Oil change newbie

rodent · Postby **rodent** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 8:50 pm

It's been 6000kms since my last oil change, and I've figured now's as good a time as any to start doing them myself. Of course, I have questions that go along with it:

1) Will it drain properly if the car is up on ramps? My car is stupidly low (~305mm on drivers' side) and I'm not that flexible =P

2) What's the best way to get at the oil filter? And any tips on removing it as cleanly as possible?

3) Which grade oil to use? The sticker under the bonnet says 20W40 but the Valvoline book says 15W40

The other thing is I've suddenly developed smallish (atm) oil leak and most of it seems to be coming from the hole at the bottom of gearbox bellhousing :cry:

Mechanic says something about a \"rear main seal\" and \"cha-ching!\" but will having thicker oil minimise the leaking?

4) Anything else I should know?

jonno.

kula · Postby **kula** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:05 pm

i use ramps, it drains fine.

filter can be a bit of a pain, ive found it best going from the top down, not underneath it.

i run 10w-60:)

JBT · Postby **JBT** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:18 pm

1. You could empty the oil when the car is on ramps but you'll need to put in about 3.5 litres of oil to start it again to get off the ramps. The dipstick will be useless until the car is on the flat again. I wouldn't do it that way. I jack mine up on the driver's side so I can reach under, undo the sump plug (letting the oil drain into a pan) and then lower the car down again. Go and have a cup of coffee and come back later to jack it up and replace the plug and washer.

2. Oil filter is reasonably easy to get at from the under the intake plenum on the 1.6 but a biatch on the 1.8 engine. I usually get at mine from the right front wheel bay (after removing the wheel of course) or my arm looks like a tiger had a go at me. Use heaps of old rags or a couple of disposable nappies under the oil filter to catch any spills. Tilt the filter open end up as soon as you get it off and try to keep it that way until you get it to the oil tray.

3. I use Castrol Magnatec 10w-40 which is fine. Oil leak could also be the CAS \"O\" ring allowing oil to leak down the back of the engine and \"appear\" to be coming from the bell housing hole. Run your finger under the CAS......oily?......replace \"O\" ring. Wipe down the rear of the engine or degrease it and check after a run to find the origin of the leak(s). Thicker oil won't help.

4. Do the oil change after taking the car for a short run. Double check that you've replaced the sump plug and filter before you fill with new oil. Do not overfill. Start the engine whilst it is still warm (low idle speed) and let it idle for about 20 seconds. Switch it off, wait a minute and check the oil level. Take the car for a run and check for leaks.

Andrew · Postby **Andrew** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:27 pm

No prolems getting my filter off :mrgreen:

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rodent · Postby **rodent** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:36 pm

Thanks Kula and JBT

I've done the clean & degrease thing and triple-checked the CAS O-ring but the area directly under the CAS appears clean. There is some oil just below the head itself on both sides of the engine close to the back, which hints at a potential head gasket problem too

I'll probably change the CAS O-ring anyway, Occam's razor and all...

jonno.

Insurgence · Postby **Insurgence** » Sat Jul 15, 2006 1:23 am

http://www.miata.net/garage/oil_for_novices.html

Spranga · Postby **Spranga** » Sat Jul 15, 2006 10:59 am

It is also worth getting a $10 Mazda oil filter wrench from MX5 Mania. I got one yesterday and Simone has plenty more in stock. Apparently Mazda dealers are not interested in selling these so best to buy them direct from Mania.