New wheel allingment Straight talk suspension
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- bigdog
- King of the kennel
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- StanTheMan
- Forum legend
- Posts: 6824
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NA6
- Location: Balgowlah
Ok after driving the car for a little while. I've decided it needs improving.
currently the stats are
front
camber 2.25 deg
toe 0
max cast.
rear
camber 2.5 deg
toe -1.5mm
the turn in is very lathargic. needs a fair bit more aggression.
how is toe out going to affect tyre wear?
I also have a NB8A fron sway....not sure what size they are but it give natural understear as the rear is standard NA6
CT sugessted 1-1.5mm out at the front.
any more creative critisim?
should i also then change the toe at the rear?
currently the stats are
front
camber 2.25 deg
toe 0
max cast.
rear
camber 2.5 deg
toe -1.5mm
the turn in is very lathargic. needs a fair bit more aggression.
how is toe out going to affect tyre wear?
I also have a NB8A fron sway....not sure what size they are but it give natural understear as the rear is standard NA6
CT sugessted 1-1.5mm out at the front.
any more creative critisim?
should i also then change the toe at the rear?
Satans Ride called F33nix the resurrected NA6
I have similar setting as you stan and I feel the turn in needs to be more aggressive:
Before:
front
camber: -1.1 deg
toe 1.5mm
max cast.
rear
camber: -1.3 deg
toe: 7.7 mm in
After:
front
camber: -1.2 deg
toe: 0
max cast.
rear
camber: -1.2 deg
toe: 1.0mm
More camber is needed, cos car mainly gets dríven on weekeneds and on track. More toe-in in the front because in the past, I felt the car can tuck in really well when I was driving hard, but now it feels a tad sluggish. Maybe it's because I have 16\" on and 0 toe just doesn't suit it, considering I had similar camber before and after.
I reckon I'll follow Charlie Brown's setting (1mm toe front, 3.4mm toe rear) with more camber (-2.0deg all round) next time.
Edit: Any good and realtively cheap place to get car alligned? I paid $77 last time to get it done, front and rear.
Before:
front
camber: -1.1 deg
toe 1.5mm
max cast.
rear
camber: -1.3 deg
toe: 7.7 mm in
After:
front
camber: -1.2 deg
toe: 0
max cast.
rear
camber: -1.2 deg
toe: 1.0mm
More camber is needed, cos car mainly gets dríven on weekeneds and on track. More toe-in in the front because in the past, I felt the car can tuck in really well when I was driving hard, but now it feels a tad sluggish. Maybe it's because I have 16\" on and 0 toe just doesn't suit it, considering I had similar camber before and after.
I reckon I'll follow Charlie Brown's setting (1mm toe front, 3.4mm toe rear) with more camber (-2.0deg all round) next time.
Edit: Any good and realtively cheap place to get car alligned? I paid $77 last time to get it done, front and rear.
- JBT
- Speed Racer
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- Vehicle: NC
- Location: Brisbane
Any good and realtively cheap place to get car alligned? I paid $77 last time to get it done, front and rear.
That's about the going rate for a 4 wheel alignment. The main thing is to make sure you take it some place where you are confident that they actually regularly calibrate their equipment as well as accurately set the alignment.
- Charlie Brown
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 2623
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 11:00 am
- Vehicle: NC
- Location: Sydney, Just out of Dragon Territory over the bridge in the "Shire"
- Contact:
Slugoid, if you have lost the turn-in response you strive for then you will need to go for a touch front toe out but that together with your proposed 2 degrees negative camber will make the car tramline and darty under brakes.
Unless you run semi track tyres like Stan or have the car lowered, I’d stay away from that much negative camber. If you are running street tyres then your current settings seem fine.
I think previously you had so much rear toe-in that the car was really dragging its arse around and therefore the front felt more responsive.
Cost wise I’m paying $88 at Spinning Wheel. You tell Stu what you want and he dials it in. If you’re not happy with the results he’ll redo them for free until you get what you want (within reason).
Unless you run semi track tyres like Stan or have the car lowered, I’d stay away from that much negative camber. If you are running street tyres then your current settings seem fine.
I think previously you had so much rear toe-in that the car was really dragging its arse around and therefore the front felt more responsive.
Cost wise I’m paying $88 at Spinning Wheel. You tell Stu what you want and he dials it in. If you’re not happy with the results he’ll redo them for free until you get what you want (within reason).
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