Tips for 1st time drag racer?

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Babalouie
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Re:

Postby Babalouie » Thu Sep 21, 2006 12:44 pm

bruce wrote:Baba's in an auto - won't you need to practice shifting that (to avoid sliding it into a higher gear) ? 3 speed auto? Luce has a tacho?


Haha...yeah Luce is an auto. 2800rpm stall convertor tho, so it can stall up to 3000rpm and 8psi on the brake, so that should be plenty to get Luce's fat ass off the line, and if I have 5secs between staging and countdown that should be enough for me to spool it up. I'll have to do some practice launches tho, I haven't done any yet with the new stally.

Tranny is 4spd and 3rd gear goes to a smidge over 180kmh so I'll be pressing the "Hold" function and manually shifting. Yes there's a tacho, and its quite easy to see where 8000rpm is.

Okay, I will pump the fronts up to 45psi and the rears down to 20psi and see what happens. Dunno about taking off belts tho, after all it is a 1520kg, automatic luxury car, and it's not like I'll be breaking any records :D

Thanks for the tip on deep-staging as well, and for my first run I might take my time to suss out the traction and launch and not focus on reaction time.

One last Q: is it mandatory to drive thru the waterbath if you're not going to do a burnout? Or can you drive around it to keep the treads dry?
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Dave
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Postby Dave » Thu Sep 21, 2006 5:17 pm

Unfortunately the water seems to be compulsory... I witnessed several guys trying to tell the bloke not to hose it down, however this was seemingly incomprehensible... :roll:
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Babalouie
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Re:

Postby Babalouie » Thu Sep 21, 2006 5:21 pm

Dave wrote:Unfortunately the water seems to be compulsory... I witnessed several guys trying to tell the bloke not to hose it down, however this was seemingly incomprehensible... :roll:


Hmm...well I spose just a short bit of wheelspin should be enough to fling the water off the tyres...
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Postby rodent » Thu Sep 21, 2006 5:30 pm

Make sure you get video! :mrgreen:
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Babalouie
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Re:

Postby Babalouie » Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:52 pm

rodent wrote:Make sure you get video! :mrgreen:


Hmm....I'll see if I can borrow Justin's suction rig....altho might be the most boring 15seconds of your viewing life :)


edit: but for those 15 seconds (or more)....you're free :D
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butters

Postby butters » Fri Sep 22, 2006 11:52 am

it is possible to damage your street tyers if you drop them too much. my friend that drags his ss drops his nankangs 20 around 22 but has found it can cause them to go out of round.(damaged sidewall) i wouldn't go dropping them too much.

you should be able to drive around the water. up at willowbank that's what we do in the rex.

if you want to be a realy smart you can stage the first white light. wait for the other guy to completly stage then you can begin to stall her up and edge forward to trigger the second white. then the tree should fall fairly fast.

what ever you do, DO NOT stage the rear tyers. that makes you stick out like a total learner.

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Re:

Postby OMY005 » Fri Sep 22, 2006 11:56 am

butters wrote:what ever you do, DO NOT stage the rear tyers. that makes you stick out like a total learner.


Been there, done that. Felt like a real idiot. :oops:

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Sean
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Re: Tips for 1st time drag racer?

Postby Sean » Sun Sep 24, 2006 9:46 pm

Babalouie wrote:AFAIK the requirements for WSID are rego slip, helmet, long sleeve top/pants...and that's it, right?


Yep, they also ask that they can see teh wheel nuts on teh driving wheels, so you need to take off any covers that cover the nuts, they basically do a super quick visual inspection for safety. If the car is roadworthy, you're in.

Sheck wrote:From what i've read the burnout is very important!
Apparently its enough when you can see some descent smoke covering the entire wheel.
Thats from one of the import mags.


I disagree, I have run street tyres from $80 Bob jane specials to $300+ Advans, and neither gave better results after a big burnout.

On nasty street tyres, I always try to drive around the water.

If you're running basic garden variety street tyres I wouldn't go lower than 20psi in the rears a bit more of they have a large profile (55 or more profile), remeber street tyres are designed to have grip with pressure in them, unlike specific drag tyres that are designed to have big sidewall flex and grip... There is apicture somewhere on this forum of my car lifting up quite high in the front (but not off teh ground) this was acheived on street dríven advans at 25psi...

As Kula said, hard fron suspension, soft rear.

Remeber though that soft rear suspension and low psi in tyres + hard fronts is going to give you a fairly loose car when it changes gears, I can feel my car rock pretty hard on gear changes (although I'm manual) and things could get quite skatey in teh braking area too, it seems to run out really quick even when you're only doing 12-13 second passes, I cant imagine how hard teh 6-7-8 second cars pull up, the G force must be massive when the 'chutes open :shock:


Babalouie wrote:Cool....thanks :) But once you stage, the lights don't count down until the other guy stages, right? Is there much warning before it does?


The tree is made up of three major parts. At the top of the tree, you see two sets of double white/clear bulbs for each side of the tree (each lane). The top set is called the Pre-Stage bulbs. This is an indicator for the driver that he is approaching (and near) the starting line. The second set is called the Stage bulbs. They indicate that the driver is actually on the starting line, and presumably ready to race.

The next section is the three amber starting signals.
In wednesday Night racing, these bulbs will light in sequence, about half a second apart.

The last two lights then, of course, are the green and red lights. The green will come on after the amber bulbs if you have not left the starting line too soon. Leaving the line before the green light will result in the dreaded red light... a foul start.

The cycle goes: Amber on, delay, next bulb on. Here's the important part. The reaction timer starts when the third amber comes on.
When results speak for themselves - don't interrupt.

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Sean
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Postby Sean » Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:09 pm

Here's a pic of how the staging beams and lights work...

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My fav WSID pic - It shows what I was talking about with the pressures, the front is looking very light and the rears are full of air (about 25psi) and not having much (if any) sidewall flexingl....

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Postby Babalouie » Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:30 pm

Cheers for the tips Sean!

Ok, the Luce's booked in for a dyno session to check that everything's A-Ok, and if the AFRs are nice and safe then I'll be at WSID next Wed with a bunch of Cosmo guys.

I tried doing a few half-serious launches and if WSID is grippier than normal street tarmac, then wheelspin should hopefully not be a problem...This is kinda daunting...never done this sort of thing before :)
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Postby The Pupat » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:06 pm

http://www.willowbank-raceway.com.au/GETINV.HTM

This is for Willowbank but the parts on driving and the lights procedure would be the same for WSID.

Deep Stage is when you get only the bottom stagging light is on and not the pre-stage light.

When you're going up the line just take it slowly and keep watch for the pre stage light.

Reminds me though I gotta go out to a test and tune and see what mine will run just for sh!ts and giggles one night.
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AL
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Postby AL » Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:47 pm

Hi there Sean. Interested to know what times you were posting there. The fronts look very light indeed!
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Sean
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Re:

Postby Sean » Mon Sep 25, 2006 9:27 pm

AL wrote:Hi there Sean. Interested to know what times you were posting there. The fronts look very light indeed!


I think the best it ran that day was 13.1 or 13.2 around 100mph.
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Postby giro-pilot » Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:18 pm

i did a 16.213 at a140km no burn out did not drive in water did not let air out of tyers staned mx5 98
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rodent
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Postby rodent » Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:26 am

Weeee about time you appeared here Mr Giro Pilot :D
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