New Clutch

Insurgence · Postby **Insurgence** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:41 pm

Hello All.

I'm up for a new clutch.

Been getting some quotes for clutch kits, around $530 for oem mazda, >$250 mark for aftermarket (exedy).

I will attempt install myself.

Should I be contemplating putting in a tougher clutch?
I dont really intend on upping power, and would probably need to have major drive train mods if that was the case, so keeping it N/A is probably best.

Other advice welcome :lol:

Boags · Postby **Boags** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:50 pm

Insurgence wrote:Should I be contemplating putting in a tougher clutch?

Nope.

Good luck with the install. I know there are some very detailed guides on how to do the swap for an NA6, and I'm sure there are some for the NB8A.

Boags

mr_rotary · Postby **mr_rotary** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 8:29 pm

Boags'MX5 wrote:
Insurgence wrote:Should I be contemplating putting in a tougher clutch?

Nope.

Boags

Any particular reason as to why not install a heavy duty/tougher clutch?

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:14 pm

I installed the exedy clutch......pretty good no complaints there,

I wouln't bother with the ceramic button clutches but the exedy clutch is quite ok.....seemed to increase accelaration a bit.....but will also put extra pressure on the diff.

a button clutch will eat your standard 1.6 diff in no time......

Astroboysoup · Postby **Astroboysoup** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 12:46 pm

I got the Xtreme 4 puck ceramic button clutch

lots of clamping force but skips and shudders if i don't drop it right.

I prefer a heavier non cushioned clutch.

it has a nice feel to it.

Boags · Postby **Boags** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 1:05 pm

mr_rotary wrote:
Boags'MX5 wrote:
Insurgence wrote:Should I be contemplating putting in a tougher clutch?

Nope.

Boags

Any particular reason as to why not install a heavy duty/tougher clutch?

Only because Insurgence has an NB8A. It uses the same clutch that the SP uses, so I'd say upgrading if you have stock power is money wasted IMO. If you have a 1.6, then upgrading is almost a must. As Stan said, a tougher clutch will help even with stock(ish) power levels.

I think using the excedy as a replacement is a good option, but not a 6/4puck or button clutch.

Boags

CT · Postby CT » Fri Mar 30, 2007 1:42 pm

Puck clutches should be left for race cars. In the 1.8 non turbo race cars, mine was downsized to a 1.6 puck clutch and flywheel and I never had any troubles even at the 120rwkw level. A standard exedy kit will be more than adequate. Actually, I just bought one this morning for my NB8B.

mr_rotary · Postby **mr_rotary** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 11:06 pm

You're right Boags about the 1.6 clutch hence why I asked in case I was missing something. It just dosn't seem to grip - it's on the 'to do' list.

Insurgence · Postby **Insurgence** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 12:23 am

Hmm... Would there be much difference between the OEM mazda and the Exedy clutch? surely the OEM mazda one can't be twice as good :?:

(as it costs twice as much)

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 9:53 am

Insurgence wrote:Hmm... Would there be much difference between the OEM mazda and the Exedy clutch? surely the OEM mazda one can't be twice as good (as it costs twice as much)

The sad news is.....probably not.

To be fair. My OEM clutch latsed 192k km........but by then it was seriously toast.
The exedy has stronger springs .....so there fore grips slightly harder. Which therefore make it slip less when accelerating. To me it was defenately an upgrade. Will it last as long ?......probably

You'd probably find that the OEM Clutch would be about $250 on ther real market. However printing paint is expensive esecially when its blue & white. Even more so when the letters MAZDA comined are printed on one package is somewhat pricey.......And therefore the product becomes expensive. :roll:

CT · Postby CT » Sat Mar 31, 2007 10:16 am

Insurgence wrote:Hmm... Would there be much difference between the OEM mazda and the Exedy clutch? surely the OEM mazda one can't be twice as good (as it costs twice as much)

Well, you didn't hear it from me but Exedy makes stacks of JDM OEM factory clutches so chances are they are exactly the same. Trade price for a stock 1.8 exedy kit is around $275. The SE factory clutch is even marked exedy.

Boags · Postby **Boags** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 11:10 am

mr_rotary wrote:It just dosn't seem to grip - it's on the 'to do' list.

Try throwing a turbo at it! :roll:

Well, at least the clutch is protecting my 1.6 diff for now... :lol:

NA8 Clutch and flywheel are going in at the dodgy day coming up.

Insurgence · Postby **Insurgence** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 11:52 am

I've only started to find that my clutch slips. But only when changing gears at high rpm.

When did you decide to change your clutch? I dont want to leave it till the time when I can't get up my driveway anymore :mrgreen:

StanTheMan wrote:
Insurgence wrote:Hmm... Would there be much difference between the OEM mazda and the Exedy clutch? surely the OEM mazda one can't be twice as good (as it costs twice as much)

The sad news is.....probably not.

To be fair. My OEM clutch latsed 192k km........but by then it was seriously toast.
The exedy has stronger springs .....so there fore grips slightly harder. Which therefore make it slip less when accelerating. To me it was defenately an upgrade. Will it last as long ?......probably

You'd probably find that the OEM Clutch would be about $250 on ther real market. However printing paint is expensive esecially when its blue & white. Even more so when the letters MAZDA comined are printed on one package is somewhat pricey.......And therefore the product becomes expensive.

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 2:15 pm

mmm.....long storie.

My waterpump was leaking. My timing belt was due. and I had a shortnose crank. If i accelerated hard out of a corner..... & changed gear you could feel it slipping.....especially up an incline near my house. I could have probably dodged it for another few months. The pressure plate was on the way out as well......it was getting real hard to press in. The new cluch seemed effortless in comparison.

I changed the enging & clutch at the same time........cause i was paranoid about the short nosed crank.

if its slipping id change it sooner rather than later

ampz · Postby **ampz** » Sat Mar 31, 2007 6:58 pm

If it is just starting to slip, you can get away for a couple of months, so you can research and plan how to do things, but you will need to take it easy whilst driving (read, grandpa camry's driving techniques. That should help)

If you are doing it yourself, plan to get the flywheel machined as well, this gives the new clutch plate the best possible chance of bedding in and lasting longer. The machining is to remove hotspots which will be present on the flywheel (especially if slipping now) and have a flat face for the new clutch. This costs around $20- $50 usually from the place you source the kit from.

The way I've done my clutches in the past is, order the clutch from a supplier that can also machine the flywheel. Remove gearbox and clutch the day before i pick up the kit. Drop off the flywheel and old clutch (if you're not keeping it) in the morning, pick up the new kit and machined clutch in the afternoon (or when they tell you the flywheel is done).

You can also pick up brake cluid for the clutch reservoir there and reinstall averything when you get home. If this is your first time, expect 2-3 hrs to remove the box and a mouthfull of colourfull language as you get aquainted with the car! :lol: