$25 Boost Solenoid (Bog Valve) replacement for SE
Posted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 3:23 pm
G'day,
No doubt anyone with an SE has either encountered or heard of the dreaded Bog... One cause is the 3 way solenoid that switches the Boost Sensor in and out of the MAP hose line.
The Boost Sensor is in front of the fuse box under the bonnet, it's labeled Boost for easy finding.
The solenoid is hidden under the bracket, nearer the fender. It's wires enter from the rear, the hoses from the front. Is labeled Mitsubishi.
This solenoid is known to be a PITA. It commonly fails by 100k kms. And it does so intermittently and flakey. Cleaning it can help. Tightening up the spade connectors can help. But ultimately it's a consumable part like the BOV. So, replace it.
OEM is expensive, so aftermarket is far cheaper.
Search eBay for DC12V 5.4W MAC Solenoid Valve 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA With Brass Silencer.
Concentrate the search on the part number but ensure the other values match up on the description, and don't pay over $25-35 for one...unless you like being ripped off, in which case I have some bridge shares you might be interested in.
Get the valve with the brass fittings. You won't use the barbs, they are too big for our hose, but you'll need the brass filter.
You'll also need two 1/8" NPT to 3/16 hose barbs, to match the hoses on the SE. Buy online or source locally, cost me $12 to have some odd sized ones turned down to fit but I live in BFNW... Shop around.
It's a good chance to check the hoses you've got; chances are they're getting hard or cracking. Replace as required.
Plumb the manifold house to port 2, the Boost Sensor to port 1, and the filter on port 3.
I used some RTV silicon to ensure the threads sealed without over tightening.
Remove the old solenoid valve and secure the new one under the frame with a big fat cable tie. Or get crafty and drill some mounting holes.
You'll need two 6.3mm spade terminals, male, to crimp onto the new wires. Secure them into the OEM plug with some small cable ties or heatshrink. Use a small screw driver or pick to close up the female spade connectors; they get loose with age. (Just like some old girls I know.) Polarity doesn't matter.
You're done.
From my experience, boost should now come in a little earlier and not peak as high as before. My guess is the old, failing, solenoid was causing noise on the Boost readings so over-shoot and increased lag resulted. Overall the drive is better and it's not gone into the "limp mode" like condition since doing this job. (Fuel trim figures get all screwed up until you turn off and back on the ECU.)
HTH
Cheers,
AzzA
No doubt anyone with an SE has either encountered or heard of the dreaded Bog... One cause is the 3 way solenoid that switches the Boost Sensor in and out of the MAP hose line.
The Boost Sensor is in front of the fuse box under the bonnet, it's labeled Boost for easy finding.
The solenoid is hidden under the bracket, nearer the fender. It's wires enter from the rear, the hoses from the front. Is labeled Mitsubishi.
This solenoid is known to be a PITA. It commonly fails by 100k kms. And it does so intermittently and flakey. Cleaning it can help. Tightening up the spade connectors can help. But ultimately it's a consumable part like the BOV. So, replace it.
OEM is expensive, so aftermarket is far cheaper.
Search eBay for DC12V 5.4W MAC Solenoid Valve 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA With Brass Silencer.
Concentrate the search on the part number but ensure the other values match up on the description, and don't pay over $25-35 for one...unless you like being ripped off, in which case I have some bridge shares you might be interested in.
Get the valve with the brass fittings. You won't use the barbs, they are too big for our hose, but you'll need the brass filter.
You'll also need two 1/8" NPT to 3/16 hose barbs, to match the hoses on the SE. Buy online or source locally, cost me $12 to have some odd sized ones turned down to fit but I live in BFNW... Shop around.
It's a good chance to check the hoses you've got; chances are they're getting hard or cracking. Replace as required.
Plumb the manifold house to port 2, the Boost Sensor to port 1, and the filter on port 3.
I used some RTV silicon to ensure the threads sealed without over tightening.
Remove the old solenoid valve and secure the new one under the frame with a big fat cable tie. Or get crafty and drill some mounting holes.
You'll need two 6.3mm spade terminals, male, to crimp onto the new wires. Secure them into the OEM plug with some small cable ties or heatshrink. Use a small screw driver or pick to close up the female spade connectors; they get loose with age. (Just like some old girls I know.) Polarity doesn't matter.
You're done.
From my experience, boost should now come in a little earlier and not peak as high as before. My guess is the old, failing, solenoid was causing noise on the Boost readings so over-shoot and increased lag resulted. Overall the drive is better and it's not gone into the "limp mode" like condition since doing this job. (Fuel trim figures get all screwed up until you turn off and back on the ECU.)
HTH
Cheers,
AzzA
