It's almost turbo time!!!!

[Juffa]

1. A place that will create oil lines in melbourne. (any info on what others are running for there lines would be awesome too!1 )

AVO in Cheltenham is where I got my oil return line. I have the drill bit and threader for sump to match the AVO oil return if you would like to borrow it


3. If anyone has some poics of the I/C piping going past there A/C and radiator pipes that would be really helpful too!!

I have some pictures, but it is probably easier if I show you. Send me a PM if you want to see Tweety in person

Oh yeah, Please answer my poll question too! thanx

You forgot 12 pounds.....that is the maximum that the standard engine internals can handle

Ant

[Sheck]

As long as its tuned right 14 psi should be fine - if anything the life of the engine will shorten a little bit but shouldnt grenade on you unless the tune is crap - or you hit a really bad batch of fuel. Plus its a smallish turbo the vf10.

Dave

[Boags]

I said 8 PSI for the following reasons...

6 PSI will get you to SE power levels, however, you'll already have to replace the clutch so you might as well go higher until you reach the limits of other things.

At 8 PSI, treated very carefully and with a bit of luck you can get away with a 1.6 LSD. Obviously if you are unlucky or thrash it you are going to brake the 1.6, so it's up to you... You will need heavy duty clutch (or clutch from an NB) You have the fuel and control to go well higher than that though.

At 10 PSI you will blow your diff to hell if you do something silly one day like take the skyline on at the lights... You need a diff conversion to the 1.8L - around $1500 minimum with LSD. You'll need a Clutch for this obviously too.

So how much do you want to spend on other things? You will be supplying enough fuel for a sh!tload of horsies, how many do you want to rope in? Personally I think the 255L/h pump is overkill, and on the stock computer wouldn't idle (I know you are running Wolf - just saying), if you want 10 or less PSI the 190l/h pump would have been enough.

You will need a BOV also... I believe that a recirculating BOV is the only LEGAL option, although it might just be QLD, but you can get plenty of the vent to atmosphere ones on eBay. You can get a recirc BOV from a turbo RX7 for around $25, and they will work up to about 12-14PSI.

I'm not sure if the Wolf has anything integrated, but put a wideband O2 sensor on your list. These come with a digital Air/Fuel ratio readout, and are paramount for ensuring safety in your tune. Any time you get the car dynoed they will check your a/f ratios, but if something goes pearshaped in between, you will want to know about it before your engine blows up. You can get away with a decent air fuel gauge on the stock narrow band O2 sensor, but a wideband is much better.

If you haven't read this pagefrom start to finish, do it now. And then again, and again.

http://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4288

Happy boosting. I wish I was with you.

Boags

[4sfed5]

Im running a VF10 turbo and 330cc injectors and my dyno/ ECU data logs show that im at 70% duty cycle at 7000 rpm and 140RWKW and 12:1 afr, at about 7.5 psi.
the injector seem to do strange things at over 85% duty cycle so i gues the limit will be about 9-10 psi depending on your afr's at stock fuel pressures 14psi could be achievable if you use a rising rate for the fuel pressure of around 5:1.

The vf10 turbo is a fantastic turbo for te 1.6 it spools fast and just seems to make make loads of power without tapering off up top.
The mazda GTX crowd are using vf10's as a common upgrade to the vj20 turbo for pushing beyond 14 psi on thier gtx 1800's so it is perfect for the 1600. cant wait to see you results!

[Boags]

They aren't cheap Ant, at over $200... But try eBay to start with, then just google it. Try that forum I linked too. [url]miataturbo.net[/url] forumites will know online motorsport shops to get them from.

Boags

[Juffa]

If anyone has some poics of the I/C piping going past there A/C and radiator pipes that would be really helpful too!!

Ant

Tweety was overheating in the hot weather last week. I was seeing coolant temps of 108c. The dash gauge started to move at 103c. I suspect it was because the under engine try was removed for the intercooler install. I believe that the tray assists by ensuring air coming in through the intake area in the nose is moved through to the radiator. I had to hack the tray a bit to get it fit to with the intercooler hose. I will know if it worked during the next hot spell. So while re-fitting the tray I took some pics.

