Leaky..... :(

[JBT]

Second - what's the recommended way to remove and to replace the crank seal?

I think the popular way is along the lines of: drill two small holes in the seal. Put screws in the holes and then use a puller attached to the screws.

Attacking it with a screwdriver may result in a damaged crankshaft . Are you still sure it needs to be replaced?

http://www.aus-cartalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=18145&highlight=

[rhysk]

Speaking of tools to do the job - Sabre - do you have the DIY or other tool to use to hold the crank in place while reattaching the crank bolt?

What year is yours?
I just used the 5th gear and handbrake method.
While the timing belt is still on, get some liquid paper and mark a bunch of reference points. Then you can transpose them to the new belt.

Second - what's the recommended way to remove and to replace the crank seal?

Drill as JBT said. Just one hole should do - and you shouldn't need a puller - just pull on the screw. I'd still do it; it sucks to have a leaky car, plus Mazda service will do it every 100 000 and I trust their judgement.

[Uncle Arthur]

Speaking of tools to do the job - Sabre - do you have the DIY or other tool to use to hold the crank in place while reattaching the crank bolt?

What year is yours?
I just used the 5th gear and handbrake method.
While the timing belt is still on, get some liquid paper and mark a bunch of reference points. Then you can transpose them to the new belt.

I've currently got the old belt still attached to the pulleys, held with bulldog clips. I was concerned that even with 5th and handbrake, I might still turn the crank away from TDC (against the efforts of compression). I can transpose the marks, but apparently there's another way where you slide the new belt on and clip it, before removing the old one.

Second - what's the recommended way to remove and to replace the crank seal?

Drill as JBT said. Just one hole should do - and you shouldn't need a puller - just pull on the screw. I'd still do it; it sucks to have a leaky car, plus Mazda service will do it every 100 000 and I trust their judgement.[/quote]

That's what I'm thinking, and going on all the effort to pull it apart once, I would hate to have to do it all again for the sake of a seal.

[rhysk]

I've currently got the old belt still attached to the pulleys, held with bulldog clips. I was concerned that even with 5th and handbrake, I might still turn the crank away from TDC (against the efforts of compression). I can transpose the marks, but apparently there's another way where you slide the new belt on and clip it, before removing the old one.

The crank will move while tightening the bolt, but when do you need to tighten the crank bolt? By that stage, the new belt should be on the car so no harm done. Mine is a 92 so maybe yours is different?

The 'cut the belt in half' trick won't work if you are touching the water pump or crank pulley. As scary as it seems, aligning the new belt is easy, but it is nice to have the marks so you don't even need to think.

[sabretooth]

Speaking of tools to do the job - Sabre - do you have the DIY or other tool to use to hold the crank in place while reattaching the crank bolt?

No DIY tool. I’m not a tool either. :)

What I do is put everything together, handbrake on and the car in fifth and yank on the ratchet hard. While the manuals might say 150-200ft.lbs (or whatever - my torque wrench doesn't even go that high), reality is that you don't need that much. I know I've got enough torque when the handbrake + 5th gear isn't stopping the car from moving forward.

What's the liquid paper and whatnot for? I remove the belt entirely and:
1) Rotate the crank to TDC
2) Rotate the cams to as close to TDC as possible
3) Put a shifter on the flats (where it’s designed for a spanner to go) of each camshaft and move the camshafts so that they are aligned with the blacking plate that says where I and E should go. The shifter handles must overlap each other to make an X. See 4 as to why.
4) Using a quick-release C clamp, clamp the shifters together.
5) Count the teeth between the notches on the top of the camshaft pulleys. If the count is not 19, redo the alignment until there are 19.
6) Back off the tensioner pulley bolt, and slide on the new timing belt. Pull the tensioner away from the belt a little and tighten the bolt just enough to keep the tensioner from putting much tension on the belt. It may be easier to put the belt around everything except the tensioner, and then put the belt around the tensioner last.
7) At this stage, everything should be at TDC. If not, fix it until it is. :)
8) You will notice that there is a "slack" part in the belt. We want to move this slackness so that it is where the tensioner is. So, put your ratchet on the crank bolt and rotate it slowly. The slackness will move around until it is where the tensioner is – it’ll probably not even take a 1/4 turn. So, once the slack has been moved, release the bolt on the tensioner to let it push on the belt. Now do up the tensioner’s bolt to the correct torque.
9) For sanity’s sake, give the crank a few rotations until the cams are back at TDC. Count the teeth, check that no part is overly slack, and you’re done.

[jules]

Yep, I'm up for it Mikey. Have told the wife I have a prior engagement!
So, what time at your place? Actually I might just check my mobile

Are you sure you don't want to do the cam seals at the same time??


Jules

[Uncle Arthur]

Yep, I'm up for it Mikey. Have told the wife I have a prior engagement!
So, what time at your place? Actually I might just check my mobile

Are you sure you don't want to do the cam seals at the same time??


Jules

Sabre - I reworded that bit about the right tool for the job few times inmy head, but figured you'd know what I did and didn't mean

Jules - How does 10am at my place sound?

Sabre - Are you still OK for a dodgy day at my place next weekend?

JBT - do you wish to join us at your leisure on saturday afternoon?

Hegzie - might you also drop around to make some noise?

[JBT]

JBT - do you wish to join us at your leisure on saturday afternoon?

Yep, can do - about 12:30pm. You still at the same place where we did the slave cylinder? PM or email your phone number.
Is it recommended to get a new crankshaft bolt rather than use the old one?
What to bring?

[Uncle Arthur]

JBT - do you wish to join us at your leisure on saturday afternoon?

Yep, can do - about 12:30pm. You still at the same place where we did the slave cylinder? PM or email your phone number.
Is it recommended to get a new crankshaft bolt rather than use the old one?
What to bring?

JBT - 12:30 is fine. There is no recommendation in my manuals to replace crank bolt - and it is unmarked from its removal. I have all the necessary tools now, so no need as far as I can think to bring anything. We're probably doing Jules' timing belt too, so there'll be plenty to do.

I'm no longer at Newmarket - now at Fairfield (between Annerley and Yeronga). I'll PM you the address. It's up the hill towards the railway line, with a big mango tree in the front yard and a gravel driveway - but of course the MX5's in the driveway will be a solid giveaway too.

[jules]

Oh, I might look at getting some parts then!


Jules

[Uncle Arthur]

Oh, I might look at getting some parts then!


Jules

Or are we??? I got the impression yours was nearing the point of needing it done(????) so I raised it as part of the day's activities.

Parts are radily available from Repco.

[JBT]

There is no recommendation in my manuals to replace crank bolt

No probs mate. I just thought I remembered reading on the U.S. forum that it was good idea to replace it because the old bolt approaches plastic deformation on a re-install and can lead to the dreaded crankshaft nose damage problem.

[Uncle Arthur]

There is no recommendation in my manuals to replace crank bolt

No probs mate. I just thought I remembered reading on the U.S. forum that it was good idea to replace it because the old bolt approaches plastic deformation on a re-install and can lead to the dreaded crankshaft nose damage problem.

Might be an issue on the short nose - from the looks mine is the long nose.

[jules]

I was just going to have a good look at the change done first hand before deciding whether to do mine or give it to Mazda


Jules

PS: I have heard that the Mazda genuine water pump is the only way to go.

[AJ]

JBT - do you wish to join us at your leisure on saturday afternoon?

Yep, can do - about 12:30pm. You still at the same place where we did the slave cylinder? PM or email your phone number.
Is it recommended to get a new crankshaft bolt rather than use the old one?
What to bring?

JBT - 12:30 is fine. There is no recommendation in my manuals to replace crank bolt - and it is unmarked from its removal. I have all the necessary tools now, so no need as far as I can think to bring anything. We're probably doing Jules' timing belt too, so there'll be plenty to do.

I'm no longer at Newmarket - now at Fairfield (between Annerley and Yeronga). I'll PM you the address. It's up the hill towards the railway line, with a big mango tree in the front yard and a gravel driveway - but of course the MX5's in the driveway will be a solid giveaway too.

oh....not far from us either.............might drop in for a look & give unneeded advice & sh!tstir jules Unca A.......if that's ok of course