NA Screamer

[Fatty]

if you want to raise the redline you can change the timing crystal in the ECU which changes the time reference that the ecu uses to judge RPM.....eg on the early 1600 cars you can change the crystal from a 4 Mega hertz chip to a 4.4 Megahertz chip.....this will raise the redline by 10% (think about it, thats nearly 8000rpm redline!!) and also lean out the mixtures by 10%.

The chips are easily available from jaycar for only a couple of bucks.

i've heard about this. it advance your timing , right? so it's kinda like manually advacing your timing to 14 degrees, but you get the added benefit of higher redline and lean mixtures.

is this dangerous at all? how much timing advance are we talking here? it sounds like a REALLY NEAT trick tho!

[fastfreddygassit]

if you want to raise the redline you can change the timing crystal in the ECU which changes the time reference that the ecu uses to judge RPM.....eg on the early 1600 cars you can change the crystal from a 4 Mega hertz chip to a 4.4 Megahertz chip.....this will raise the redline by 10% (think about it, thats nearly 8000rpm redline!!) and also lean out the mixtures by 10%.

The chips are easily available from jaycar for only a couple of bucks.

i've heard about this. it advance your timing , right? so it's kinda like manually advacing your timing to 14 degrees, but you get the added benefit of higher redline and lean mixtures.

is this dangerous at all? how much timing advance are we talking here? it sounds like a REALLY NEAT trick tho!

This is the thread that explains it all...well, most of it.
clicky here
and this is the crystal you want....and it's $3.95
clicky here
Mind you, if you stuff up, it could get pricey.
IIRC the OBDI 1.8's (93-95??) need a 8.XXXX crystal

[ZenArcher]

I think insurance really depends on where you live, age etc etc and most of all the company.

I am insured with Shannons and am already on the highest premium I can pay at age 40 and living in Canberra with a modified MX5. Which from what I gather is much cheaper than what many of you are paying and your MX's are standard. But the best thing is that Shannons told me I can do anything I want to the MX, turbo or whatever, as long as I tell them what I have done, the premium will stay at the same price and not go any higher. but all mods must be listed on the premium.

[neil d]

If you want to got NA nuts - go shopping for this......

11.1 comp pistons
40thou head shave
extensive porting - flowed 260hp
solid shim under bucket lifter conversion - custom made
~292deg cams 11mm lift
lightweight valves, retainers and springs
20thou block deck
2mm overbore
modified oil galleries
Carillo A beams
arp main and head stud, heavy duty mains caps
knife edged lightened crank
48mm quad throttles
custom short runner manifold
ECU
= 125rwkw in an early 1.8 It had potential to get up to around 130rwkw with better exhaust system but that gives you an idea of how serious you have to be.

Buy a turbo, insure with shannons and you'll be miles ahead.

I second CT

I love my race car and the engine is similar to above whcih now owes me close to $5000 You will then need in addition to the above a light fly wheel button clutch and a computer top run the thing.

Either do what Babs said and call it quits there or Turbo it.

Neil

[DOYLMX5]

wow there is a lot to take in.
That is an extensive list CT and it all sounds so good.
I know that going the N/A way is more expensive but the delivery of the power is much better right? I mean if you want the same sort of power you would need a turbo but then the time it takes to spool the turbo after 3 - 4 grand, it just seems less efficient. I am also in the 20 - 25 insurance category so Turbo insurance for me is like $1600 a year

[RaYmO]

Im enjoying this thread, lots of input from all angles...

Im even more confused as to go FI or NA now...

Might make a decision when this COW ends

[DOYLMX5]

yeah I am getting confused too. I like the idea of keeping my car n/a but I want the benefits of a turbo...



no-one has said anything about supercharging yet

[Casey]

wow there is a lot to take in.

I know that going the N/A way is more expensive but the delivery of the power is much better right?

Not really. A well sorted turbo setup will probably be a much nicer day-to-day driving proposition in terms of noise, low down torque (it has it in spades) and a smooth low idle. Probably much better at the bowser too. Modern injection helps the drivability of a wild NA setup though. Anyone who's ever dríven a carburetted PP rotary compared to an EFI one will know what I mean.

One of the reasons us SP owners rave about our cars so much is the cost of insurance compared to a modified car. My SP is cheaper to insure (full comprehensive) then it is to register. And I easily get 450 km per tank with mixed driving.