View from above



It is hard to see, but the pipe that runs down beside the aid cond pulley is made up of three pieces welded together. It as a flattened, oval profile which allows it to fit in the small gap.









The lower raditaor hose actually cradles the intercooler hose. I have to do something about this. Will probably get a new lower hose that allows more room for the intercooler hose, without touching.





J

[Boags]

That would be great daz 27. let us know how you go.

Another question for boags, After reading the link for the second time i am still confused as to wether or not i'll even need a wideband o2 sensor. I'll call wolf on Monday to see if i can get any more info.

Yep, best to talk to Wolf. I know the stock ecu uses the O2 sensor to tune when in closed loop, and I suppose the Wolf doesn't have a closed loop - it always runs of the maps you create. I have just hooked up a digital display to my stock narrow band O2 sensor, which is quite good actually. I'd want one just for the security... Lean + boost = ping = bang goes the engine...

Boags

[The Pupat]

You will need a BOV also... I believe that a recirculating BOV is the only LEGAL option, although it might just be QLD, but you can get plenty of the vent to atmosphere ones on eBay. You can get a recirc BOV from a turbo RX7 for around $25, and they will work up to about 12-14PSI.

I'm not sure if the Wolf has anything integrated, but put a wideband O2 sensor on your list. These come with a digital Air/Fuel ratio readout, and are paramount for ensuring safety in your tune. Any time you get the car dynoed they will check your a/f ratios, but if something goes pearshaped in between, you will want to know about it before your engine blows up. You can get away with a decent air fuel gauge on the stock narrow band O2 sensor, but a wideband is much better.

You don't need a farkin BOV, and I wouldn't worry too much about a wideband. I'm fairly certain that Wolf's can't run in closed loop so at most it would be used fo datalogging, which unless you know what you are doing is both fraught with danger and useless to most.

So just make sure you spend the money and don't get the cheapest tuner around and make sure you spell out you want reliability not power from the tune, IE 13-12 AFR and be gentle on the timing.

Of note though is the new Haltechs now have continous closed loop autotune available and a closed loop boost controller built in which is way cool for something at the lower end of the market.

[Boags]

Of note though is the new Haltechs now have continous closed loop autotune available and a closed loop boost controller built in which is way cool for something at the lower end of the market.

Autotune is available for the Emanage too... If you know where to look... Tell it to hit 12.5 air/fuel and it adds/subtracts fuel to suit.

I thought that no BOV above about 6PSI was not advised?

Boags

[Juffa]

You don't need a farkin BOV

Please explain?

[Boags]

You don't need a farkin BOV

Please explain?

Maybe he is saying they are just bling?

Boags

[Juffa]

You don't need a farkin BOV

Please explain?

Maybe he is saying they are just bling?

Boags

I would agree if it is a vent to atmosphere type, but not if its a recirculating type. They are needed to prevent damage to the turbin blades.

J

[The Pupat]

You don't need a farkin BOV

Please explain?

Maybe he is saying they are just bling?

Boags

They're an emissions control device plain and simple... though they don't control too many emissions when they are atmo venting, then they just make lots of noises.

How do you reckon they prevent damage to a turbine blade? (it would actually be the compressor blade that's neither here nor there).

[The Pupat]

Of note though is the new Haltechs now have continous closed loop autotune available and a closed loop boost controller built in which is way cool for something at the lower end of the market.

Autotune is available for the Emanage too... If you know where to look... Tell it to hit 12.5 air/fuel and it adds/subtracts fuel to suit.

That's rather nifty if it'll do that. Is it a blanket correction of can you stipulate via RPM and load points? For a piggy back it's a fairly high end feature to have.

[Boags]

Of note though is the new Haltechs now have continous closed loop autotune available and a closed loop boost controller built in which is way cool for something at the lower end of the market.

Autotune is available for the Emanage too... If you know where to look... Tell it to hit 12.5 air/fuel and it adds/subtracts fuel to suit.

That's rather nifty if it'll do that. Is it a blanket correction of can you stipulate via RPM and load points? For a piggy back it's a fairly high end feature to have.

I believe it is purely A/f based. I don't know much about, just that it has been tested on MX5s with the emanage and it works. Here is the link. It is a DIY thing, not offered by GReddy. It was developed by that guy.

Boags