Anybody sell Vented Hoods in Aust?

zhenjie · Postby **zhenjie** » Wed Jan 11, 2006 10:01 pm

Looking at some cooling options for a Greddy turbo and one that was suggested was a vented hood / bonnet. Are their any suppliers in Australia?

adamjp · Postby **adamjp** » Fri Jan 13, 2006 9:19 pm

The forum sponsors have one on their web site - listed under the 'coming soon' category.

Click on the banner at the top of your screen.

zhenjie · Postby **zhenjie** » Sat Jan 14, 2006 4:53 pm

$900-$1400 *faints*. Another week of eating bread only

lowmiata · Postby **lowmiata** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:51 pm

zhenjie wrote:$900-$1400 *faints*. Another week of eating bread only

not to mention the lack of structural rigidity! which = illegalness! Imade a new word!!
CF is also illegal for steet as well but i prob don't need to tell yall that

Postby **Okibi** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:50 am

What's wrong with just adding an intercooler?

Some ceramic coating will reduce underbonnet temps.

Benny · Postby **Benny** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:33 am

I remember many years ago when I had a Commodore Turbo that you could buy vents which you just inserted into the bonnet after you've cut out the appropriate hole in the bonnet.

To me, this is the best way to go as not only is it cheap but doesn't affect the crumple rates of the bonnet and is much safer than a CF or fibreglass bonnet.

Babalouie · Postby **Babalouie** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:56 am

What about old-fashioned louvres? I dunno what they cost but I'd imagine if you punched a row of two of them it wouldn't harm the strength of the stock bonnet.

lowmiata · Postby **lowmiata** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 1:49 pm

fd3s wrote:put some washers underneath the bonnet to lift up the rear and remove the rubber - this helps especially if you have a tight budget......

This 'method' is even worse than fitting a carbon fiber bonnet!
and besides that the stud out of the bonnet is only 12mm long so you would have to extend the stud to get it to work

what happens when you have a front impact? the bonnet wont catch on the designed catches and the hinges are not sandwhiched onto the bonnet frame therefore they will just shear straight off

some cars (supras etc) especially those you see this done often too have a big catch just forward of the hinge so the bonnet grabs in the event of an accident
if they don't catch you might as well duck cause the bonnets gunna come right back at you!

then there is the legality of the rear fire wall in the engine bay being sealed to prevent an oil/lubricant spray contained in your engine bay and not up your windshield where it could cause more problems!

Sure these might be a one in a million things 'that might not' occur but it will be that one time that you wish you didn't fiddle with something you shouldn't have that gets you!

panels were designed on cars to protect the persons inside alter the hinges/catches/mechanisims or make them operate in an adverse direction than they were intended an you are affecting the whole cars' resiliance to a crash

You want holes in your bonnet the only legal way to do it is to use vents like benny sudjested ie from SSV or similar ie WRX front vents/cosworth vents/XR6/XR8 so on and not cut the structural ribbing behind the bonnet

Bevan · Postby **Bevan** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 3:17 pm

fd3s wrote:thats all true and dandy but then you shouldnt mod your car either cause sh)t happens

Yeah that happens too but LM had genuine safety concerns with his post. I personally wouldn't want a bonnet to slice my head off or deflect off the windscreen into an innocent bystander, but hey, horses for courses I suppose.

lowmiata · Postby **lowmiata** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:10 pm

fd3s wrote:the aluminium bonnet is more likely to bend before the bolts share off...

That is the design intent! but change any charachteristics and you risk changing the out come

Sean · Postby **Sean** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:31 pm

Just remove teh rubber bit ontop of the firewall - does away with pretty much all of teh problems LM points out, costs nothing, is easy to do and still keep factory appearance...

Postby **Okibi** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 12:10 pm

It helps let hot air out while the car is staging for its run (or if you were stopped at the lights).

It might make the radiator less efficient and it should suck in cooler air to the engine bay. It all depends on pressure differences; I think Autospeed did an article about this awhile ago.

CT · Postby CT » Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:16 pm

fd3s wrote:the radiators efficiency is at the front of the car......

this method is actually used by most drift cars

Actually, it's partly under the car, partly behind the radiator, partly in front of the radiator if you get my drift (poor pun!). Not to mention airflow, water capacity, thermostat, gaskets, routing of hot water etc etc. Not sure I'd be taking car setup lessons from drifters. Their cars only do short runs (albeit hard ones), have plenty of air between the car in front and the car behind (usually) which is better for airflow and aero is really just to look good.

I've scrutineered for some drift events and it's common to see batteries held in with zip ties :shock:

, seats held in with only two bolts ("cus the other didn't fit bro")...........do you get what I mean.

Postby **Okibi** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:24 pm

explorer socks on the brake/clutch fluid reservoirs a softdrink bottle for the coolant overflow

Benny · Postby **Benny** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:12 pm

The main problem with having after-market vents in your bonnet is that they allow water to drip onto your engine when raining etc.
While you're moving, it's OK, but when the car is parked it could cause some hassles. Especially if your car is turboed, and the engine and turbo are hot, pouring cold water over it is not ideal.