Zenarcher is right about Shannons. When a well known club member was in the planning stages of fitting his supercharger, he phoned Shannons for a quote who, instead of cutting him off like the main stream companies at the mention of a s/c, simply said "phwwoor - that'll make it go".

[CT]

wow there is a lot to take in.
That is an extensive list CT and it all sounds so good.
I know that going the N/A way is more expensive but the delivery of the power is much better right? I mean if you want the same sort of power you would need a turbo but then the time it takes to spool the turbo after 3 - 4 grand, it just seems less efficient. I am also in the 20 - 25 insurance category so Turbo insurance for me is like $1600 a year

It's not just way more expensive, it's way less reliable and would be a chore to drive on the road. Engines like these don't idle at 850rpm like a stocker - mine used to idle around 1150 and it was unhappy unless it was having it's tits rev'ed off. Go a sensible turbo if you want a sensible car.

[mr_rotary]

Im enjoying this thread, lots of input from all angles...

Im even more confused as to go FI or NA now...

Might make a decision when this COW ends

yeah I am getting confused too. I like the idea of keeping my car n/a but I want the benefits of a turbo...

no-one has said anything about supercharging yet

Off topic but if I had to spend my hard earned cash, it would be on a supercharger - refer to this post on the topic:

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=23669

[Babalouie]

Off topic but if I had to spend my hard earned cash, it would be on a supercharger - refer to this post on the topic:

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=23669

You're in good company...when we went to RS Aizawa in Yokohama, Aizawa-san showed us one of his customer cars which looked like this under the bonnet:


12.5:1 pistons, quad throttles, big lumpy cams and 215hp. He kicked it over and it idled like "blub, blub-blub, blub, blub-blub" and when he goosed the loud pedal there emitted the most lovely "braaaang!"

Just as the ground was starting to get soggy underfoot with drool, he leans to us conspiratorially and said "why not supercharge instead? Much cheaper!"

[sabretooth]

My current set-up
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n93/Doyl_mx5/Image000.jpg

Looks like your fan thermoswitch is broken.

[Techno]

Hi guys,
I was wondering everybody's thoughts on what I should do to modify my engine.

Jason

Hi Jason,
Why not start out with an intake and an exhaust system. You could spend as low as $500 for such a system. Also upgrade the suspension (Koni, Kings, front and rear braces, LSD and Whitelines for less than $4,000 and you will have a car that handles extremely well.

Or you could spend $4,500 on a base turbo with IC setup and be able to keep pace with any recent 6 cylinder Falcon or Commodore.

Just spending money on a turbo will not improve your fun or safety as much as the suspension mods.

The quads are a very expensive mod becasue you will need an ECU )or link, and the fixed length of the trumpets will have you looking for more mods real soon. I have seen a few quad mods and those with high (70rwkw) seem to have a poor torque band.

Once you start going down the FI road you will need to consider a whole lot of mods to the clutch, diff, ECU and brakes.

I enjoy driving my 1.6 with a few mods. It doen't make a lot of power (about 40% of that of the SP) but with a nice exhaust note and good suspension and LSD it is a really fun car.

Just my thoughts.

Rob

[STV]

I think i am with you Techno.

All that i have on mine is a mania intake, a timing bump, some aftermarket shocks AND Eibach springs.

I LOVE IT

it roars under acceleration (not so bad as to get noticed by the boys in blue) and handles like you wouldnt believe (even with stock sway bars and old rubber)

I toyed with the idea of either FI or more N/A mods, but thought it would start to make it more of a chore to drive rather than the pleasure it is now.

Add exhaust = loads more noise... all the time
Turbo= loads more power but lots of dosh to upgrade everything to suit
N/A screamer= unstreetable, no power under 3k and a real biarch to drive!
S/C= unsure, probably the same as turbo, expensive when you consider the diff, brakes, clutch, ECU etc

small, sensible mods for a daily driver are the way to go IMHO

STV (preparing for flaming!)

[kula]

yeah its a tough call these days....

these two things are really making me not want to turbo my car:

http://www.fuji-racing.com/fujiracing_009.htm

and

http://translate.google.com/translate?s ... emo1%2ehtm

which is the fastest MX5 in japan..

notice, no turbo.