I picked them up this evening, I had a bit of a look and I think I could make the origional rails fit with a little bit of midification, just wanted to ask some of you guys who hav done it already before I hack into it? So can the stock rails be modified to fit or should I be thinking of making some adaptors?
Any tips would be great thanks
Tim
Installing Sparco sprints
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- zoomzoom
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- Mr_Q
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Driver side should fit without work. Passenger side will need some welding. Haven't done it myself, just aware that Daniel at Mania has needed to weld a tab to the passenger side seat runner to get it to bolt on correctly.
Last edited by Mr_Q on Wed Apr 04, 2007 2:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Lucky_Luke
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the drivers side bolts straight in, no modifications needed, just bolt the original rail to the new seat.
the passengers side will take a little bit of work.
you'll need to elongate all of the mounting holes(4 to the seat base, 4 to the floor) in the rail to make it fit.
it's a little bit of fiddling with the dremel but be patient & it'll be right.
the passengers side will take a little bit of work.
you'll need to elongate all of the mounting holes(4 to the seat base, 4 to the floor) in the rail to make it fit.
it's a little bit of fiddling with the dremel but be patient & it'll be right.
- zoomzoom
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- lowmiata
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DANGER DANGER!
I'd be presuming you want the washers to jack up the height of the rails so it doesn't interfere with the bolt heads?
You Don't need to do all that (more so it wont pass with washers under the mounting points
you don't even have to weld anything as by rights if you weld it you are required to have it (the weld in particular) inspected as well
all you have to do is elongate the outboard seat rail by 3mm
the way you have fitted the drivers side is perfect
if you use the bar in between like you have shown in your pic you are going down an uncertain road!
the sparco's are ADR approved and so are your seat rails, join the two and you have no problems
Introduce a part with no ADR into the equation and you risk uncertanties!
The engineer might not see it but its a duty of care you don't want looming over your head!
I'd be presuming you want the washers to jack up the height of the rails so it doesn't interfere with the bolt heads?
You Don't need to do all that (more so it wont pass with washers under the mounting points
you don't even have to weld anything as by rights if you weld it you are required to have it (the weld in particular) inspected as well
all you have to do is elongate the outboard seat rail by 3mm
the way you have fitted the drivers side is perfect
if you use the bar in between like you have shown in your pic you are going down an uncertain road!
the sparco's are ADR approved and so are your seat rails, join the two and you have no problems
Introduce a part with no ADR into the equation and you risk uncertanties!
The engineer might not see it but its a duty of care you don't want looming over your head!
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- zoomzoom
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I wanted to avoid using dodgy rails too, but the difference between the width of the std and sparco points is 15mm so I would have to elongate the holes on the rails and then the car to get 7.5mm per side.
So what I have done will do to hold the seat in untill next week when I can talk to the guy who would need to do the mod plate and see what he would like me to do with it.
Tim
PS By modifying the rails wouldn't the ADR approval become redundant as the item is no longer the one which was origionally approved?
So what I have done will do to hold the seat in untill next week when I can talk to the guy who would need to do the mod plate and see what he would like me to do with it.
Tim
PS By modifying the rails wouldn't the ADR approval become redundant as the item is no longer the one which was origionally approved?
- lowmiata
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Re:
zoomzoom wrote:
PS By modifying the rails wouldn't the ADR approval become redundant as the item is no longer the one which was origionally approved?
how have you change the dynamics in how it works though?
it had a hole in it already futher rear than the web to the bracket, you have put a hole aprox 15mm futher forward closer to the web pobably actually made it that tiny winy bit stronger the seat is still fitted in the same manor and still operates the same no major changes were needed to fit it other than the hole
an engineer wouldn' thave a problem with this as it is how it was orinally suppied
mils steel flat bar though thats a no-no!
the engineer might say its alright in which case its fine just remember at the end of the day if you ever get pulled up for it and it is found to be non compliant you and the engineer that signed it off will be in trouble.
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