Short nose crank...telltale signs? *HELP NEEDED*

[sabretooth]

YEs it assumes the key will always fall into the worn part of the keyway.

The first rotation will not be different, I just rotated a few times to be sure. Also give you a chance to stuff teh skewer back down through teh peg to retest

Yes I am king dodgy.

My soluion if I had a brone crank would eb to leave it , put a newmark on the pulley where TDC is NOW, and move teh cams a tootch to compensate.

I'll say again - Yes I am king dodgy.


Really though,m with an import 1.6 available for $500ish, I'd say agrand would get you out of it to buy and fit the new engine...

Why bother with shonky fixes.

First, congrats on a sentence with 3 "the"s and not one "teh". :p

So with your way, I guess you'd want to start with a short rotation backwards (without moving the crank/pistons), shove the skewer in while mounted on a glued peg... sounds like it would work.. but surely the piston will still reach TDC regardless of crank timing?

WARNING - DO NOT ATTACH A SOCKET TO THE PULLEY BOLT AND TURN THE ENGINE MANUALLY.

This *might* alter the torque on the crank bolt, and if it wasn't f*&ked before, it will be now.

The reading I did when I thought mine was kaput suggested that rotating the crank using that bolt was asking for trouble. I'm not sure how else you could do it though.

Boags

Yank the spark plugs first and you won't need to worry about putting too much force on the bolt - no compression = less resistance = easy to turn.

[Sean]

YEs it assumes the key will always fall into the worn part of the keyway.

The first rotation will not be different, I just rotated a few times to be sure. Also give you a chance to stuff teh skewer back down through teh peg to retest

Yes I am king dodgy.

My soluion if I had a brone crank would eb to leave it , put a newmark on the pulley where TDC is NOW, and move teh cams a tootch to compensate.

I'll say again - Yes I am king dodgy.


Really though,m with an import 1.6 available for $500ish, I'd say agrand would get you out of it to buy and fit the new engine...

Why bother with shonky fixes.

First, congrats on a sentence with 3 "the"s and not one "teh". :p

So with your way, I guess you'd want to start with a short rotation backwards (without moving the crank/pistons), shove the skewer in while mounted on a glued peg... sounds like it would work.. but surely the piston will still reach TDC regardless of crank timing?

Yes as cranking the engine you watch the ingenious glued peg/skewer combo to see where it stops coming up. If it stops and you looks down to see teh marks aligning correctly. BINGO one good keyway:D

I'm a tad worried on Boag's comments - I often crank by hand using the front nut and a large socket...

BUT, Mine's all good

[Boags]

Just passing on what I read Sean. Most people will never have the short nose problem, those that do will tell you that it was most likely caused by over torquing or under torguing that bolt...

Boags

[deez]

Good suggestions guys.

However without going through all that...if the crank is seen to be wobbling, even to the most casual observer, can that already confirm a short nose crank problem?

[Sean]

Good suggestions guys.

However without going through all that...if the crank is seen to be wobbling, even to the most casual observer, can that already confirm a short nose crank problem?

I can't comment as I've never suffered the crank woble myself.

If you ever drive in teh Newcastle area, let me know and I'll be happy to inspect it, only takes 5-10 minutes.

[sabretooth]

I've not had it happen with my short nose BP either (the Familia engine).

I think a lot of the failures can also be attributed to getting the woodruff key either upside-down, or back to front.

[Boags]

I think a lot of the failures can also be attributed to getting the woodruff key either upside-down, or back to front.

According to m.net, very few of the short nose problems are caused by this (about 1%, how they'd know baffles me, but that's what they say), the major cuase is under/over torquing.

Boags

[Sean]

I think a lot of the failures can also be attributed to getting the woodruff key either upside-down, or back to front.

According to m.net, very few of the short nose problems are caused by this (about 1%, how they'd know baffles me, but that's what they say), the major cuase is under/over torquing.

Boags

Isn't the key slightly shaped? Perhaps they examined the keys from a sample of broken ones.

[Boags]

Yes, but to get a figure of 1% they must have examined at least 100 cranks... Perhaps rooting 1.6 engines is a sport in the US?

[JBT]

...if the crank is seen to be wobbling, even to the most casual observer, can that already confirm a short nose crank problem?

Probably, but there should be some power loss associated with it too. The owner of the engine with that chewed out keyway (photo that OMY005 posted) reckoned pedestrians could accelerate faster.

I believe the problem can be either an incorrectly inserted key and/or re-using the pulley/sprocket bolt. My understanding is that the bolt thread distorts slightly to hold the applied torque and is a one use only item. If re-used, it may not hold the torque to which it has been tightened and thus allow the sprocket to move about and slowly but surely wear the keyway.

[Sean]

Yes, but to get a figure of 1% they must have examined at least 100 cranks... Perhaps rooting 1.6 engines is a sport in the US?

LOL I have a few that you can take next time you're round and start your own testing

Problem is none of them had crank failure...