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So its been a year of campaigning the NB8a.
Learning heaps mechanically and driving skills along the way.
My journey was from the beginning to learn and drive confidently and then have the guts to go Turbo.
Here I am! Finally my first post in the "Turbo forced induction" room. Gathering parts atm.
Currently have.
Garrett 2560r
Deatschwerks 550cc Inj
Deatschwerks 200 fuel pump
Danns Twistmount on the way soon
Sourcing the rest.
If anyone has anything that they want to offer to sell to complete my build please contact me.
Im looking for some connecting rods atm new or used. Recommendations for cheapest Eagle Rods.
My budget didn't initially include internals of any kind. So the cheaper the better and yes I know the old saying. But if youve had experiences with a cheap set I'd be interested to know.
I have a spare block that i am pulling apart next week for a rebuild.
First attempt. Wish me luck....

Good luck

Sounds like a great journey

Good luck with build, do not forget supporting mods like brake ducts and stopping the air goind around the radiator.

I wouldn't worry about brake ducts right away, pads maybe. But if you don't have a better radiator and clutch you'd need to budget for them.

Good luck, sounds like you should have a nice 260-280whp on your hands at the end, and that'll make you smile!

Hey guys. Thanks for comments.I really appreciate it.
I have T3 dba rotors and qfm pads.
EXEDY HD clutch and lightened flywheel.
I have keeped in mind cooling so reroute, oil cooler, bonnet vents and radiator air trap support in mind.
Things halted today as discovered oil sump is weeping below the front crank!
Anyone have any good diy for dropping the sump without pulling the motor and what silicon is best without spending $200 plus on the Mazda grey goo they supply.
Cheers

When I had my sump/half moon seals replaced, the shop did it by dropping the subframe to allow clearance to access the sump in car. I've done something like this at home when changing engine mounts, but it would be tricky to do with out a hoist (I imagine) if you need enough clearance to remove the sump.

Like the American said, to drop the sump without pulling the engine you'll need to drop the entire front subframe. You'll need an engine sling or an engine crane to support the engine while you do this, as well as a decent ground clearance.

Note, if you do pull the pan, this would be an excellent time to drill and tap the oil pan for your turbo oil drain. Just cap it off until you're ready to actually use it.

I have an engine crane and can prop it up on stands.
I'm just going to need to get my head around how to do it and give it some calculated thought process as to how its done.
I'll try looking again for a good diy.
There's a first time for everything!
My sump has been drilled already and is capped off by previous engine donor.
Only question that may concern me is.
The whole is drilled a little further beck towards the back of sump.
The while sits slightly abouve the Power steering hard lines.
Is this a concern? Can I have the oil return there working as effectively. Will i have clearance issues connecting the hoses and fittjngs. Cheers
Yes long journey and lots of questions. Tha for answering my questions in advanced!!!

Most people drill it towards the front, you can see the general position in the screen freeze of that youtube clip. He did have to rotate the ps lines out of the way a little to gain access, not sure if they went back afterwards. His videos are fantastic guides by the way, I recommend viewing them.

Dropping the subframe will be a pain. You'll likely have to pull the control arms and maybe the steering rack. Oh, it'd be a good time to do motor mounts! All of those, "while I'm in there jobs"!

People drill the sump at the front as it's easier to do whilst the engine is in there.
Should be no issue if further back. If anything it enables you to keep air conditioning etc.
Re the leak, maybe a good time to pull the motor and rebuild with forged rods.
I wish i had done that before spending on tuning. If i had i could be running more boost and have more power.

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Speed, Savington from Trackspeed Engineering (builder of epic engines and distributor of monster EFR turbos) recommends drilling at the front regardless of engine in or out.

Here's a thread from MT.net with some very informative pictures.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/drilling-pan-oil-drain-picture-story-89997/

ManiacLachy wrote:Speed, Savington from Trackspeed Engineering (builder of epic engines and distributor of monster EFR turbos) recommends drilling at the front regardless of engine in or out.

Here's a thread from MT.net with some very informative pictures.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/drilling-pan-oil-drain-picture-story-89997/

Fair enough. That's about where mine is.
I didn't think that it would clear the ac bracket but the pictures prove me wrong. Thanks for providing the link

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I've never done it personally, but I'm trying to convince a friend to turbo his NB so I'll do it to his!

Hey guys. Im back after being miserably busy working on that darn sump leakage.
Ended up pulling the motor and box out and back in.
Did it over 2 days in the garage to get it ready for a track day.
Dont want to ever do that again...
Anyway she's at least at a stage I can enjoy her again...
Sometimes its just great to drive and not worry about tinkering.
3 track days since spring hit and Winton on cup day too!

So update on "Fear the force"
I have ordered the Nitro Danns Twistmount.
Bought Spartan2 Wideband with bosch sensor and generic gauge
Trackspeed 19 core oil cooler kit from the US
MS3 pro
Autometer boost and oil pressure gauges
Ebay oil and water return lines
Ebay front mount cooler

Still to buy. Everything for the engine rebuild.
Thinking Eagle rods, rings, head studs. Any recommendations and specs please..
Blow off vale. Intercooler piping.
Need to do a re route

Questions.
What do I need to control boost? Is that through ms3?
What hardware do I need?
Who can Dyno tune my ms3 in Melbourne?

Oh. Did a PB at Winton. 1:44.3

seanmx5 wrote:Hey guys. Im back after being miserably busy working on that darn sump leakage.
Ended up pulling the motor and box out and back in.
Did it over 2 days in the garage to get it ready for a track day.
Dont want to ever do that again...
Anyway she's at least at a stage I can enjoy her again...
Sometimes its just great to drive and not worry about tinkering.
3 track days since spring hit and Winton on cup day too!

So update on "Fear the force"
I have ordered the Nitro Danns Twistmount.
Bought Spartan2 Wideband with bosch sensor and generic gauge
Trackspeed 19 core oil cooler kit from the US
MS3 pro
Autometer boost and oil pressure gauges
Ebay oil and water return lines
Ebay front mount cooler

Still to buy. Everything for the engine rebuild.
Thinking Eagle rods, rings, head studs. Any recommendations and specs please..
Blow off vale. Intercooler piping.
Need to do a re route

Questions.
What do I need to control boost? Is that through ms3?
What hardware do I need?
Who can Dyno tune my ms3 in Melbourne?

Oh. Did a PB at Winton. 1:44.3

Parts list looks good. I went eagle rods, they're heavy compared to carillo. They needed a bit of balancing to get them perfect but we're within what they advertise. Arp rod bolts, head studs and bottom end bolts. Inconel hardware. Stage 8 locking hardware. Genuine mazda head gasket, or cometic. Don't cheap on fittings, endless oil weeping is very frustrating.

Hope you get your ordered twist mount faster than his absolutely wonderful customer service and excuses he showed me... oh wait that's not allowed to be mentioned on this forum

Check out mac valves for boost. Ebay or any parts supplier. Buy genuine though. I have a spare I got with a turbo if interested, pm me. (5k old). Wires into ecu or can be configured stand alone.