NA6 owners - your brakes

Mr_Q · Postby **Mr_Q** » Sun May 07, 2006 11:07 am

I did the swap to some NB8B brakes on my old 1.6. Only got one track day with it, but had no brake problems at all.

I'd suggest keeping an eye out for some cheap NA8/NB8 brakes (my Clubman brakes will be up for sale in the next few weeks

) and grab them. Much cheaper than most of the aftermarket \"big brake\" kits.

Sheck · Postby **Sheck** » Sun May 07, 2006 3:12 pm

I'm running a turbo and have only the stock brakes and (from what i can tell) stock pads, never faded before, and the only reason i cant stop faster is due to my tires letting go..
i dont know what everyone complains about with the standard braking.
If you wan tbetter feel get braided lines and better pads, and possibly a master cylinder brace, i dont see anyhting wrong with em...

I also had no problems on QR's straights, for the whole 4ish laps i got before my engine fire :mrgreen:

Multiple high speed stopping has never let me down, 10 x 120kmh plus stops in a row without fade only some stinky pads, thats pretty good in my books..

ZenArcher · Postby **ZenArcher** » Sun May 07, 2006 8:35 pm

I agree withe Sheck.

Only I have DBA slotted discs and installed some QFM pads from ACT Brakes, here in Canberra. The pads are actually quite cheap and I wasn't sure if they were any good or not, but the guy I spoke to said he would give me my money back if I didn't like them. Followed his break in procedure and after that I found that the brakes are awesome. Stops me in a a huge hurry no matter what speed, wet or dry, hot or cold. They are awesome pads.

I am going turbo in the next month and have spoken to several certified engineers (to keep the car legal and certified with turbo) about what my plans are and all have said that the brakes I have will be just fine and not to waste my money on bigger brakes. That the only things I may (at the extreme) need to do is better pads or drilled and slotted rotors, but most likely not. This was from one engineer who has turboed 3 MX5's and certified them.

Mr_Q · Postby **Mr_Q** » Sun May 07, 2006 10:12 pm

Even cheaper options.

Better pads are probably the best bet.

I'll point out that I really only went to the NB8B set as I needed new discs and rear calipers and the NB set came up cheap at the right time.

Matty · Postby **Matty** » Mon May 08, 2006 11:03 am

First question: what do you have now?
Pads?
fluid?

If you don't know, it means old, old fluid and cheap or OEM pads. Which is a bad combo for the track.

Get some good fresh DOT 4 fluid, and some semi-race pads and the OEM hardware can do remarkably well.

A DIY brace on the master cylinder is a cheap addition.

Boags · Postby **Boags** » Mon May 08, 2006 1:53 pm

I have new DBA rotors, not slotted or drilled, just replacements for the OEM ones, and TWR Lucas pads.

When i bought the car it had a brake wobble, i had to choose between standard or slotted rotors... For twice the money, you get better stopping on the track, and WAY more wear on your pads for the month or two on the road between track days. I chose standard with better pads.

No fade, no problem stopping... LOTS OF DUST :mrgreen:

and a horrible smell :lol:

What i have is perfect for what i use it for.

Boags

jules · Postby **jules** » Mon May 08, 2006 3:46 pm

Are the rears adjusted properly??

Jules

SuperMazdaKart · Postby **SuperMazdaKart** » Mon May 08, 2006 6:07 pm

would a brake bias adjuster help out much?

JBT · Postby **JBT** » Tue May 09, 2006 8:33 am

I've only got standard brakes and OEM pads. No brake fade or other problems for me at the two track days I've entered this year.

jules · Postby **jules** » Tue May 09, 2006 10:22 am

I noticed pretty obvious brake fade when I used to chase Craig through the Old Road. After putting RB74's on Malibu that stopped abruptly.

No fade ever since.

Jules

StanTheMan · Postby **StanTheMan** » Mon May 15, 2006 10:32 pm

well ....thats all great. NB brakes still feel better & stop better.
end of argument.

lusting after a set of NB8B's mmmmmmm with ABS now wouln't that be nice on an NA.

:mrgreen:

Matty · Postby **Matty** » Tue May 16, 2006 9:56 am

olihaub wrote:im looking at getting dot 5 fluid
lucas pads and slotted allround

do u guys recon dot 5 is a bit extreme or does it have any drawn backs for road use

DOT 5 (silicone based) is not compatible with DOT4 systems. Don't use it!

DOT 5.1 is OK though, but a good DOT 4 is fine (as long as you replace it often enough)

Cal · Postby **Cal** » Tue May 16, 2006 2:01 pm

NB8A Brake upgrade all round
NB8A OEM with machined slots
Braided lines
Master cylinder brace
Hawk HP+ pads
Motul DOT 5.1 fluid

This will handle many laps of QR without a drama and can lock all four wheels with Toyo R888's. The best brake upgrade you can make, is your tyres and lightening the car.

Cal.

CT · Postby CT » Tue May 16, 2006 3:21 pm

First step guys is to rebuild your calipers with new seals and new pin lube. You'll be amazed the difference it makes when they are all working properly. Very important is to make sure your pistons are not scored or rusted so they operate smoothly. Rebuild kits are cheap and it's a simple job that as great benefits.

Then put decent pads on them, IMHO, RB74s are not a decent MX5 pad, get Hawk HP+ or Ferodo DS2500s. Slotted rotors helps, but stainless lines and good fluid is your best bet. I reckon the NA8 brakes (which my race car still uses) with good pads, rotors and fluids will be adequate for 99% of cars and drivers.

Cal · Postby **Cal** » Tue May 16, 2006 3:34 pm

CT wrote:First step guys is to rebuild your calipers with new seals and new pin lube. You'll be amazed the difference it makes when they are all working properly. Very important is to make sure your pistons are not scored or rusted so they operate smoothly. Rebuild kits are cheap and it's a simple job that as great benefits.

Do you buy the rebuild kit from Mazda or non genuine? I'll do this for the race car while it's all apart.

Cal.