Hi all. I'm looking at getting down and dirty under the Mx this weekend. Changing front brake pads (Fs2500's) and fitting braided brake lines (from Mania). Thought I may as well also paint the front (oem) calipers for a bit of bling.
Well, I've changed pads before, but was wondering if there was any good advice out there re shortcuts/ pitfalls with the rest...?
I have hi-temp enamel spray paint for the calipers, and expect I'll need to thoroughly clean before painting. Is there a recommended solvent to use?
Are there any tricks to avoid a huge nasty puddle of brake fluid when I disconnect the brake lines? Of course I'll need to bleed the lines as well, once it's all together again, and is it true that I should switch the ignition on because of the ABS?
Expecting to pay the usual blood sacrifice (usually from the knuckles) to the great god of mechanics before the day is out ... hope it's worth it!
Brake work ... pointers?
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Before you try to remove any of the old lines, go to the Repco or something, and buy a Flare Nut Wrench of the correct diameter. It's basically a very stout ring spanner, with a little cutout for the brake line. I find it's good insurance, because if you use a normal c-spanner and strip the little hex, you're stuffed.
The way to avoid the brake fluid puddle is to use a very high tech device called an Ice Cream Container
Also you will need about 1ltr of brake fluid, since you'll be removing the lines and installing dry ones, and it'll take must more wasted fluid to get all that air out. In fact if you're willing to wait another weekend, www.speedbleeders.com are fantastic. The only foolproof way I have found to bleed the brakes by yourself, get a super firm pedal and not make a mess. Make sure you spend a bit extra for the optional bleed hose and bag. You will never spill a drop again!
Not 100% sure about the ABS tho...as for the cleaning the brake calipers, wouldn't the usual spray on Brake-Kleen products be ok?
The way to avoid the brake fluid puddle is to use a very high tech device called an Ice Cream Container
Also you will need about 1ltr of brake fluid, since you'll be removing the lines and installing dry ones, and it'll take must more wasted fluid to get all that air out. In fact if you're willing to wait another weekend, www.speedbleeders.com are fantastic. The only foolproof way I have found to bleed the brakes by yourself, get a super firm pedal and not make a mess. Make sure you spend a bit extra for the optional bleed hose and bag. You will never spill a drop again!
Not 100% sure about the ABS tho...as for the cleaning the brake calipers, wouldn't the usual spray on Brake-Kleen products be ok?
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- Mr_Q
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I used regular spray on brake cleaner and a wire brush when I did my NA6 calipers. They should come up fairly shiny.
Rather than spray mine (since I couldn't be bothered taking them off the car) I sprayed some of the brake paint into a container and brush painted it. Came up well and stayed looking good until I swapped the brakes a year later.
Rather than spray mine (since I couldn't be bothered taking them off the car) I sprayed some of the brake paint into a container and brush painted it. Came up well and stayed looking good until I swapped the brakes a year later.
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Had: Red 2004 SE, Red 1993 NA8 Clubman, Green 1991 NA6 LE
- CT
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Hi Peter
Best advice is to re-lubricate the slider pins and thoroughly clean the calipers while they are apart. Grab some high temp brake grease from repco/stupidcheap - PBR make a good one. Make sure the rubbers are not damaged when you re-assemble and only use enough lube to make it slippery, packed with too much will just squeeze it's way out.
Pretty sure for ABS bleeding, the factory manual recommends ignition on and a vacuum bleed but I always found it bleeds fine without power on.
Best advice is to re-lubricate the slider pins and thoroughly clean the calipers while they are apart. Grab some high temp brake grease from repco/stupidcheap - PBR make a good one. Make sure the rubbers are not damaged when you re-assemble and only use enough lube to make it slippery, packed with too much will just squeeze it's way out.
Pretty sure for ABS bleeding, the factory manual recommends ignition on and a vacuum bleed but I always found it bleeds fine without power on.
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Thanx all for your feedback. And here's a pointer for anyone-else doing the same. Front lines are asymmetric and unmarked as such, (as far as I could see... ) Easy enough to work out and only a minor inconvevience.
Also, is hard to keep the temps up to 21C as recommended for the paint, so it's taking fair time to dry. (Just about snowing outside in the sunny Southern Highlands.) But, initial impression is king bling! Should be ready for first outing at Wakefield Park 24 Sep ... then I'll be cursing that pesky brake dust on my shiny bits...
Also, is hard to keep the temps up to 21C as recommended for the paint, so it's taking fair time to dry. (Just about snowing outside in the sunny Southern Highlands.) But, initial impression is king bling! Should be ready for first outing at Wakefield Park 24 Sep ... then I'll be cursing that pesky brake dust on my shiny bits...
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Re:
pluto wrote:Thanx all for your feedback. And here's a pointer for anyone-else doing the same. Front lines are asymmetric and unmarked as such, (as far as I could see... ) Easy enough to work out and only a minor inconvevience.
Also, is hard to keep the temps up to 21C as recommended for the paint, so it's taking fair time to dry. (Just about snowing outside in the sunny Southern Highlands.) But, initial impression is king bling! Should be ready for first outing at Wakefield Park 24 Sep ... then I'll be cursing that pesky brake dust on my shiny bits...
so what colour you end up going any pics??
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