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Engines, Transmissions & Final Drive questions and answers

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Matty
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Postby Matty » Thu Dec 21, 2006 1:33 pm

crank pulley wobble != damaged crank nose.

My torn down big-nose engine (interested? it's cheap...) had a wobble on the pulley, but it's due to the runout in the harmonic dampener. The rubber must have slipped. The crank and keyway are perfect.

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Re:

Postby NMX516 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:28 pm

Boags'MX5 wrote:Can someone PM me how much Jan's new engine cost please. :?

Boags


Send her a PM mate. The cost of the engine was the easy part to determine, she also bought all new gaskets, water pump etc etc...

She bought it from Richard, so he would be able to give you some idea of costs based on what he has available at the moment.
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Re:

Postby NMX516 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:30 pm

sabretooth wrote:Sorry if I gassed you with oil on the Chrissy lights run :p


I wasn't going to say anything, but now that you've mentioned it :P

It seems to be running a little rich!
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Re:

Postby NMX516 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:34 pm

Boags'MX5 wrote:Does anyone have a torque wrench which is new or has been calibrated in the last 20 years (unlike mine).

Boags


Bah, three posts in a row....

Yes, I can swing by at some stage with the torque wrench. Sat AM is out, but otherwise should be ok. just let me know roughly when you think you might need it. I've still got to try and fit in some christmas shopping :shock: :roll:
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Postby JBT » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:49 pm

Looks like we may have a busy Saturday arvo.
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JSE
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Postby JSE » Thu Dec 21, 2006 7:44 pm

Same problem I had. I replaced my engine with a long nose. Has your timing/timing belt been touched at all recently? Most mechanics/backyard mechanics don't do it properly and this leads to the stuffed short nose crank problem.
You will know that your crank is stuffed when you turn corners. If you turn a tight corner and there is a whaling, screeching sound coming from the front then bingo your crank is on the way out. At first looking from above at idle you shouldn't see it move much...the longer you leave it the worse it will become and then it will be easily seen when lookin down from the engine bay. At very high RPM (6000+) the car/engine will not sound right and it will feel as if its about to explode or as if its just about to fall right out of the bay (hard to explain but you should notice when you are driving) - the dreaded short nose problem.

As was said before - once it starts wobbling its screwed and theres no point fixing it...to much trouble and money involved. almost cheaper and easier to just drop a long nose in. Mania did mine for $1600 fully installed with a long nose (Mr_Q / Andre's old engine).

goodluck.
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Re:

Postby sabretooth » Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:14 pm

NMX516 wrote:
sabretooth wrote:Sorry if I gassed you with oil on the Chrissy lights run :p


I wasn't going to say anything, but now that you've mentioned it :P

It seems to be running a little rich!

And then I wonder HTF I melted a valve at QR running that rich.

Has to have been a bad batch of fuel

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Postby orx626 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:37 pm

Geoff, rather than just replace the early model B6 donk with another slightly newer unit, why not go a late model jap spec B6 if you want to stay 1600cc? I'm pretty sure the NB6 B6's Richard gets from time to time are pretty low km units (30,000 to 50,000km normally).

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Boags
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Postby Boags » Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:23 am

Thanks for the comments guys.

At the moment I've got some things at home which I can't afford to keep if I get a new engine... So, i'll be selling them and getting the best engine I can afford. I've heard a BP on B6 wiring and computer runs like a dream! 8)

We'll see about the engine that's in there now first, and worry about replacements later.

Sure looks like the road trip is going to be off though... :cry: :cry: :cry:
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Re:

Postby kitkat » Fri Dec 22, 2006 9:03 am

Boags'MX5 wrote:Sure looks like the road trip is going to be off though... :cry: :cry: :cry:

atleast come and do the sydney part of the drive!!!

How big is the wobble?

If its only very slight then you've still got some decent life left in it.

When ours went last year the wobble was very big, and it was like that for thousands of kms. If you havent lost any power yet then i dont think you have anything to worry about (for the time being anyway).

Its when you lose power down low (accelerating from a stop) you start to worry. IMO at that point you have between 5 - 10 thousands kms life left. (thats how it was with ours)

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Postby Garry » Fri Dec 22, 2006 9:50 am

I hope you get it sorted before your trip Boags. I know how much you were looking forward to it. :frown:
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Postby timk » Fri Dec 22, 2006 9:57 am

I only saw blue smoke, so you guys saw fuel??

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Boags
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Re:

Postby Boags » Fri Dec 22, 2006 10:29 am

saboteur wrote:I only saw blue smoke, so you guys saw fuel??


Oh yes. Big clouds of it... :lol:

Back on topic... The car turned over for about 5 seconds before starting yesterday. It has never done that before. Ever. Then it started, idled for 5 seconds and died. :frown: Same again... Then finally started and went. Then It would bog down changing from 1st to second for just a second (kind of like a stuffed lead - but the leads are 15K old) and then went ok. Then last night I tried to start the car again. Same problem as before, idle then die after a few seconds. :cry: Bugger.

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Postby kitkat » Fri Dec 22, 2006 10:42 am

Boags - if that problem is being caused by the short nose you should be able to confirm it with the following....

When the key way goes it slowly retards your timing, you can overcome it by advancing your timing.

If that does nothing and your still having problems starting your engine i would suspect something else is up.

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Re:

Postby JBT » Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:29 am

kitkat wrote:When the key way goes it slowly retards your timing, you can overcome it by advancing your timing.

But it's the retardation of the cam timing which causes the huge power loss.
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