dude

we need you tomorrow

[Sean]

UPDATE

Still trying to get ecu to talk to TPS..............

What's the problem with it?

You may need to cahnge a few settings for teh different type of TPS. The 1.6 one is a switch type, I'm guessing you've gone to a variable type?

[slammer]

Duuno mate sent you a PM

[slammer]

TUNED

Rough tune to get me to the track tommorrow

Special Thanks to Bill At Maz Speed for opening shop for me on a Saturdau and doing a great job of unravelling the mess of soldered wires to the ECU.

Special thanks to Jason at TT Automotive (Top tune) for the install and patience dogged determination and the best customer care i have ever experienced

To Sean for providing the pdf of the wiring

To Lou for putting up with my total lack of knowledge

No thanks to the cab driver who got me lost and cost me $100 to get from Redfern to Seven Hills



To Trish for emotional care given over this past week, especially last night

About 6Kw increase from 82-88


Here it is in Scooter

[irwin83r]

sweet. good to see it all come together! see you tomorrow