Where to get my DFA dyno tuned, in Melb??

[Fatty]

what a f*ckstick!!

i can't believe he couldn't figure out how to use the handcontroller? it's a peice of piss. and what's this about it having no memory function?? changes are saved automotically into the memory as soon as they are made.

power delivery should be smooth, because the load points are so close together coz there is so many points. you might need to run thru your map and look for any big jumps / changes in values, and then just tweak the values around it so that the ramp up and down is smooth.

but anyway, you got more power yeah ? at least that is a good sign.

wow, i imagine you are pretty pissed off right now. i sure would be.

[Astroboysoup]

agreed that guy is a freaking retard.. i was heaps hesitant to take it to the dyno as well cos i told the guy that i had a hks vpc and a jaycar dfa and all he said was yep ok.. be about $180.. and i was like...

did you even understand wtf i just said..?

so im going to a different garage, turbo tune here in adelaide... bunch of younger blokes, good mechanics but i recon they just sit around half the time smoking .......... yeh.. anyway, im gonna talk to them sometime and try and get them to lend me their dyno for a few hours.

I wanna first tune the car by advancing the timing with the hks and the dfa on stock settings... try and get the most power out of that...

then tune the HKS VPC and try and get the best settings.

and THEN fine tune the whole thing with the DFA...

I seriously don't think that anyone out there would actually have the faintest idea how to tune a car with this sorta setup.

[green_comet]

Ouch
That's a disappointment an a half but you'll work it out.
Fatty's method seems interesting, especially if you tried it on the long ascent from Toolern Vale to Gisborne.
Moving along.....Could you clarify something for me? You said "the power curve is not smooth"

That gave me more power (82rwkw up from 74rwkw), but the power curve is not smooth at all, its all jumpy.

is that the shape on the dyno read out or a seat of the pants/driving impression?

Yeah seat of the pants its fine, i cant feel it.. But if you compare the 74kw run with +1 output, it is alot smoother than the 82kw +4 output run, which looks pretty jumpy...

But yeah i will work it all out, and probably do that tuning myself.. If you guys are going to Mossy's on sunday, i will bring the print outs of the runs.

cheers
Ryan

[Fatty]

i guess that is the thing when you are going the d.i.y route, is that you need to understand how it works yourself rather than put yourself in the hands of a knob who is just after some quick money.

i just can't beleive this guy didn't even read the instructions, and then had the audacity to just waste your time and money.

[Astroboysoup]

now when you're increasing the voltage like the tuner did for you.. aren't you tricking the ecu to thinking that there is more air flowing though than there really is.. thus it will enrich the mixture...

so what you're doing is enriching your fuel mix though out the whole load range by 0.04v

did you get a/f print outs too...

and do either of you guys know how much you can safely advance timing on a car??? I was thinking about increasing mine a little more since i can enrich the fuel a bit more.... ideas?

[Fatty]

his car is a 1.8 so the adjustments on the dfa are in reverse to our 1.6's. on a 1.6 increasing the voltage makes it leaner, but on a 1.8 increasing the voltage makes it richer.
reason for this is that the 1.6 has a flapper style afm and the 1.8 has a hotwire style afm. they work opposite to each other.

as far as timing goes, i was actually just reading about this in the miata performance handbook today. 14 is the default that most people use.
quote from book . . . . \"you can get 20% more torque at 1000rpm by increasing your base timing to 18 degrees BTDC. the extra low-end torque is useful for drivers who like to shift gear under 5000rpm. this setting will require the use of high octane fuel.
if you shift most of the time at 6500rpm or greater advance your timing to 14 degrees BTDC. this is the optimum setting for maximum peak horsepower at top rpm\"

this is quoted from the book, not my opinion.

[Boags]

Basically, goto someone who has worked with DFA's before

That is noone. It sucks that he still charged you, I'd have been pissed! What an unprofessional way to deal with customers.

Boags

[Fatty]

this might be a longshot but you could email silicon chip, jaycar and autospeed and ask them for dyno guys with dfa experience. when they were developing the kit they had it dyno tested along the way so there must be SOMEONE out there who knows the dfa.

[Astroboysoup]

hey fatty, what line am i splicing in to here for the DFA??? its a little more confusing with the HKS VPC giving input signals too...

[green_comet]

this might be a longshot but you could email silicon chip, jaycar and autospeed and ask them for dyno guys with dfa experience. when they were developing the kit they had it dyno tested along the way so there must be SOMEONE out there who knows the dfa.

Yeah i was thinking that Fatty, i might give them an email and see what they say.

[Fatty]

hey fatty, what line am i splicing in to here for the DFA??? its a little more confusing with the HKS VPC giving input signals too...

it's the red wire seen in this photo. you can see where i have cut it and attached the green wire (the one sticking up in the middle of the ecu) which goes to the output of the dfa.

i have no idea how your vpc works, but i assume that is hooked up on this wire as well. i would think you would want to put the dfa AFTER the vpc.

[Astroboysoup]

http://gc.dsm.org/faqs/VPCAFC1g2g.htm

CUT THE YELLOW WIRE!!! THE YELLOW!!

yeh i found this site that told me all i needed to know... had my first run tonight but im a little scared to tune it..

I think I might have to recalibrate it

[Fatty]

the yellow wire ?

he's talking about the yellow wire on the afc isn't he? he doesn't mention any wire colours on the ecu?

sorry it's late and i'm tired.

[green_comet]

I just noticed that my dyno test only goes upto 120kmh, should this be right?

Its says i was pulling 82rwkw at 120kmh in fourth gear. Between 110kmh and 120kmh the car starts to pull pretty hard, and then the dyno stops. Is it possible that it has a bit more power than 82rwkw, since it didnt go higher than 120kmh?

Heres a photo of the sheet.. that is with +4 output across the whole range. I think i was at about 5000rpm in fourth




Next week im going to goto a proper dyno place, there is a place in sunshine along Duke st, with a Dyno Dynamics Dyno. I think ill go down and have a chat to them..

[Astroboysoup]

yeh the yellow wire off the HKS VPC that goes to the ecu

i multimetered the input and output voltages last night and found that they were off by 1.5 volts

so thats not good... so drove ok... i just took it really easy... I think it actually bought the car back to original voltage levels.

mine atm is hovering around 2.75 volts at idle... from what you told me fatty it should be around 3-4v. so im running rich! id love to have a stock car so i can measure what stock voltages are suppose to be so i can do a comparative tune.

anyway i spent an hour or so this morning tuning the car and the DFA so that output and input voltages were the same.. the output is out by about +-0.02 and keeps jumping up and down while the input remained pretty constant. any reason for this? bad calibration?

oh and does anyone know where i can get a 0v-5v volt meter that i can install in the eyeball vent??? i'd like to keep an eye on the output voltage as well as the input voltage to the DFA.